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Hi, i have one question i'm would like to sell my computer (tower) on OKorder but i don't know the value of my system, it was a gift from my sister about a year ago. Here is my system specs:Black gaming case with red neon light insideAmd x2 3800+ 2.0ghz.2GB of Ram ddr2 667mhz.Asus m2n-e motherboard.Visiontek Hd 2600 pro 512MB ddr2 supports direct x10.Western Digital 160 GB sata hard drive with Vista ultimate.Pci firewire card 2 ports.Any Help will be appreciatedthanks.
Yeah, I would be surprised to see it sell for more than 400 on OKorder.
I payed the bill and put in the shutoff notice for the 18th, not the 16th! Jesus Christ! I still have shite I have to move!
Look at the money you're saving. 0_o
Hello all!I know this is a crazy ideaBut I wanna try and build a mini automobile where a person could travel here and there :D I've already planned this but what are the basic requirements I need to engage in this project? I mean apart from the basic structure of the system, what are the main electronic devices and mechanical equipment I need to engage in this? I haven't done anything like this before but I think I have adequate experience. If someone could explain the basic concepts to build a mini automobile with the requirements I would be very grateful :)Thank you
i'll tell you my Electrical point of view, you need to calculate the maximum load, and speed and choose the rating of the DC motor, and of course you need to design a driving circuit to control the speed of the motor, u need a gear to reduce the speed of the motor and get higher torque, that's so difficult for you look for something easier :P
I have a 2000 Monte Carlo SS that is stock, as in no aftermarket radio/electrical equipment and the fuse for the a/c and cruise. I noticed it popped when I bought the car and each time i put the same size fuse in or a bigger one, it automatically pops. I pulled the dash apart and all of the connections are good so I'm not sure of where to go.
The fuse is a safety mechanism it will burn or pop as you say before damage can occur to the electronic component if it continually pops/ burns out that usually means there is a short in the wiring or on the part itself. Electrical problems can be a real pain in the a$$, even if you are experienced. So if you are not mechanically inclined I suggest not to try to track this problem down by yourself.
At around 11:30PM on January 23rd, 2007 as I was typing on my PC the lights began to flicker and my computer began turning on and off. The lights then became extremely bright followed by a booms outside then the lights dimmed so low it looked as if they were about to burn out. The house phone was on began to cut out and made a loud screeching sound and thensilence.These strange events lasted for nearly 15 minutes when a knock at the front door got my attention. It was a fireman informing me to shut off my computer if I had one because of electrical problems that were occurring in the area. I immediately did so.It was not until the morning I discovered that my two TV's, all three cordless phones, a microwave, two alarm clocks, my entire computer, VCR/DVD, DVR/Cable Box had all been destroyed due to the massive power surge they endured. After surveying each and every unit I learned that all appliances in every apartment was damaged or destroyed.Who is to blame for this?
In many states, the local electrical utility is responsible for delivering proper power to their customers and when they don't, they can be required to replace any damaged equipment. They get to sue people who cause them problems (like an accident that damages their equipment, which then damaged your equipment). You should contact your local utility to see if they will voluntarily replace your losses, and if not, then contact your state power utility regulators to see if they can be compelled to. You, as a public utilities customer, should not be not required to foresee all of the possible power problems that might occur -- that's the utility's job. You probably ought to get a copy of any police or fire report of the incident that led to the fireman knocking on your door. That would probably help your case when you file a claim with the utility or state regulators.
i want to know about latest technical electrical machine used in ship's during sailing.Eigther it may be electricity generator or any other equipment.
the newest state of the rt electrical systems on large ships are 'podded propulsion; instead of turbines turning propellor shafts, generators supply electricity to motors that are placed in pods outside the ship, under the hull which turn the propellors.go look up 'Queen Mary 2' on the web for details.
I seem to have an adverse affect on computers and electrical equipment. My sheer presence seems to upset them.I'm not a stranger to technology, so it's not me being dim, but more and more often I've crashed supermarket checkouts, I was even sent to the other side of a store by my husband because the computer our details were being loaded on crashed time after time. I walked away and all was well in the world (well the store anyway). My laptop (even with the latest updates) has a mind of it's own sometimes. Coincidence or am I electrically overcharged?
its not only you, it happens to me too, i guess it is something to do with electron
I have a sprinter van. Need to be able to power 4300 watts worth of electrical equipment. Like power conversion alternator etc What would i need to do. the equipment. cost etc.
Are you trying to power 120 Volt or 12 Volt electrical equipment? Either way you're looking at nearly 400 amps of additional load on the vehicle and that's a waaaay lot. If your equipment is 120 volt it would be much easier and cheaper to install a generator. Some generators even have regulated outputs that are very precise and surge-protected for sensitive equipment. If your equipment is 12 volt (such as a rack of amplifiers) then you're looking at adding a couple (or more) alternators and may need custom bracketry and fanbelts to drive them. I was at a car stereo competition years ago and there were vehicles with up to 6 alternators. The problem you will find is alternators are rated at their maximum output, not what they put out at idle. Even a 230 amp alternator may put out less than 100 amps at idle. Look for alternators built specifically for use while idling if this is your situation - either industrial vehicles or special alternators designed for stereo competition with high output at low rpms. If I was you I would research what types of industrial uses the Sprinter has been modified for and some of them may have already solved the very problem you're having.