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FAQ

1 explain the difference btween a conductor and an insulator in terms of the transfer of electrons. Why are problems with static electricity common in winter than at other times of the year? How could any of these problems be reduced?Why is cleaning dusting more difficult in winter?List at least 2 reason why you think plastic materials are used to cover the copper wires in electrical equipment.

1. In a conductor, electrons transfer easily from atom to atom. In an insulator, it is extremely hard to cause electrons to shift atom to atom. (edit) This means an electrical current cannot flow in an insulator, as electrons must move in a conductor. (end edit). 2. In winter, the air contains less moisture. Therefore static charges will not dissipate as quickly as they will in moist air, and are more easily generated. 3. For the above reason, moving dust particals can easily induce a charge in them, which will be of opposite polarity to the surface. They can be attracted back to the surface. Using a slightly moist cloth can help when dusting in winter. 4. Plastics etc. are electrical insulators. Plastic insulation is very easy to apply to a conductor by extrusion around the conductor, in a plastic extrusion machine. The material is heated to a suitable plastic constituency. Plastic insulations are NOT used in extreme heat or cold situations for conductors. If you live in the US, you will see lots of rubber insulated power leads, as plastics can get more brittle and fracture in cold conditions. Plasticity is the state between solid and liquid, which is where all plastics are worked. In fact, many materials other than plastics can be worked in a plastic state, even metals!

can an odd electrical field produce a link with the energy of those said to be at rest?can a electrical field be contained a directed within ones body.have you ever experienced truelly odd static or electrical fenomena around you?

Yes We are energy Every animal, plant and object is made of energy.

At around 11:30PM on January 23rd, 2007 as I was typing on my PC the lights began to flicker and my computer began turning on and off. The lights then became extremely bright followed by a booms outside then the lights dimmed so low it looked as if they were about to burn out. The house phone was on began to cut out and made a loud screeching sound and thensilence.These strange events lasted for nearly 15 minutes when a knock at the front door got my attention. It was a fireman informing me to shut off my computer if I had one because of electrical problems that were occurring in the area. I immediately did so.It was not until the morning I discovered that my two TV's, all three cordless phones, a microwave, two alarm clocks, my entire computer, VCR/DVD, DVR/Cable Box had all been destroyed due to the massive power surge they endured. After surveying each and every unit I learned that all appliances in every apartment was damaged or destroyed.Who is to blame for this?

In many states, the local electrical utility is responsible for delivering proper power to their customers and when they don't, they can be required to replace any damaged equipment. They get to sue people who cause them problems (like an accident that damages their equipment, which then damaged your equipment). You should contact your local utility to see if they will voluntarily replace your losses, and if not, then contact your state power utility regulators to see if they can be compelled to. You, as a public utilities customer, should not be not required to foresee all of the possible power problems that might occur -- that's the utility's job. You probably ought to get a copy of any police or fire report of the incident that led to the fireman knocking on your door. That would probably help your case when you file a claim with the utility or state regulators.

I received a piece of electrical equipment from China which has a power lead with it. It originally had a 2-pin plug which I have stripped to rewire into a 3-pin UK plug but the wires are blue, black and brown! I am confused now as I thought either blue/black could be neutral or black/brown could be live. Didn't expect blue, black and brown in same wire.

Connect to Live (brown wire) and Neutral (blue wire). Leave the Earth pin in place but unconnected. Make sure that the plug has a 5 Amp fuse in it (these usually have a blue coloured body, 13A fuses are brown). If the wires are not blue and brown then you must make sure that the voltage is correct. UK mains is nominally 230 Volts, the same as the rest of Europe. Blue and brown are the standard European colours for mains wiring. If the razor is non-European then it may be designed for 110 Volts and will be destroyed when you plug it in. If this razor is an old British one it may have red and black wires. These colours have not been used for appliances since about 1968 and so the device will be very old and may be unsafe.

For instance, could you use normal 14/2 building wire normally used in houses for 115 volt AC lights and outlets and run DC through it provided that the voltage and current does not exceed 120 volts and 15 amps?Could you use normal in-wall light switches in the same way as long as the DC volts and amps does not exceed the AC rating?

They typically need to be derated signficantly for DC. By how much depends on the device - you need to consult the relevant data sheet. To give you some idea, I have some small toggle switches here that are rated for 1A @ 125V AC but only 1A @ 30V DC. That is not at all untypical.

I'm about to take an automotive electronics class at college but I'm just curious, what are the basics? Say I want to wire a police scanner or some type of lightbar into my car's electrical system. What would this entail? I'd have to pull away body panels, run wire, and hook it into the battery? What about fuses, safeties, etc And also how could I hook my police scanner into my speaker's system?

Fuse blocks in cars often have SPARE (usually disused in some particular model) positions with wires already attached and within the wiring loom, with nothing connected to the end. Knowing what the intended accessory was, might allow you to connect something to its unconnected end, and always, the negative return is the car's frame. The circuit must be capable of carrying the current required. Some of these spares may be connected via the ignition switch, some may not. The next alternative is to run a new wire with a fuse inline, at the supply end at least. It is good practice to fuse the supply end, then have a further fuse at the accessory end (most accessories will already have this). The wire can often be run along and fixed to the existing car looms, passing through the firewall where the loom passes through. Again, negative is anywhere convenient on the car's metal frame. A quick and simple connection is the cigarette lighter, if fitted. Just procure a plug to replace the lighter. It can supply a fair current. So far as connecting a scanner to the existing speakers, I suggest you don't try to, unless the audio/ radio system has an accessory input. Maybe a bluetooth connection might be used, but really, the scanner's own speaker should supply the scanner sound. You can also connect accessories by splicing into existing car circuits, but I would suggest you do your college course first! You really need to understand current and wire sizes and fusing (not to mention basic circuitry!), before splicing into existing wires.

I just recently bought a router that was recommended to me, Linksys WRT160N V3. I followed all the steps to connect and it works. the problem is (and i measured) i walked 34 3/16 feet away into my room and boom. no connection, and my laptop, nor my ps3 can find the router. the only thing in the way of my router and my equipment is 2 walls and a bathroom (yes a small apartment). did i buy a crappy router or is there a way to increase the range for this particular model, because i feel like i got ripped off. thanks for the help.Also i was thinking of maybe getting netgear instead, everyone else seems to think it's good i just don't have the cash. thanks for the help.

Drill a big hole on your wall. Get a metal/magnet detector. Scan it on your wall and next to your router. There might be some kind of object inside the wall interfering with your router.

???

Both the previous contributors have given good advice. I think they are good enough. You can make lot of noise, but be careful nobody should get annoyed.