Q:Hi, how can one devise an in flight regenerative braking system for a Jumbo Jet ? How much energy can be recovered and stored when the Jet descends from a cruising velocity of 555 mph at 40,000 feet and comes to rest on the ground at sea level ? Assume the empty weight is 178 tons, its human cargo weighs 45 tons and it carries 50 tons of fuel during the descent.This is a part of my assignment and I'am having difficulty doing it. All I can find on the internet is regenerative braking for auto-mobiles. I would really appreciate if someone could help me with this.Thanks a lot in advance! :)

Presumably, you could recover all the potential energy 200+ tons at 40,000 ft, plus the kinetic energy of the same mass moving at 555 mph. 178+95 = 273 tons 273 x 40,000 = 10.9 million ton-feet.

Q:i have a 99 infiniti qx4. i had a problem about 3 months ago when my e-brake light starting coming on randomly and i couldn‘t get it off. i ignored it too long and ended up having to have completely new brakes put in for about $1,000. That was about 5 weeks ago, and everything has been fine, except now my e-brake light is on. The brakes can‘t be messed up, they‘re brand new. I had read that sometimes the e-brake light comes on when the fluid or something is low, but like I said, this seems very unlikely. Is it most likely that I just have a faulty light/sensor? Or is something really the matter?As a side note, whenever I‘m on a bumpy road and the car, ya know, lands hard after a bump like an off-road site or contstruction site, the light often then goes off, which makes me think something is getting slammed into place. Does anyone have any ideas?Thanks,Andrew

The red Brake light is an indicator for both the parking brake and the hydraulic brake system. Try this: start your car and just wiggle your parking brake handle (or pedal, whichever you have). If that causes the light to go on and off, make sure the handle/pedal is completely released. If the brake is completely released and wiggling it does not affect the light, I would suspect low brake fluid. Bring it back to the shop that did the brakes.

Q:I changed all disk brakes on my car. Now i got vibration,when i push brake. I can‘t even tell if its front or back.

It could be a few different things most likely would be that you need to bleed your brake system -- if there's air in your system, or too much volume (since the calipers don't need to depress as far), then it might be causeing that. Another possibility could have to do with antilock, if you have it on your vehicle. If one of your speed sensors got disconnected or damaged, it could be activating the antilock system while braking. Another could be that your discs have heavy grooving, and the last pads were conforming to the discs? Hard to tell just by hearing of the vibration, but perhaps you just need to put brake grease on the backs of your pads (NOT on the friction material).

Q:Since I don‘t feel any sponginess in my brake pedal, am I safe in assuming that there is no or little moisture in the brake fluid, and consequently no corrosion is occurring inside the braking system?

Brake fluid is a time change item that is all to often over looked. As it discolours and changes from clear to tan, it is telling you the owner to make a fluid change. The moisture that you make mention of is taken into the system through osmosis i.e. from the relative humidity that is in the air. The climate where you live will play into the effect that it has on your brake system. It may vary from 3 to 5 years for time change of the fluid. Good Luck

Q:Brakes don‘t have as much pressure as they should but still have pressure normally At ramdom Times, the pressure in the brakes will drop all the way, will still stop vut brake power is weak, and car will lunge and smell bad. Exhaust will sound bad.

READ THIS CAREFULLY and PRINT IT OUT! ALL BRAKE FLUIDS are ESTER COMPOUNDS THAT ATTRACT water FROM THE AIR! After about 3-4 years of use, this fluid turns into toxic waste, THINS down AND SEDIMENT DROPS OUT OF IT! It loses it's boiling point AND BECOMES lethal to aluminum alloy found in your braking system! IT gets MORE and MORE slippery as this happens and then SLIPS behind BRAKE SEALS in your master cyinder and internally LEAKS! It wil ALSO turn into LIQUID SANDPAPER and SCUFF UP ALUMINUM Paerts with GRIT! YOU DO NOT NEED ANY NEW PARTS, most times! YOU WILL NEED A FULL POWER BLEEDING of NEW fluid, and the REMOVAL of the OLD FLUID! This is NOT A GRAVITY BLEED or PEDAL BLEED! There is a PRESSURE PUMP for this job! USE ONLY THE GENUINE FACTORY FLUID and NOT the JUNK found at the local AUTO PARTS STORES! WHAT YEAR make, model, mileage, country of origin, engine size, and TRANS type do you have here! I HAVE NO CLUE whatg kind of CAR you have, BUT THEY ARE ALL THE SAME as far as BRAKE FLUID goes! Ever reaplced a MASTER or WHEEL clyidner or had a SEIZED U CALIPER! This is exactly WHY this happens! A FULL POWER BRAKE BLEED prevents nearly ALL BRAKE PO|ROBLEMS ove TWENTY YEARS TIME! ALL brake lines RUST fromt eh inside out! Most IDIOT think it is the OTHER WAY AROUND! GOOD LUCK!!

Q:At what point in the braking operation does the system give your car the maximum stopping distance?

Braking performance is dictated by the power of the braking system and the grip of the wheels. assuming yur brakes are strong enough to cause the wheels to lock up when applied hard at any speed, maximum braking happens right before the wheels lock up. wheel lock up happens when the brakes apply more force onto the wheels than they can provide friction with the pavement. this causes them to slide. kinetic coefficients of friction are lower than static (sliding things are less grippy than non sliding things). because of this, once the wheels start to slide and stop spinning, braking performance will be drastically decreased. because of this, you want to maximize the force applied to the wheels without having them slide. this is why maximum braking performance is achieved when the right before the wheels lock up. for most drivers this can be a very difficult skill to master especially considering that most extreme braking is done to avoid accidents. in these cases the driver has very little mental preparation to be able to maximize braking and many people end up just slamming on the brakes and sliding away. ABS systems work by sensing wheel lock up and then pulsing the brakes on and off very quickly. this lets the wheels regain traction rather than keep sliding. this means that for most people, maximum braking comes by pressing the brake pedal the hardest possible. this is so that the ABS system kicks in and takes over. if there is no ABS system, this type of braking input can easily cause the wheels to lock up and decrease performance.

Q:What are gyro brakes? how do they work? what are straight cable brakes? how do they work? feel free to give me websites also

Odyssey Gyro brake systems allow the brake cables to rotate 360 degrees without binding the cables. its composed of 2 cable systems upper y cable and lower y cable. its a great system but keep in mind its just as expensive in repairs. straight cable means that from the handle bar to the brake this is good for track racing but not freestyle because it would twist the cable around the stem and cause the brakes to lock up.

Q:I have been told that it will cost upwards of $1000 to have a mechanic do the job and I‘ve priced parts to do it myself which will save me about 60% but I don‘t know where to begin!

Any shop worth their salt won't install parts onto a car that they didn't purchase through their accounts at parts stores. Its for warranty reasons. Also, they ARE killing you on part prices. Standard practice at shops is to charge 200% of MFG List price. There's no money in labor. As far as install order. if you're really installing everything you mentioned, the order will not matter at all. Put it all in, fill the system, then bleed the system. When you bleed the system, you wanna start from the furthest spot from the brake master cylinder, IE the back right wheel. Then go back left, then front right, then front left.

Q:i have a home 750 watt sony dvd system. if i hook up an old sub that can only handle 170 watts rms, will it brake the system if it brakes.

The home system is meant to use an 8 ohm load. If the sub is 4 ohm, you may damage the DVD system.

Q:about 2 weeks ago my abs came on. and when i would drive it it wouldnt come on until i had to either stop short or would hit a bump (pothole). my brakes have also gotten soft and not as easy to stop as they used to be. they are brandnew brakes about a month old. the disks look like they have rust on them already, is that normal?my dads a mechanic and drove it and couldnt get the light to turn on, and the brakes were fine. were gonna take the wheels off and check, but any ideas?? thanks!!

first check fluid then check pads type into search box how to check brake pads how to replace brake pads how to bleed brakes listen to dad hes a mechanic will learn a lot