Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump IH Series

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General Description
Type IH pump is single-stage, single-suction chemical cantilever centrifugal pump, it is instead of type F anti-corrosive centrifugal pump, it is a saving energy products, it widely used in the field of chemical engineering, petroleum, metallurgy paper-making, food, medicine, fiber, etc., it is suitable for delivery corrosive medium or the medium which are not permitted to contaminate, the inlet pressure is ≤0.3MPa, the medium temperature is 20℃ to 105℃, it can deliver more higher temperature medium by cooling unit.

Performance Range
Flow:6.3~400m3/h
Head H :5m~125m.

Instruction of pump type
For example：IH50-32-160A
International Standard Chemical centrifugal pump
Inlet diameter is 50mm
Outlet diameter is 32mm
Nominal impeller diameter is 160mm
Impeller first cut

Structure
The pump is single-stage single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump. The pump is back pull-out type. It is unnecessary to disturb the intel piping, outlet piping and pump casing, the impeller can be dismantled for maintenance.
The shaft seal adopts packing seal or mechanical seal according to customers ‘requirements. The pump uses rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

Rotation direction
The rotating of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Material of main parts
The medium-contacting parts are made of alloy stainless steel, material No.ZG1Cr18Ni9 and ZGCr18Ni12Mo2Ti,etc.

Parts range
Pump, Motor, common bedplate, coupling, check value and sluice valve.

Q:How do you remove it without taking the engine out?: 2001 Windstar Van

Q:Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.: 2001 Chrysler 300

Q:I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.: All that will do is cause your pump to burn out sooner. It will run WAY more often without a tank. The tank allows for a 'range' in your pressure, in other words, the pump will fill the tank to 30 psi, but will not kick on again until the tank gets below a certain level, say 20 psi, at which point it will pump it back to 30 and cut off again. Without a tank, the pump will run whenever you draw water.

Q:300M head of 11 stage centrifugal pump with 22KW motor, empty (not water) current of 13A, the water into the pump, current up to 44A, open the outlet valve of the current rising to 100A, immediately shut the gate current is up to 170A, the motor stop. Without any problems, not on the impeller pump shaft is not clean the shell the balance sheet, no wear, bearing normal.: The description of the problem is very clear. Most of this kind of circumstance is overload, is also the outlet pressure is very low, the flow is greater than the rated value caused by the resistance can be adjusted by increasing exports or close the outlet valve, reducing the flow resistance increased by less than or equal to the rated flow. Lift is not an influencing factor.

Q:I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it. Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?: my first response is, you used a wrong gasket or you mucked up the gasket when you installed it. Then i think of maybe the water pump casting cracked when you tightened the bolt. ( but not likely) . I guess you could try the sealer thing. but you could test it to see if it leaking from under the bolt head. The way you could do that is put a soft washer , like copper washer under the bolt head and put the bolt back in. the soft copper washer will make a water tight seal. if it were me , i would remove the pump and find out what the hay is wrong . i have replaced at least 6 water pumps on my own chevys, and have never had that problem.

Q:I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?: That fan thing is called an impeller and when it spins it pumps coolant through the motor and radiator to keep it cool. It spins off a belt that is connected to the crankshaft pully and possiabley the alternator. That impeller and shaft spin on sealed roller bearings. These bearing will last a a lot of miles but they will wear out, and when they do the shaft moves out of round and wears out the seal that keeps the coolant from leaking out past the shaft. Over tighting of the drive belt will wear out the bearinge prematurley, but a pump will usually last 100,000 miles

Q:Why should the water inlet of water pump be fitted with reducer?: Is the water in the end sealing (Shaqi) under the condition of satisfying the original design of the pumping pipe flow.Water injection; height of the larger, more sacred,

Q:We have a low area in our back yard. The previous owner had a pump installed. The flow switch is in the ground at the lowest point of the yard. The actual pump is 2 feet or so, higher up. We have not had to use it much. But last week, when we have the big storm, it stopped working. It some how worked again, but pumping a lot slower, then it stop pumping again. With this pump, I had to add water to get it primed. The last time I try to add water, the water drains instantly. Any one how what could be wrong with it? It was suggest a seal was broken. Thanks for your help.: If you say that the pump is 2 feet higher you must have a hose onthe suction side of the pump it probably has a foot valve on the end of the hose it must be hung open thats why when you try to prime the the the water flows thru check to see if there is any debris holding the check valve open if there is clean it out close the valve prime with water and try to pump

Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?: Sorry, I thought I was answering this question before......is there 2 questions. Ok, the water is exhausted out the fin just above and behind the prop. The exhaust and water are both in the leg area where the shift rod is, so when you take the access plate off, you'll get some water and exhaust. You can't see the water coming out the exhaust port with the motor in a barrel. It's below the water line. And no the exhaust isn't being sucked back in the water pump, at least not enough to matter. There is a flush attachment that will feed water from a hose into the water pump. With the engine on a rack, or the boat out of the water, you can see where the exhaust and water come out. Running in a barrel isn't the best way to see anything. If you take the prop off it's easy to over rev. the motor. My advise is to put the motor on the boat in the water and start it. Check the engine block every couple min. for overheating. A little water dribbled on the head will sizzle, if it's getting to hot...if so shut it down, and recheck the water pump job. There is a tube that sticks in to the water pump housing. make sure it's in position.

Q:I would like to pump water from a canal which is approx. 65ft from my existing sprinkler plumbing. the height of the water level on average is approx. 6ft from the surface of the ground. I will need about 35 psi to operate the sprinkler zones. would the following pump work given the lose of pressure?... Horsepower:1.5Voltage:110V 60hz 9.5AmpPower ( max ):1100 WMax Flow :330 L/Min (87 GPM)Suct Hmax9M(30ft)Max Head:18 MInlet/Outlet Size:1.5quot;RPM:3450: it almost has to. the max amperage for anything with a 110 volt plug is about 12.5 amps. it should as long you are not pumping the water uphill. Please give me the 10 points for best answer!!

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