Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird 44060-01p91 D231-7146

Ref Price:
Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q:I replaced the front brake lever on my ‘05 CBR1000RR and bled the brake system several times. I even purchased and used a professional bleeder kit with a hand pump. The brakes continue to gradually build up pressure until the pistons on the calipers are fully expanded and won‘t retract. Even when I crack a bleeder valve to relieve pressure, they still build up pressure over time until I bleed some more fluid. What should I do?????
check rotor run out and verify that there is no junk inside the caliper piston bores
Q:My front brakes were making a squeaking noise on and off on my motorcycle so I changed the front brake pads (in which they needed to be changed bc the pads were shiny). and now they squeak and squeal even worse! High pitch noise. And I don‘t even have to be pressing on the brakes for them to squeal, I can hear it going 45 mph! What‘s going on here? Btw the rotor is smooth/no ridges. Best answer, 10 pts! Thanks
There is rather nothing you can do about it, other than preserve using. New pads squeak greater than old ones, given that they may be finding the infinitely small ridges within the discs. Ultimately, the squeaking will go away.
Q:the brakes on the newer bicycle the disk brakes do they need to be replaced or do they last forever?
hahahha sounds hilarious whatever ur imagination thinks.
Q:Suzuki motorcycle brake system is not generally there are problems?
No ah, Suzuki car I also ride a lot, not the case
Q:So I went to bleed my motorcycle‘s brake fluid, but the screw is stripped. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? Either 1) How to get it out without an abundant amount of tools. 2) The perfect tool to get to get it out or even 3) a place that would take it out for me (for a cost of course).Thanks in Advance!Oh and if it helps, it‘s a 1980 yamaha maxim xj650.
Do not ride the bike. call a local parts dealer and get a screw that fits.
Q:For sport bikes
the best clutch is BARNET!
Q:Hi. I have module 1 test coming up and have been told I should use my rear brake. Problem is I always use the front brake and have no real experience of using the back brake. Anyone got any tips on how to practice using the rear brake? Thanks
Maybe you could practice in an empty parking lot. Just start out by going about 5-10 mph and gently push the rear brake pedal with your right foot. Just keep practicing, and when you get more confident you can go a little faster.
Q:Does it matter if i extend the hydraulic brake line/hose of a motorcycle brake?? Present hose/line is about 3feet and want to get a 7feet hose? Will it affect performance? Thank you guys
Are you turning it into a chopper? As long as the hose is in good shape or is a braided steel/teflon lined line, no it won't. Both of my Kaws have a total of around 7 feet of front brake line when you add them all up. Now if the lines are old and spongy, they will swell when under pressure and reduce the braking power. Whatever you do, use manufacturered brake lines and don't go trying to fabricate your own, your life isn't worth the risk.
Q:I am still a new rider so I am getting use to all the techniques. Lets say I am on the highway and need to slow a little as there is traffic coming up. I know that I would downshift to engine brake. Lets say im entering a turn and need to slow but not stop.just slow down. They taught me in my MSF traning to use both brakes( but dont hold in the clutch) when entering a turn and then roll on the throttle. Is this right? So to slow in any instance, esp a turn I would use both brakes or maybe just the rear ( i heard its better than using the front) to just slow down? If lets say I am in first or 2nd gear already?
It depends on how much you have to slow down. If you're just slowing a little, yes you can just brake without using the clutch. But you need to slow down into a turn and accelerate out of it, and if you slow down enough, you'll be too slow for the same gear, so you'll have to shift down. It's best not to shift down in a curve. The idea is that you want to go through a curve smoothly. You're aware than when the bike is leaned over in a curve, anything abrupt can cause you to lose traction,either braking or shifting or even really hard acceleration. So you get 'set up' before you go into the curve, and this includes slowing down, picking your line, and shifting down if you need to. This way you can use the engine braking of the lower gear to slow you down into the curve, and the lower gear to accelerate out of it. Then, once out of the curve, as you speed back up to your original speed, you shift back up.
Q:Can you just hold in the clutch and brake, then downshift all the gears when your motorcycle stop?
Yes you can, and I do this quite often. When I first learned to ride a motorcycle I learned the proper way of downshifting to a stop. I suggest you learn to downshift so that you are able to slow down safely while descending steep hills. If you are on level ground in traffic, it is often better to hold the clutch and brake and save the wear and tear on your transmission. After all, brake pads are cheap, and transmissions are expensive. Use good judgement and always ease the clutch out slowly when shifting to keep even traction on the back wheel.

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