• Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump IH Series System 1
Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump IH Series

Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump IH Series

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General Description
Type IH pump is single-stage, single-suction chemical cantilever centrifugal pump, it is instead of type F anti-corrosive centrifugal pump, it is a saving energy products, it widely used in the field of chemical engineering, petroleum, metallurgy paper-making, food, medicine, fiber, etc., it is suitable for delivery corrosive medium or the medium which are not permitted to contaminate, the inlet pressure is ≤0.3MPa, the medium temperature is 20℃ to 105℃, it can deliver more higher temperature medium by cooling unit.

Performance Range
Flow:6.3~400m3/h
Head H :5m~125m.

Instruction of pump type
For example:IH50-32-160A
International Standard Chemical centrifugal pump
Inlet diameter is 50mm
Outlet diameter is 32mm
Nominal impeller diameter is 160mm
Impeller first cut

Structure
The pump is single-stage single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump. The pump is back pull-out type. It is unnecessary to disturb the intel piping, outlet piping and pump casing, the impeller can be dismantled for maintenance.
The shaft seal adopts packing seal or mechanical seal according to customers ‘requirements. The pump uses rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

Rotation direction
The rotating of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Material of main parts
The medium-contacting parts are made of alloy stainless steel, material No.ZG1Cr18Ni9 and ZGCr18Ni12Mo2Ti,etc.

Parts range
Pump, Motor, common bedplate, coupling, check value and sluice valve.

Q: I noticed my car was quot;in the redand was about to overheat as i was driving, so at first I thought maybe i needed more coolant. I turned off my car and heard a fan noise under my engine for like a minute then it stopped. I checked the radiator and it was empty (no coolant) so i put water in there to get to the store to buy more coolant. By the time i bought some the water was already gone (this was only like 10 min) so I put the coolant in drove home again i noticed i was overheating, i checked again and all the coolant had leaked out too..it was all gone, that QUICK! So i asked a couple of men about it, and they say it sounds like it could be a hose or either a water pump. I don't know which it is, i can't drive it anywhere b/c it keeps overheating and i don't want to get it towed for $75 just to get a new hose. So is there a way i could tell what the problem is? Thanks!
if its leaking somewhere you should be able to see where water is leaking from the motor, if its leaking from a hose, then replace that hose, if its leaking out of the water pump then its either the pump or the gasket, if its leaking out of a freeze plug you will need a tow so get the freeze plug replaced, if there arent any leaks then you will need it towed to either get new intake manifold gaskets or a new head gasket. price could range anywhere from under $20 for a hose or up to a couple thousand for a new head gasket.
Q: The water pump needs to be able to pull up water roughly 8+ feet. Ideally the system should include a filter to eliminate the presence of jellyfish. I need the most cost efficient solar panels with wattage provided. The battery used would be something similar to a deep cycle marine battery. Additionally I must figure out the amphours. Does anyone know where I can look up previously constructed systems or my best method of approach. Whom should I seek help from? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The price range we're looking at is around $1000.
Dude okorder / You can visit them there, its got more info, i recommend call them and talk to a specialist. Good luck with the sweet aquarium!
Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.
to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.
Q: my friend has a 2008 Buick Lucerne V8 model. She said its over heating, and steaming from under the hood. the engine is also knocking. Could this be a water pump issue or something else?
Give me a minute UPS has just pulled up the drive with my repaired crystal ball, be right back.
Q: was putting a water pump on, and i tight too much on 2 bolts, and they broke. is it anyway to fix it ?? is it going to cost alot in labor ??
Take the water pump back off. If the broken studs stick out of the block enough you can get a vice-grip pliers on them and remove them. If you can't get a hold on them then you will have to drill a small hole in the stud and use an Easy Out to back out the broken stud(s). Be sure to drill exactly in the center and not too big. Drilling off center or too big and you will destroy the threads in the block. THEN you will have to re-tap the threads and use a larger size stud. Likely you will have to modify the water pump to handle the bigger studs. So be careful. If you are not confident you can handle this then take it to a shop. Ava g'day mate. ) And good luck.
Q: I'm having problems with my washer not filling, instead water is going directly out the drain. i want to see if something could be stuck in the pump. I have never looked at one before so I am not exactly sure what to look for. If you'd like you can see my previous post regarding this issue iv'e been dealing with all day. I dont have the money to hire a professional so I am trying like heck to figure it out myself.Thanks
Sounds like the pump is operating during the fill cycle. if there is something clogging the pump, you wouldn't be losing water, it would never drain.
Q: I have a 1995 Honda Civic LX 1.5L that needs the water pump and timing belt replaced. What all part do I need to order to replace all of that?
You should be able to buy a timing belt kit. The kit usually includes a timing belt, tensioner, idler, balancer shaft belt(if applicable). Some even include the cam and crank seals. Water pump is usually sold separate. You should also get a head cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals since you have to pull the valve cover. Last thing would be drive belts since they come off as well to do the job depending on their condition. 1 gallon of coolant. As far as tools you'll need a 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm and a 19mm wrench and sockets, wratchet, extensions, screw drivers etc... If your doing the job yourself the hardest part will be removing the crank bolt. A powerfull impact gun is needed or a special crank bolt removal tool used for Honda's. A manual to line up the belt and a floor jack and jack stand.One last thing if you do the job yourself, Be sure the marks are aligned properly because if not BAD THINGS will happen$$$$ Good luck and hope this helps.
Q: my heater in my 94 ford ranger went out about a month ago today i flushed the heater core and it worked for a while and started going out again after i was driving for 15 to 20 mins. the hose going into the heater core was warm but coming out wasnt. could it have gotten clogged again or could it be something else.
You need to find the Heater Core water valve.. That's the part that works as the TEMP. Control.. Water Pumps don't die slowly..and leak tremendously.. === Sometimes the Water Control valve(seizes).. So..you need somebody to throw the TEMP Lever back and forth..until you can find the valve location.. You may see the cable moving--put not acting upon the valve.. Usually the valve is shot--spraying a lubricant at it won't do anything.. It needs to be removed--too be worked upon.. Also check all the heater hoses for wear--damage--you may need to rebuild that part of the system.
Q: Replaced the water pump in my 89 f150 and now I have a pretty steady leak coming out. I don't know where the leak is coming from, but its running down the lower hose and dripping off it. I've replaced the lower hose and water pump, what could be causing this?
Forgot the water pump gasket or sealant. Didn't torque the bolts. Didn't clean off the old gasket good enough. Left a piece of debris on the sealing surface. Didn't get the hose all the way on the water pump, didn't tighten the clamp enough. Check the simple things first. It's got to be one of those since the pump is new. Although not all new things work!! Sometimes you get a bad one especially if rebuilt.
Q: Hubby is trying to change the water pump on our GMC Jimmy. He cannot get the fan off to access the water pump. What is the trick here? He's trying to do more of the maintenance on our cars to save $$$$ --but it sure is a bear!
try turning bolts backwards or a sharp tap on wench you can try typing into search box how to replace water pump how to replace water pump video how to remove fan blade you can find most car repairs this way as well more likely just tight and needs a good wack some are left hand turn hold blade of fan or dont remove belt first might help

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