BRAKE LINING FOR VOLVO 19563/62 OEM System 1

BRAKE LINING FOR VOLVO 19563/62 OEM

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	1) 3 sets per carton 2) 20' container: 1000 CTNS
Delivery Detail:	15days

Specifications

1) Extremly lower noise
2) Little dust and long life
3) Stable friction coefficient
4) High quaility with guarantee

1.Specifications

Type	Brake lining
Material	Semi-metallic or non-asbestor
OEM No.	19486
Certification	ISO/TS16949
Color	Black or up to you
Asbestos	None
Noise	None
Guarentee	40,000 kms
Packing	carton package
FOB Price	USD 1.7-4.5 /pc
MOQ	100 sets
Delivery Time	30 days after order confirmation

2.Advantages

1)Stable Friction Coefficient

2)heat-resistant: Less fading and heat resistant up to 400°C

3)abrasion resistance

4)Long Service life:FF grade 35000~40000km

5)Low noise and dustproof

6)Environmental protection,green products

7)Standard:GB5763-1998

3.Promise
1)We can supply all kinds of brake pad ; this model was designed and developed as per clients' specifications and drawings or samples
2) We can currently offer over 800 moulds for different using models for Japanese, European, Korean and American brand cars and trucks with OEM services available
3)These products sell well in more than 20 countries and regions including the Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe, America and Japan
4)We assure that all the parts strictly meet the original equipment standards

BRAKE LINING FOR VOLVO 19563/62 OEM

Q: I own a honda cbf 125, my front disc brakes weren‘t sharp and it would stop a mile away if i depress the lever,. so i read somewhere online you can use sandpaper to very gently rub the disc plate to make it sharp again.i did that and still no results, so i changed the pads, and the brakes were spot on sharp! but the problem is EXTREME SQUEAKINGlike you have to let go off the handlebars and close ur ears kinda loud! i‘ve driven over 200+km on the new pads and its still not improving. my guess is i have to change the disc plate? any suggestions greatly appreciated! thanks.: I've got to ask! you do have the brake compound in contact with the disc and not the metal backing plate!, easy to get wrong , and an honest mistake!! as others said ( my point goes to them) copper grease! this is made specifically for brakes and is what should be used, no water disperal sprays or liquid oils should be used on ANY brake component Brakes should only be lubricated with either proprietry brake grease or brake fluid nothing else. And even then olny brake grease externally and no where near any braking surface. Brakes work on friction, lubricants reduce friction :-)

Q: Do you want to pull the brake?: Not necessarily, if the speed of the motorcycle in the faster, the brakes and slow down do not need to pull off the clutch, direct throttle on the brake on the line, and other speed down to a lower, if you do not want to accelerate, and then pull off the contract.

Q: I bought a used motorcycle a few months back and it now needs some fluid. The fluid is yellow-ish brown so it needs to be bled. Problem: Manual says it uses DOT 4, previous owner thinks he put in DOT 5. I've heard mixing the two can cause some serious sludge problems. How can I bleed the system if I don't know what type is currently in the bike?: Brakes are far to important to mess with. Bleed them out and replace the fluid with DOT 4 like the manual says. It is better to spend a couple extra bucks for fluid than the thousands you will spend if you fail to stop. If it was DOT 5 it is silicon based and will not react well with DOT 4. If it was DOT 5.1 it will interact fine with DOT 4. To bleed it out open the bleeder valve and pump the brakes while catching the old fluid and adding new DOT 4. If you want to go a little faster take a syringe and suck out the reservoir fluid first then add the new and start pumping until the new fluid come out the bleeder.

Q: Hi, i ride an SV650, for the first 2-3 minutes of riding i experience an extreme amount of braking, even when the clutch is in, to the point where i can't move the bike backwards unless i get off and push it, even when the bike is off, this happens especially when it is cold, it feels like something is seizing up somewhere. Any help?Edit: this also happens when i'm riding normally, the bike struggles, i can feel when it stops.: The other answers are spot on, I use WD40 on sticking callipers and works every time. Careful not to get an type of lubricant on pads or disc

Q: I rode on a motorcycle for the first time not that long ago. how do i prevent or reduce the amount that I am sliding. I tend to slide when the driver takes off and brakes. HELP!: Depends on the bike. If it's a cruiser, just have driver/owner put a sissy-bar on the bike. Then just sit back and enjoy the ride. If it's a sport bike or Standard type of motorcycle, it's a little harder. The more you ride the more you will be able to anticipate starts and stops and learn to hold on better with your legs and holding onto the drivers belt helps too. Also the type of pants you wear has some affect on this matter. Pants made of smooth or slick material can't get much of a grip on the seat. Good blue jeans may be the best but certain types of leather are good too.

Q: The Indian motorcycle models that I saw like 10 years ago were all like very classic and old style bikes but I was so surprised to see their very modern looking cruisers on their website. But I also know that both Indian and Victory are owned by Polaris.Some of the Indian models look like Victory bikes. Do they share some same base engines and parts and stuff?: The only commonality between Indian and Victory, was the 1200cc water-cooled engine, that was used both the Indian Scout and the Victory Octane. The other engines were totally different: Victory Freedom engine - 1,731cc (106ci), SOHC 50-degree V-twin, 4-valve heads, air / oil-cooled. Indian Thunderstroke engine - 1,811cc (111ci), pushrod 49-degree V-twin, 2-valve heads, air-cooled. No other components from either brand were interchangeable - the frames, transmission, wheels, electrical system, fuel system, brakes, etc. were all different. However, since the production of Victory motorcycles ceased on January 9th this year, there will be a stockpile of Victory parts, that could well find themselves appearing on forthcoming Indian models.

Q: is it the same to be on a push bike ? because i am heaver than a push bike so i am always super scared to go down hill is there any difference in a motorcycle?: No, it's not the same as a push bike. A motorbike weighs more, has suspension, better brakes, and you don't have to pedal. It will feel a lot more stable going downhill at 50mph and will cope with hitting a pothole better. Go and take a motorcycle course where they provide bikes, to see if you like it.

Q: I'm thinking about riding one in vancouver, and god knows it rains a lot there. Is it safe though? and what other gears should i wear/use/put on aside from raincoat to keep me dry? Thank you: I got this from a website. It is a short hand version of what you learn in motorcycle school. (1) Wear full protective gear, including water proof boots, full face helmet, leather jacket, gloves, etc; (2) Wear a good rain suit that is preferably designed for riding motorcycles in the rain; (3) Do not accelerate or brake fast, take it easy; (4) Leave plenty of room between you and the cars around you. Try to keep a very good distance between you and the cars or trucks in front of you because their spray will impact your visibility, and as you know on a motorcycle we do not have windshield wipers; and (5) Take turns or curves very slowly and cautiously. It only takes a split second to eat asphalt if your motorcycle looses traction and goes out from under you. Above all, do not ride beyond your comfort level. If it does not feel right, it probably is not right!

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