Q:What is the difference between woven carpets and hand made carpets?

Look at the back of the carpet. Hand woven carpet can be seen on the back of a set of buttons, and woven carpet is not visible on these buttons.

Q:Well ,I am staying in san jose.I wanted to buy a 5'x 8' rug for my living room.My budget is $130 -$180.I'm looking for easy maintainance,good looking,easy cleaning.Also,when i sit on rug,the rug should not go down for 1 inch- 2inch1 uld u suggest where to buy in bay area.Can i buy JC Penny.?2.Also,what type of material should i buy?3.What are all the factors should i think in mind before buying it?Thanks

you okorder . you get and idea os styles out there. pls keep in mind any photo will not give any idea what the rug will actually look like on your floor. Many rugs have a cat surface such that they have a different shade looking from the two ends. So look for that if the rug has it or not. The two shades can be dramatically different. This is especially true for hand-knotted rugs, which you are not buying now but maybe in future. IKEA and JCPenney would be good. Discount flooring stores may have a bigger selection. Macy's and furniture stores nylon is the best for easy maintenance. Look for the size and the lenght of the fibers - when you bend a corner down towards the underside, the rolled edge should have a fairly thick set of fibers sticking out - if not the rug will not hold up under traffic. You can learn more about rugs on these website. A decent nylon rug with a spot-hiding pattern usually will last for as long as your upholstered furniture.

Q:I am remodeling a room and I'm not sure if I should put in the baseboard or the carpet first. Also, if the baseboard is first how much of a clearance does the carpet need to get tucked under?

If you already have the baseboard off have the carpet installed and then put the baseboard on. This way your baseboard wont get hit when they attach the carpet to the tack strips.

Q:Are rugs supposed to more or less engulf a room and be under the legs of your furniture (in our case that would be the 8X10), or are they used more as accents rugs in front of couches and chairs, not actually touching the furniture but filling the empty space....hence the 5X8?Or are there no rules and anything goes in the world of rugs?Also, any suggestions for selecting a pattern are welcome. Our chairs are neutral, but the couch has a strong leaf with some floral pattern to it, and in addition to struggling with size and colors to match it, we're also having problems with pattern on pattern. I suppose the safest thing to do would be just to forget rugs, since we seem to be challenged in this area - but the floor desperately needs something and the room needs a punch of color to balance it. Thanks for your help!

The whole point of using area rugs (other than the warm fuzzy feel under your feet) is to define an area. If you're using a rug in a dining room, you want it to be large enough so that the table and all of the chairs fit comfortably on the rug, even when the chairs are pulled out. If you're using a rug to define a conversation area/furniture grouping in a living room, you want it to be large enough so that all of the furniture pieces in that grouping fit onto the area rug. There is a debate among designers/decorators regarding this issue. Some believe that only the front legs of each furniture piece needs to touch the rug, while others believe that the entire piece of furniture should fit on the rug. I say purchase one that the entire pieces of furniture can fit onto IF it fits into your budget.

Q:Refreshing my memory been a while so wondering how to lay carpet with a seam. Don't have enough carpet so have some extra carpet that looks the same that I need to use so wanting to lay the carpet with a seam so all the carpet will look as one.

Practice - practice - practice First, the carpet pieces all need the fibers going in the same direction....if you can't do that, it won't matter how skilled you are at seaming a carpet, the piles running different dirctions will stand out. Clean cuts - you need a clean cut along the seam, on BOTH pieces to get them to look good when they are joined. Two kinds of tape - adhesive, and 'carpet' tape (which needs a seaming iron). BEFORE the carpet is stretched for the room, the adjacent pieces of carpet need to be joined. This involves making a straight, clean cut on both edges - this cut should match identically. I achieve this by overlapping the two pieces, and using a straight edge, cut through both layers at once. (You need a VERY sharp blade). Next, apply the seaming tape to the underside of the carpet. I prefer to use the professional grade carpet tape, and I own all the necessary carpet tools to do this. If you do not own them, they can be rented from a local business that rents tools and equipment. I wouldnt make the investment in tools for one room of carpet. If you are using carpet tape, cut it to fit the length of the seam (actually allow it to extend beyond the ends of the seam, for a couple of inches) Plug in the seaming iron, allow it to heat up, and then place it UNDER the carpet, but ON the tape. As the seaming iron heats up the tape, slide it along the length of the seam, pulling the carpet edges together behind it, and press them firmly into the tape. (A roller is handy for this) Do NOT overlap the edges, do NOT allow them to pucker...this is why a good clean cut is so important. Allow the tape to cool, and then you can stretch the carpet and trim it out. Have Fun

Q:The canister filter on (specifically, directly under) my 55 gallon sprung a leak, and in total has leaked 20+ gallons of nitrate-laden water onto the carpet around the stand. The canister is undergoing repairs ATM but the carpet is still soaked. Will I have to break down the aquarium and pull up the carpet, or can I keep mold from growing another way? Also, the canister was removed and will not be back up for at least a day, so how long can I keep my fish in there without an ammonia spike?

Assuming the carpet does not have a separate foam underlayment, rent or buy a high end wet/dry shop vac and vacuum the carpet repeatedly to remove the maximum amount of water. Shampoo the carpet to remove / neutralize the nitrates, then vacuum thoroughly again. Use a fan-type electric heater to blow warm air over the surface of the carpet continuously. Keep the room well-ventilated. If you can, remove the baseboards and use the vacuum to suck out all the water you can then reverse the hose on the vacuum and blow warm air all along the baseboard. If you can get the carpet thoroughly dry within 48 hours, you're unlikely to develop a mold problem. If however, there is a separate foam underlayment, your only option is to lift the carpet and dry or replace the underlay.

Q:Big carpet can be washed directly with water, and then dry it exposed to the sun ?

Wash, then dry, don't directly exposure to the sun

Q:ive melted the carpet by accident and my mums gonna kill me! is there anything i can do!?

Depends how deep you burnt it. If not too deep, try clipping the melted portion off with a pair of nail clippers or small scissors.

Q:The floor is pretty beat up in some of the rooms and between having a baby and preparing for a deployment I don't know if we're going to be able to fix it properly in the near future so I want to prevent further damage with rugs and runners.Anyway, I want to put runners and rugs down in the heavy traffic areas. Couple of questions:Do you know of a good store/website that has matching rugs and runners for reasonable prices?Also, we plan to put the runners on stairs ourselves, which are all wood also (they are straight and all the stairs are uniform in size so it shouldn't be a problem ... it's a three-story-house) but we were wondering if we can just buy a runners to do this or do we have to buy special runners specifically made for staircases? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

OKorder has matching rugs and runners of all shapes and sizes. Also, JC Penny used to sell matching rugs and runners, maybe they still do. I have personally purchased two runners and stapled them, one after the other, onto my stairs. It was supposed to be a quick-fix but it turned out so well, that here we are 7 years later and it still looks great. If you select a runner with a boarder, begin at the top of the steps. Once you work your way down the steps, you may have to cut off the edge of the rug (boarder) and then some, so the cut lands at the end of a riser above a stair tread. If you want the boarder to show at the bottom of the steps, begin the second runner at the bottom of the steps and work up to the other runner until they meet in the riser crease. This will look like it is all one custom piece with a boarder all around the edges. Good luck. To protect your floors from further damage until you can get around to either refinishing the floors or installing wall to wall carpeting, I would certainly use rug pads under any runners or throw rugs. You say you are preparing for deployment. I wish you and your family all the best and I am grateful for our military. Thank you.