100% Asbestos-Free Car Brake Pads for Toyota Prado

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100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
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Product Description:

Auto parts: 

brake pads


Front Axle














Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:



Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .


    Crossing Reference Number




























































1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified


1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.





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Q:is there a high demand for this type of job?
Most of the sites that have career info report motorcycle mechanics average about 30k per year, which is sad. Not to mention, low to no benefits (IE health, vacation, retirement), and the high turn-over rate in most shops. I had always considered it a pisser that after attending school $$$, buying tools $$$, and being liable for peoples safety (brake jobs) the salesman in the front (air conditioned ) room, wearing clean white shirts, with a pen and pencil for tools, will make more money. Trust me on this, there are better careers out there to choose from, like oh, just about anything else.
Q:motorcycle brakes
No offense dead 7, but you've missed a couple of things. First of all, rear brakes or drum brakes are not necessarily more powerful than a front brake or disc brake. It all comes down to the friction area between the pad or shoe and the drum or disc and the pressure applied to the shoe or pad, either mechanical (rod and lever) or hydraulic (pressurized fluid). Any brake that will lock up the wheel, front or rear, is powerful enough and it doesn't matter whether it's disc or drum. Often times, disc brakes are easier to modulate and resistance applied is more or less linear. In the not so good old days, some times drum brakes had a bad habit of doing a little braking and then suddenly doing too much, producing a eye widening experience. Front end dive has little if anything to do with how powerful the front or rear brake is. When you apply the brake at either end, weight is shifted forward, compressing the front springs. The spring resistance, thickness of shock oil, anti dive features and shaft or chain drive all have an effect on the amount of dive. The biggest difference between drums and discs is fade resistance. When you apply the brakes, friction heats everything up. With a drum, the heat makes the drum bigger in diameter and if hot enough, it's so large that the shoes can't make firm contact with surface. The design differences in discs prevents this from happening. However, discs can fade when enough heat causes the brake fluid to boil, producing a compressable gas. Riding the brakes lightly for long periods of time will cause brake fade more than will short periods of hard application. The main reason drum brakes are still used is cost. They are cheaper to manufacture than are disc systems. THAT'S the main reason drums are still used.
Q:I need to install a mechanical NOT a hydraulic brake switch onto my motorcycle. The bike is a 1978 Suzuki DR 370 enduro. The tail light bulb contains 2 filaments but I only get 2 wires coming out of the back of the tail light. I was told one wire for each filament and it grounds itself. hence why I‘m not seeing 4 wires. Anyway the main problem I am having is I‘m not able to find any mechanical brake switches to rig up to it. I keep finding hydraulic ones which I can‘t use. Been to numerous shops and researched online to no avail. I don‘t mind modifying an aftermarket switch if need be, because finding stock parts seems impossible and expensive anyway. I‘m sure ill figure out how to wire it in when I get a switch that will work but if anyone could tell me how that would be great too.
A generic replacement brake light switch is something you used to see all the time in bike shops. There are still plenty of bikes that use them, so you ought to be able to get a replacement switch for any bike that does and adapt it to your use.
Q:HelloI‘ve been looking at different motorcycles and all of them, when you pull on the lever, will make a nice click. Now, I wonder, what does it mean when it doesn‘t make this click? I ask this because there‘s one bike I like and that particular bike doesn‘t do the clicking sound.
If you look under the lever you'll see the wiring for the brake light switch.
Q:Looking at the BMW 2009 X-country. One is brand new for $7000 (out the door), and has 3 year manufacturer warranty. The other is used, has 5000 miles on it and offered for $5000. 8 months warranty left on it. The used one cheaper and if I need to sell I won‘t lose a lot. The new one, well it‘s shiny and new! I just can‘t decide It‘s not going to be my first motorcycle. Thanks!
Q:I have a Honda 83 nighthawk 650 with duel front brakes. The brakes keep locking up on rides. If I crack the line at the master cylinder the calipers relaese. I have rebuilt the master cylinder with a kit I bought from my local Honda power sports shop. Replaced brake lines and line hardware. Just took appart my calipers and cleaned pistons replaced seals for piston. Brakes just locked up agian and I don't know where to go from here
Air or water interior the brake line might want to teach itself as a softness on the brake lever, requiring countless pumps previously the brakes paintings. Air (and to a lesser volume water) will compress while brake fluid, like each and every hydraulic fluids, does not compress. notwithstanding the indicators you describe look the different. in my view i might want to eliminate the caliper from the fork leg, take out the pads and positioned a timber lath of their position (to give up the pistons popping out thoroughly) and then pump out the pistons (use a G clamp to give up one if it strikes a lot less annoying than the different) – search for any airborne dirt and mud or gunge on the piston sides. i trust that that is your issue. If there is airborne dirt and mud you could sparkling the perimeters of the pistons (with seize and brake cleanser and a rag – no abrasives) for a non everlasting answer – ideally you should empty the device and take out the pistons and fully service the calipers – replace seals and bleed nipple, flush the device with methylated spirits to sparkling it and enable it dry. once think with reference to the brake fluid replaced you would possibly want to besides have this service achieved mutually. also research the lubrication on the draw close cylinder and lever – there could be a blob of grease and it makes a most suitable massive difference to the action of the lever. EDIT: btw the hot pads will take the time to mattress in, 50 odd miles, so is truly not as effective till then – and ensure the compound is actual for the bike, do not be tempted to apply “race” compounds as you'll by no potential get them warm sufficient to apply.
Q:How do you perform compression braking?This is what I do:I close the throtle all the way.I downshift.I release the clutch.I apply both brakes. And I come to a stop with a weired shake.some say I have to downshift and while the clutch is pulled in I have to apply both brakes. Is it wrong to downshift and apply both brakes all at the same time. Or is what i‘m doing correct?
you already asked this question in another category. duh, it's been well answered.
Q:what are sintered brake pads?
Sintered means produced from powder. These brake pads are a powder that has been glued together from a powdered base. Good or bad it is just a method of production.
Q:I am 17. I drive a stock Honda CBR600RR and its is great 2011 model. I was riding with some guys and one guy had a respol or ABS CBR600RR bike, i didnt know what that meant. He said it was tunes up. Now i now the regular amount about motorcycles, i love them and ride my cbr winter snow rain hot cold slippery dry evry day all year, i know im crazy but hey. And when i rode his bike it was so much like undescribable. Better braking better handeling same model bike? SO i never got his number. I was wondering what type of mods can i put on my bike to improve performance. And where can i buy them or look at em? Thanks!
kn air filter, front and rear sprockets, and power commander
Q:how do I replace the front and rear brake pads on a yahama v star motorcycle?
I really can't be stuffed typing that much information. If you don't get an adequate answer, then contact me, through my page, and i'll talk you through it.

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