Auto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc
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- 10000 pc/month
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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer
1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.
2.equipped with Disa sand process line.
3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates
4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.
5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )
6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)
Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc
uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc
OEM parts Good quality Competitive price
Excellent part supply system
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949
- Q: I have an 86 Toyota truck with 34k miles ( s used as a ranch truck) and we have noticed that the brake is going past the first stage and catching the second. With how old the truck is how much longer can I safely drive like this? BTW I don‘t brake often, I drop gears
- Well, first check the brake fluid. you could possibly damage the master cylinder. but wow! 86 with 34k miles thats not much at all
- Q: I have a 2008 Pontiac g6 GT 3.5L, and I love it! I‘m getting ready to start modding the car, both for looks and function. I can tear a car apart and wire up speakers, subs, tweeters, decks, and DVD screens, but I am TERRIBLE with engine and other components. I want to start with a new set of tires, wheels, and maybe replace the brakes. I don‘t really know much about brakes, but the ones I have are decent (stock). I‘ve seen a lot of cars with this really nice, shiny colored brake attachments (idk if it is pads, or a shoe or whatever), and I would love to get that look, and improve my brake function.What can I do to achieve improving the function, and adding a little style with the colored part behind the wheel? Any help greatly appreciated!
- The one with the best curves :D
- Q: I am anxious not to have to drive aimlessly on the freeway to charge my battery. I have had one suggestion of putting the car in park and reving the engine to 3500 to get a charge. I found this only provides a partial charge. Someone else informed me that Honda is correct in saying that the battery charges when the brake is engaged. Can I go to the top of a long hill in the City by the Bay and and ride the brake to the bottom and expect to get a battery charge? How many times can I do this without having to replace some part in the brakes? Which technique is better for the environment?
- The regenerative braking system that is installed in your Hybrid is designed to recapture the friction that is normally lost during the braking and use that friction to generate a charge for your battery. During its normal use you should never have to worry about the battery getting low enough to warrant any type of concern. If you are driving the car like a teenager that stole it then you may have the battery level deplete to less than 50 % but again nothing to worry about. This system is designed to recharge the battery during braking as well as during normal cruising when there is little demand on the battery assist mode. I notice that you mention San Francisco and if you use the vehicle normally during your up and down hills travels you should have no problem with charging. If the battery capacity meter shows less than 50% no matter what you do then take the car to the dealership on Van Ness and ask them to do a system inspection to make sure a relay has not gone bad in the charging system.
- Q: The brakes on my 96 olds Cierra are soft. The other day I found no brake fluid in the reservoir yet I can find no leaks. When the engine is off I have full pressure on the pedal. Once I start the engine I lose all pressure and I have only minimal back brakes.Would this be the master cylinder or the booster?
- Neither. You have air in the lines, and your brakes are worn out and need replacement. ADDED: NEVER ADD BRAKE FLUID!! The brake master cylinder is designed to hold just the right amount of brake fluid for your brake system. There are two things to note. 1) As the brake pads wear out, the calipers piston has to move farther out to press on the brake pads. As the piston moves farther out, the area behind the piston becomes filled with more fluid from the master cylinder, and the level of fluid in the master cylinder goes down. When the fluid level in the master cylinder gets too low, a light should come on indicating that your brake fluid is low. That does NOT mean you need to add brake fluid. It means your brake pads are VERY close to being worn out. 2) If you add brake fluid today, and have your brakes done tomorrow, when the mechanic compresses the caliper piston ALL the excess brake fluid is going to spill out of the master cylinder all over the engine compartment and make a huge mess. Not to mention ruining your car. Just a note: Brake fluid does not evaporate. So, unless you have a leak, NEVER add brake fluid. Have your brakes serviced.
- Q: I‘m doing an assignment, and I was wondering if I could get an answer on compression brakes. I‘ve done most of it, i just need some confirmation. Any history of these brakes and the materials they are made of and hav been made of would be great. thanks
- Trains dont use compression brakes, not the kind of compression brakes that deisel semi trucks use anyway. There is a similar system in use, one that does not require the air brakes on each indivudual car to be applied, I guess you could say it is similar to downshifting in your car or truck. Basically it turns the electric motors on each locomotive axle into a large generator, requiring a huge amount of energy to keep the locomotive moving, thus slowing the train down. This electricity generated in deisel locomotives is more or less wasted by being routed into huge heating grids that dissipate the electricity generated as heat. In locomotives on electrified lines the electricity generated is passed back into the overhead wires and is used to provide energy to a train elsewhwere in the system that is needing power. In effect a train going downhill on one of these typse of systems is pulling another train miles away. Added later: oops, got to wondering if you were referring to air brakes using compressed air not the compression brakes used on deisel trucks. Hoghead had air brakes pretty covered, air is pumped into a system, when the air pressure is lowered either by the engineer or an accidental separation of the train it causes the brakes on each car to apply individually. The same basic system with small modifications has been in use for over a hundred years, simple, cheap, quite reliable. There are much better alternatives but the are costly and you know how industry hates squandering money that could better be used in pay bonuses and stock options for ineffective business executives.
- Q: So I bought a 95 chevy blazer v6 4,2L and was told prior to buying it that the brake booster was out. Okay that‘s no problem I say Well after driving it and realizing that pushing that pedal was a task in itself, I need to be 100% percent sure it‘s the booster. I get a hiss when I apply any pressure to the pedal, breaks work(after wrestling down the pedal), and yes my engine bogs when I press it in idle. Hissing continues while brakes applied. So who out there can tell me yes, that‘s your issue? Thanks
- sounds like it as booster is the vacuum that boosts the pressure you apply to pedal to more pressure in the brake system for more brake power it uses engine vacuum for pressure so if you have a leak it will pull more engine pressure to try and help the leak is the hissing sound your hearing, replace brake booster is all you can do, this is very hard and time consuming for diyers and pros as the placement of booster makes it hard to get to and get off pros will be able to do it easier than you, unless you have a whole shop at your disposal i would save headache and take it somewhere
- Q: I changed the front brake pads of my mazda 95 protege without changing brake rotors or resurface last month and got 1000 miles on it.Now I need to change the front rotors because of its crack. Can I change rotors only or Is it imperative that I always need to change rotors and pads together?One more question, when I step on brake pedal, it doesn‘t stop right away. to fix this problem, what do I have to do? Do I need to change brake fluid? thank you
- I have a bablyss. or babliss I'm not sure how it's spelled but it works amazingly. it only takes me 10 minutes to straighten my hair and it's ceramic so it doesn't damage my hair. you should definitely look into it. You have to keep in mind you need to spend money for a good quality one. Conair I find is poor quality and it takes forever and it fries your hair. I spent $120 on mine and it works amazingly. :) My friends also have Bablyss and it works amazingly for them as well.
- Q: the brakes on my 73 Vega car were completely rebuilt (new master cylinder, drums, wheel cylinders etc) it has a dual reservoir no brake booster master cylinder with disk brakes in the front and drums in the back. i have tried to bleed the brakes in the correct order and bench bled the master cylinder but still no pedal pressure. out of ideas so anything will help.
- No brake booster? Your not going to like the way it stops, in fact you will be hard pressed to make it stop. But that isn't the question. Have someone if you can't do it push slowly down on the pedal as you look into the reservoir, do you see little bubbles coming up? If so you will need to bleed the master again. That has to be done before you can do any of the wheels. Start your bleeding at the left front then the right on the rear do the left rear first. You can use the lazy way and just open the bleeder screw and wait for the fluid to come out if you want. There are people that will tell you this is wrong but it is not, it is the only way you can be sure there is no air trapped in between the two calipers or cylinders.
- Q: heres the problem and any help believe me is greatly appreciated(i am a minimum wage worker with not alot money) it is a 95 ford taurus.when i first drive,there are no problems until it seems like the car gets warmed up.then gradually a rubbing sound gets louder and louder.i think its a rub because the slower i go the slower the rub is,faster ,the faster the rub.heres the kicker,when it is wet out side there is no rubbing soundrub may not be a correct term because this sound is LOUD. if i spray my tire(back left)with water,the sound quits for a while. last little info but the most important, when im driving and this LOUD sound is constant, when i apply my brakes the sound totally goes away. if i ride my brakes there is no sound whats so ever,but as soon as release the brake, the sound goes right back to the loud annoying constant sound.ANY HELP at all would be greatly apprecited at least so i know what the problem is so i dont get robbed when i take it in thank you!!!!!
- Could be just cheap quality brake pads. in any way visit your mechanic and have it checked - may be you calipers are sized or something else - you don't want your brakes fail on you.
- Q: I have been in Iraq and upon coming home someone has put engine oil the master cylinder in 2004 Dodge Durango. Apparently from what I have been told I would have to replace the master cylinder, calipers, rubbers, and the steel lines and pretty much everything involved with the system. I was wondering if I could just bleed the system or just replace the master cylinder. What should I do?
- Motor Oil destroys the rubber seals in the system, so the master cylinder, calipers and wheel cylinders need to be replaced or rebuilt. Before you put them back on the lines need to be flushed clean with alcohol. You may also want to change the rubber hoses at each wheel also.
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Auto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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