Auto Brake Pads foSemimetallic Asbestos Free for bus

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
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Product Description:

Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 

 

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

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Q:In the end is a good motorcycle? Or electric shock?
Motorcycle safety factor is higher, the electric horse's front plug and brake system quality, but off, easily lead to traffic accidents, and electric motorcycle relative to the motorcycle is more likely to be stolen.
Q:I was driving my motorcycle yesterday a car cut me off I hit my brakes went into a fishtails then flipped over bike two times I was ok I went home now next day I have severe pain in my rib area when I lift my arm it hurts or even breath heavy if I move I‘m out of breath fast what should I do
It sure sounds like you may have broken a rib or perhaps more than one. You should really see a doctor for an x-ray. If the rib(s) are displaced, they can injure or puncture a lung. Often you don't feel anything the day of the accident, as adrenaline can mask pain, but you sure feel it the next day. I'm glad you're okay otherwise; it sounds like a terrible accident.
Q:I‘m new to riding i am 16 atm and have just purchased a Yamaha YZF R125 ( which i can‘t wait to ride). So over the next few days/weeks i will be asking some nooby questions. Firstly i need to know a good, cheapish, reliable and good value for money disc brake lock ? Thanks in advance
the oxford titan disc lock is good less then ?13 get a reminder cable with it so you dont forget its on
Q:Just looking for some possible explanations for this before I bring it to a mechanic (so I don‘t get taken for a ride). I am brand new to motorcycles, and received this bike from a friend. It is in excellent condition, and runs great, except just this past week the front brakes started squeaking loudly when the brake is NOT engaged. It happens when walking with the bike, and when riding - its loud, and is not constant, but comes in a 1-2 second on/off patten. It seems to lessen when I brake. Some friends suggested its a brake warning detector, but that seems like it would engage when the brakes are applied. Any help would be appreciated.Thanks.
I think you should look to the wheel bearings. Get a floor jack and put it under the frame on the right side, a little in front of where the side stand bracket (on the left side) is. You can lift the front wheel off the ground, this way, the bike will rest on the the jack, the side stand and the rear wheel. Spin the front wheel and determine where the noise is coming from, I'd bet on a worn out wheel bearing but you can determine if its brake related. If the wheel bearing is gone you can probably wiggle the wheel on the axle. If you remove the wheel you can stick your finger in the wheel bearing and determine for sure if it's worn out, or not. Find an owners or service manual for your bike You may be able to down-load one, free. Good luck. Any maintenance or repair you can do yourself means more money to spend on gasoline and women.
Q:When riding my motorcycle, I usually will slow down using the front and rear brakes, and by downshifting through each gear. I do this in traffic so if a light turns green suddenly I will still be in a gear to accelerate.If I am on an open road and want to stop, can I just pull the clutch lever in and coast instead of downshifting (while using the brakes of course)? Would this damage the clutch at all? I‘ve heard it damages car manuals but I want to see what a motorcycle would be like.
It might not hurt it - but it wont be GOOD for it. you don't say what kind of bike you have - most modern bikes have clutches that run in the engine oil bath (exceptions - Ducati - most BMW - dry clutches). When you coast - engine at idle and say 70 mph in high gear the differential in clutch plate speed may be about 3-400 rpm. The oil film between the plates will be shearing and getting hot due to the different clutch plate speeds. Might just tend to burn and shear down your oil as much as anything. If you want to coast - try nudging the gear lever down into neutral between gears - and then let the clutch out. DO NOT shift down into 1st gear at 60-70 mph or you might blow the clutch plates - because they go up to high rpm.
Q:Hey! I‘m about to get my A2 motorcycle license and i don‘t know what motorcycle should i buy. I have to say that i‘m looking forward a 400cc-500cc, it must be a sport bike and fun to ride. Would you guys give me some sugestions?
A2 motorcycle license means you're restricted to a maximum power of 46.6BHP. A motorcycle can be restricted to this amount, as long as it doesn't have over 93BHP in a standard / original state. The Honda VFR400 was my first 'big bike' on the A2 license. I can honestly say it was an amazing bike, and I would always get compliments about it from other bikers. Mine was an NC24 model (1987), picked it up for about ?995 in great condition. It has a V4 engine, which means loads of torque and with an after-market end can (Silencer) on it kinda sounds like a nascar. It never gave me one problem, and it had about 33k miles on it. It was an import, like most of the 400cc sports bikes are. I regret selling it though, it was a good bike for its age. Performance wise, it was great - 0-60mph in about 4 seconds and a top speed or 130mph or so. Plenty fast enough for general road use. It was also great on fuel, around 50mpg. The more modern VFR from the NC24 is the NC30 which has twin lights, it's perhaps a better choice because of it's newer suspension and brakes etc. It will cost you a bit more though. There's also the Kawasaki ZXR400, which is also a great bike and looks fantastic in my opinion. It has the old school green and white paint scheme, looks good. It's an inline 4 and likes to be revved. I have not owned one personally, but I hear it's a pretty decent bike for its engine size. I think either of these bikes will make a good choice for you. They offer plenty of power for the road, and you wont get bored fast. They're both light-weight machines, have great handling and corner like they're on rails. The bikes I have mentioned will need restricting though, but I imagine that the restriction wont effect them much.
Q:Or do they purchase some of the components from other manufacturers? If they do buy some parts from other manufacturers, which parts and from which companies?
If you eat a well balanced diet with lots of fruit and veg then you'll be fine. Foods which are high in iron include: Leafy green vegetables (spinach, broccoli, peas, kale, sprouts, etc) Beans (baked beans, pinto beans, kidneap beans, etc) Chickpeas Lentil Nuts (walnuts, cashew nuts, etc) Breakfast cereals Foods which have been fortified with iron - soy products, tofu, bottled water. Dried fruits such as apricots Consuming foods which are HIGH in vitamin C helps iron absorbtion which is probably where the orange juice thing came from. Eating peppers, tomatoes, kiwi fruit, etc whilst also eating any of the high iron foods WILL help the absorbtion. Drinking any kind of fruit juice too - not just orange juice. I wouldn't recommend taking iron supplements either unless you're really low in iron. Taking them whilst not actually low in iron can actually have reverse effects.
Q:what things should look for in when looking to buy a motorcycle?
A Snell-Foundation helmet, a good health and life insurance policy, and a will. Other than that, if it's your first bike don't buy anything extreme. Comfort is king on long rides. generally see how you fit on the bike. Sit on it with the kickstand up and see if you are comfortable with its center of gravity. Screw the cool factor.buying a bike is a really personal thing, and you should check out several different ones before you decide. Edit: I rode for 20 years without getting hurt, but it was because of safety gear that I didn't. The reason you are getting so much static about bikes being dangerous is that things on a bike happen in an instant, and stuff that you would hardly notice (like a tire tread in you path, or a deer) in a car can be devastating to a biker.
Q:Such as: Motorcycle Fairings, Motorcycle Windscreen/ Motorcycle Windshields, Motorcycle Brake Disc/ Motorcycle Brakes, Motorcycle Speedometer, LED Motorcycle/Car Lights.
Q:i have a motorcycle i jut bought. i noticed that i do have a front disc brake and no rear disc brake. though i should say that having a rear disc brake for me is more of an eye-candy. should i have a rear disc brake added to my motorcycle? what are the advantages and disadvantages of it?
Would probably cost more than you paid for the bike to have this done properly. I've owned 14 bikes, at least half had rear drum brakes, some had front and rear drum brakes. They all performed very nicely. I'm sure a front drum would suck on my VFR but it worked just fine on my old Triumph and my first BMW. Your bike is engineered to do what it is supposed to do. Put as much worry into proper maintenance and you will do just fine.

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