Disc brake for Toyota 43512-26190

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
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Product Description:

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:1) 3 sets per carton 2) 20' container: 1000 CTNS
Delivery Detail:15days

Specifications

1) Extremly lower noise
2) Little dust and long life
3) Stable friction coefficient
4) High quaility with guarantee

1.Specifications

Type

Brake lining

Material

Semi-metallic or non-asbestor

OEM No.

19486

Certification

ISO/TS16949

Color

Black or up to you

Asbestos

None

Noise

None

Guarentee

40,000 kms  

Packing

carton package

FOB Price

USD 1.7-4.5 /pc

MOQ

100 sets

Delivery Time

30 days after order confirmation

 

2.Advantages

1)Stable Friction Coefficient

2)heat-resistant: Less fading and heat resistant up to 400°C

3)abrasion resistance

4)Long Service life:FF grade 35000~40000km

5)Low noise and dustproof

6)Environmental protection,green products

7)Standard:GB5763-1998

 

 3.Promise
1)We can supply all kinds of brake pad ; this model was designed  and developed as per clients' specifications and drawings or samples
2) We can currently offer over 800 moulds for different using models for Japanese, European, Korean and American brand cars and trucks with OEM services available
3)These products sell well in more than 20 countries and regions including the Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe, America and Japan
4)We assure that all the parts strictly meet the original equipment standards

 

 

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Q:So I went to bleed my motorcycle‘s brake fluid, but the screw is stripped. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? Either 1) How to get it out without an abundant amount of tools. 2) The perfect tool to get to get it out or even 3) a place that would take it out for me (for a cost of course).Thanks in Advance!Oh and if it helps, it‘s a 1980 yamaha maxim xj650.
Q:My friend and I want to get one, but we don‘t want a really big one. I asked this before, but the question didn‘t get posted :(
Part of that will be determined by the combined weight of the two riders. Personally, I would not feel safe on the freeway with anything less than a 600cc motorcycle riding double. The bike has to be big enough to have the brakes to stop the weight, and the bike has to have enough power to allow me to move the weight out of the way when I have to.
Q:mainly riding during traffic or crowded public area?
Q:What was the first mass produced motorcycle with a disc brake?
I believe it was Honda. It was the CB-750 developed in 1966.
Q:HelloI‘ve been looking at different motorcycles and all of them, when you pull on the lever, will make a nice click. Now, I wonder, what does it mean when it doesn‘t make this click? I ask this because there‘s one bike I like and that particular bike doesn‘t do the clicking sound.
If you look under the lever you'll see the wiring for the brake light switch.
Q:I‘m looking for any recommendations of a sports bike for my mother myself. We‘ll be shopping for bikes when I get my license(8 months). I‘m about 5‘6 and about 185lbs, in no means a tiny/weak woman, and she‘s about the same. I‘m not looking for speed or lots of engine, I just want something reliable and comes recommended, same as her. But I tend to go for looks, so a sports bike is a must. I‘ve heard a mix of answers; Yamaha Honda are the most common. While for my mom, she just wants comfort and is good with traveling for her job. Nothing super expensive. Any recommendation would be SOO much help!
Have you checked insurance prices on different models? Have your Mom call her insurance company. Sportbikes and teen riders equal very expensive insurance. It sounds like you're both new riders, so I'll tell you the same thing I tell everyone, get a cheap used bike as your first bike - you'll drop it and ding it up and it won't matter. Also, after riding a few months, it'll allow you to get a much better idea of what you really want out of a bike. True sportbikes aren't really fun for commuting - like everyone else mentioned. For one thing, there's no place to stash your day clothes and shoes, and backpacks can only hold so much. A sport-touring bike would be a better all-around option and will usually have cheaper insurance rates - and usually is easily fitted with sleek-looking bags to hold your stuff. Anyway, get something like the Kawasaki Ninja 250 or 500 used and cheap, ride for a summer then start looking in the fall for what you really want. Spend all your extra cash on GOOD riding gear!
Q:bike only has 1000 miles on it and it hasnt been completely broken in. Would this problem go away in time as the brakes wear? Is there a way to adjust brakes? Bike is a harley davidson sportster hugger 883
Don't mess with it at all!!!if it only has 1000 miles, and is new, you have a 2 year warranty. Take it back and have the shop check it out. This could actaully be normal, the pads only retract away from the rotor by a few thousandths of an inch. HD's new Nissin and Brembo calipers are top notch and you should not be having problems with them with so few miles. If there truly is a problem, it will be covered under warranty unless they find it was caused by rider error or abuse.
Q:ANYONE SELLING,THIS IS MY FIRST BIKE
If you just tweaked it a bit and didn't bend anything just stand the bike upright(having a friend helps here).Straddle the front wheel to hold it in place and give the handlebars a twist to the side.Keep twisting and adjusting it til it's straight.
Q:I‘m new to ridding and have only owned a motorcycle for over a month now and been using a combination of engine braking and normal braking. I feel more comfortable normal braking and just dropping a gear or 2 if i suddenly need to pick up speed. But what is mechanically better for a motorcycle engine braking or regular braking? Which is better in the long run? Is it bad for the engine? because I would rather just buy brake pads more often if that‘s the case.P.S. The topic is about riding an engine that is already way past the break in point.
if you maintain the bike properly.oil changes etc bike will last 100,000 miles more for a bigger bike the correct way to slow down is to change gears down as you slow using the engine the brakes in unison that way you are always in the correct gear for the speed your doing if this wears the brake pads. or the clutch plates. or the engine a little more than just grabbing clutch brake changing down multiple gears to guess what the engine revs speed should be big Farking deal. you may even get an extra 5,000 miles out of the engine but getting it wrong once could cost you a lot more people been riding bikes for a lot of years they say change down use engine braking your front rear brakes Im guessing they know what there talking about on the point of braking. in an emergency stop. the front brake is the only one that will stop you in a hurry. I practice stopping using only the front brake. I can just about stand the bike on the front wheel if the rear wheel isn't touching the ground much engine braking rear brake ain't going to help stop
Q:I‘ve been looking into getting one. I also looked up the rules for scooters/mopeds in Florida, but it was a little confusing and I think the scooter I want surpassed some of the maximum requirements for being classified as a scooter/moped.
I've been looking into getting one. I also looked up the rules for scooters/mopeds in Florida, but it was a little confusing and I think the scooter I want surpassed some of the maximum requirements for being classified as a scooter/moped.

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