• Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH System 1
  • Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH System 2
  • Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH System 3
Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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General Discription of Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

The pump mounting meeting ISO2858&API610; Design pressure up to 2.5MPa; Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; The key wet parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloyetc. The motor and pump share one shaft., high efficiency, good balance.


Advantage of Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

Quick mantainance
Higher Efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Save Installation Space
Exellent Performance
Compact Structure

Technical data of Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN25 upto DN450
Capacity: Q: 3.8-2850m3/h
Head: H: 8-162m
Max Working Pressure: 1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature: 120 degree
Rotation Direction: From the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW
Solid Grainn: Less than 80mg/L


Model meaning of Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

IH 125-100-315A
IH ISO Standard Stainless Steel Back Pullout End Suction Centrifugal Pump
125 - Suction Diameter (mm)
100 - Discharge Diameter (mm)
315 Impeller Diameter Normal size 315mm
A- Impeller Trimmed Code


Applications of Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry.
Such as: Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC; Oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smeltingetc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy, power plant, drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment.

 

FAQ of Hot Water Circulation Centrifugal Pump IH

1. Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

2. Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

3. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q:i'm changing the tyming belt the vehicle has done 120,000 km should i replace water pump as well
Hi strange you say this it seems like when ever a timing belt is changed on a toyota the water pump is always an issue, i was warned that the same is true on my land criuser that the water pump may need to be replaced when the timing belt is changed.
Q:The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out
Water pump life is a direct function of proper maintenance, therefore there is no real answer to your question. At 89k you could certainly elect to replace the WP as long as the T-Belt is also being done, but it is purely a preventive maintenance item. Might save you a lot of money later, or it might not. Impossible to say. It will give you more peace of mind though.
Q:First the shop put in a heater core, but it was still leaking and overheating. Next they put in a water pump. Went to get it and now it wines really loud and the engine use to purr like a kitten, couldn't even tell it was running, now the engine shakes the whole car and it died one the way home but started again. The shop said the cam positioning needs reset again and on the way back to the shop it died again. So from leaking anti-freeze to now it vibrates, dies and wines really loud ! Any ideas what they did wrong ?
Matbe they forgot to replace water pump gasket, timing belt not aligned with timing of engine.
Q:Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.
It's easier than you think. Pull front covers off under hood that cover radiator area. One is a plastic guard and under that is the metal support. Pull electric fan out by onbolting it from sides and 2 clips on top and eletrical connector. Now you have room to work. Loosen belts by losening bolt in center of pulley then loosen them by turning adjustment bolt. pull off belts then pull off these pullies with their brackets as one unit off front cover. Take off front covers by taking off 10mm bolts. Crank area has a triangle shaped plate and you can and just loosen bottom 10mm bolt and take off the two above. now slide cover up and you can see water pump. Set cams on their marks for reference, they have a dot on cams and a slot on housings. loosen timing belt tensioner on bottom of engine and evenly pull bolts to get slack on timing belt about one inch should be enough. now you can pull pump off and slide it out being carefull not to let belt slip on cams and lose timing. install the same way, then slowly turn each bolt up on hydrolic tensioner to ease tensioner center pin back to position. make sure timing marks are ok then put everthing back by reverse order. Or you can also pull radiator and bottom crank pulley with a 3 jaw puller and replace belt with new one. This involves pulling out tensioner also. tensioner can be collapsed in vice slowly then use suitable pin to go through cener pin and its case to keep it collapsed, set on new belt and pull pin after tensioner is installed to set belt tension. I hope this helps, Iv'e done this on a few 3.5 litres my self. GOOD LUCK.
Q:This is what it is doing- the actual pump that is in its own little shed CLICKS all of the time water is being ran, even a small amount of water. The water pressure goes to a slow trickle and eventually stops completely. After about 20-30 minutes I go back and check the spickets and the water is fine, but quickly repeats this same cycle. We just installed this pump about 3 weeks ago. It was doing fine until last week. Does it need to be primed or pressure switch settings increased or decreased? Or am I talking totally out of my head?!
Its either faulty, or was installed wrong.
Q:do I need to replace it again ? How hard is it to change the water pump? Any Idea where on the internet I can download a free maintenance manual or replacement instructions ?
If it were mine, I'd replace the belt again anyway, coolant can accelerate the wear or advance rotting of the belt. The waterpump is driven off of the timing belt so you'd need to make sure you have it all set up to TDC and all marks aligned before removing the belt. Then just remove the bolts to the water pump, scrape away all old gasket material and install new pump, torque bolts to specs w/ micrometer (in lbs) but before you can do all that, you have to remove all components on the front of the motor. Long story short...let a shop do it for you!!!
Q:I've been looking online and can't find anywhere that tells me how to replace the water pump in my 1999 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0. Help please.
Go down to your local Auto Parts Store and ask for a Hayne's Manual for your car, this will show pics and explain in detail how to do just about ANYTHING on your car!
Q:I drive a 1995 Acura integra ls model I'm mechanically inclined just not enough to do a headgasket (more patience wise) my car loses coolant once in every 3 weeks it starts to over heat. I don't have white smoke coming out of the exhaust or milky oil. Everything else runs smooth on my car. I've head it pressure tested and every thing else checks out so I'm kind of lost. All hoses are fine and not leaking and there is no coolant leaks showing up on the ground. Any ideas?
You should have a cylinder leak down test performed if you suspect a head gasket problem. If the water pump were leaking you'd see traces of coolant seepage at the bottom of the timing belt cover, either to the right or left of the crankshaft pulley. An easy way to check for a head gasket is to slip the smog check guy a few bucks and he can stick the probe in your tail pipe to see if your exhaust has any traces of H2O in it. If your water pump is leaking I'd advise replacing your timing belt as well as tensioner, idler and any seals that maybe leaking since t-belt removal will be necessary to replace the water pump. Good luck and hopes this helps.
Q:i have little leak from water pump need to replace it in my mazda 6 2006 v6 3.0l. i have little over 120.000 miles on it. Any body know how much it may cost me?
I don't know why, but the water pump costs between $125 and $160. That seems a little high. It probably retails for $186. Under normal conditions, you just get things out of the way, unbolt the old pump, clean it up and put the new one in. The problem is the other stuff that gets in the way. I'm just estimating the job will take 5-8 hours. Just multiply times the labor rate in your area. Don't forget the anti-freeze when you're done.
Q:replaced one themostat, disconected lower unit twice look at the water pump everything looks fine but when lower unit was reconnected water pump would not work. not sure if asembled it wrong or forgot to d somthing. can someone help.
im guessing the impeller (in a count of a pair days off) went undesirable, that's unlikely, not probable all that unlikely. how previous replaced into it? are you interior the habit of cranking the motor without water attached? the two holes are exhaust alleviation ports -- their functionality is to alleviate stress to facilitate beginning, which might somewhat be made complicated by means of backpressure on the underwater exhaust. various the water comes out down by means of the decrease unit, even though that's common to work out water popping out those ports.

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