Brake Pad WVA24545 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1259-8378 brake pad for LINCOLN

Brake Pad WVA24545 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1259-8378 brake pad for LINCOLN System 1

Brake Pad WVA24545 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1259-8378 brake pad for LINCOLN

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Brake Pad WVA24545 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1259-8378 brake pad for LINCOLN

Q: Why is the motorcycle before and after the brake control?: Easy to drive

Q: i have an r6 i just bought it i can down shift i just want to know the proper way to do it i‘ve heard lots of ways but can someone tell me a good way to do it to see if i‘m doing it right thanks for the help: if im engine breaking I usually pull in the clutch, toe it down. and give it just a little throttle before letting the clutch out. bringing your rpms up to just below where they will be when you let the clutch back out prevent the rear from locking up when it goes into the lower gear and makes it a little smoother. but if im just down shifting it depends on the bike. some i can just let off the gas and tap it down a gear and some you need to pull in the clutch for it downshift. ive been riding for about 16 years and havent hurt a clutch or transmission yet.

Q: My motorcycle rear brake sometimes is making a funny whistle sound, it does last for around 2 seconds . it‘s very noticeable but not annoying.There is still much of life in brake pads, my bike is Suzuki GSXR600 K4.Any idea ??: Dirt and brake dust gets embedded in the pads. Remove the pads and scuff them with a wire brush to remove any debris. Then clean them with brake cleaner (available at bike and auto parts stores)

Q: How do I shift? I was told that the bike is ‘four down - one up‘ (though a book I have says that all modern bikes here in the US are ‘four up-one down‘). How do I up and down shift through all the gears?: 1st gear is down, 2nd,3rd,4th,5th are up. Neutral is between 1st 2nd and can be found by shifting down to 1st and pulling up half a click.You sound inexperienced, so easy on the clutch. Have fun and KEEP IT SHINY SIDE UP!!!

Q: Female motorcycle right handle has a brake is the front brake, right foot that there is a brake is the rear wheel brakes, usually when the brakes how to control it? Just getting the motorcycle did not take long, because the front brake with too many fell a few wrestling, is not uphill when the front brake, downhill when the press after the brake, What else to pay attention to: Now the front brake are disc brake, disc brake is extremely sensitive, novice should not be controlled, easy to make brake lock. If the high-speed running too hard to use the front brake is a very dangerous thing (front wheel lock the direction of loss of control made of rollover, dropping! Special attention: to prohibit the use of brake before deceleration.) After the brakes are mostly pot to kill. Easy to control should not be locked. Because it is after the brake, even if the moment is not prone to rollover lock, so the entire brake deceleration system of the main kill the car, usually with the most brakes.

Q: whats up guys ive been wanting to go to motorcycle mechanics institute for awhile now i have a passion for bikes and love working on them i wanted to go to motorcycle mechanics institute in Arizona but ive been reading and ive only seen bad reviews i want to eventually work at a shop then start up my own shop any ideas on what i should do thanks for the help: in the REAL world (on ships) zinc is the best because in the REAL world, coatings have defects (holes) and zinc protects despite such defects btw most paints are plastic (not thermo plastic, but solvent deposited plastic) most modern paints (not primers) consist of long chain organic chemicals

Q: When im on my motorcycle i was taught to brake before entering a turn, which is what ive always done. i was also taught that if you try to slow down in the middle of a turn, your rear wheel will slide out from under you and cause a slide (ive seen it happen to a student).are there any techniques i can use to overcome my fear of sliding and brake during a turn carefully?: I believe most riders go through times when they become apprehensive about sliding out in a turn. It takes practice to develop confidence in the bike and your driving skills. Just braking in a turn won't slide out the rear tire: it depends on how hard you are braking, the angle of the turn, etc. What I've learned in years of riding and teaching rookies how to corner is to start with slow riding skills in a parking lot to get a feel for how far you can lean your bike before it falls. Then ride on open roads with sweeping curves to build confidence, finally going to tighter curves as confidence builds. As much as possible, slow before the curve, and accelerate (or hold a steady throttle) in the curve. The worst thing you can do it vary throttle and brake input up and down in a curve. That throws the bike's dynamics off. I've always felt is was better to have someone ridicule me for a slow rider in curves than feel badly for me as I lay broken at the edge of a curve.

Q: I‘ve wanted a motorcycle for a while now and I‘ve been doing a little research. I‘ve read a lot about engine braking but I‘m not entirely sure on what it is. Can someone please explain it to me and list the steps involved. Or a good link about it would be just fine.thanks: As long as they are not so wide that they rub.

Q: say im going 20-30or more mph and i want to come to complete stop at a red light and im on 3 or 4th gear can i just hold my clutch and brake or do i have to shift down to neutral?also if i want to slow down and im on different gears can i hold my brakes or do i have to always clutch down everytime i need to stop or slow down?: You can pull your clutch in and brake if you need to stop depending on how close you are to the traffic lights when they turn red. If you can change down as you are stopping it's an option but the important thing is stopping safely. practice your emergency braking remembering 70%of your stopping power is in the front brake, you do not want to lock the brakes up if you can avoid it, keep the bike upright when your braking hard. If you see the lights are going to change giving you time to react safely, you can use your gears to slow you down quite rapidly but you will need to practice. Use you clutch as much as you can when you change gear once you've been riding a while it will become a natural reaction and you won't have to think about it.

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