• Brake Disk for casting,auto parts spare parts and accessoriescsting System 1
Brake Disk for casting,auto parts spare parts and accessoriescsting

Brake Disk for casting,auto parts spare parts and accessoriescsting

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price 
Excellent part supply system 
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949




Q: My breaks from time to time act possesed! I‘ll go to apply the brake pedal and I‘ll feel this vibrating resistence with a loud humming sound that sounds like an electric razor. Any ideas? Its a little scary because when this happens it wont allow me to brake? The only thing that sometimes work is to pump the brakes.
The problem you seem to be describing is condition known as unwanted abs activation.Newer vehicles with abs (anti-lock brake system) experience this problem when the brake is applied and your on an uneven road surface and a wheel is momentarily locked-up causing the brake computer to start pumping the brakes for you which is why you get the humming and vibration from the abs pump activating.Another common cause is a bad abs sensor sending a false signal to the computer.You should probably have someone check it out because brake problems are not something to be ignored
Q: I wanna know about brakes in a carI know there are two sort of brakesThat are footbrake and handbrake(emergency brake)Where does these brakes situated?I mean the positions in tyresIf we press the footbrake,which tyres(whether front or hind) will be stopped?Same question goes to handbrakeI mean which brakes will affect the front tyres and hind tryes
when you straighten your hair, it helps not to damage it as much and gives you a much sleeker, shinier look. i have a straightener with ceramic plates that cost me $114 and it is quite expensive, but it works AMAZINGLY! + if you're wanting to buy a straightener, don't buy the wider ones, they SUCK. buy a thiner onemuch better! :]
Q: i have recently replaced all of the brakes on my katana, the front ones went on no trouble, but the rear one is being a pain. i can‘t get it to close shut.
Exhaust systems are tuned to get the best performance and fuel economy, all you are hearing is a new note or noise that sounds like you spent money for a good reason but in reality (which our minds like to fool us) is that you are into the throttle more than you would normally be to impress your self or someone else. We all spend money for a reason and sometimes we have to get comfortable with the idea it is for the wrong reasons. The bottom line is to put it on a dyno before and after to scientifically see a satiating result, which a lot of time is trial and error.
Q: ok so when i turn my car on in the morning and got to stop at a stop sign my back left tire will skid and make a bad sound and my car will feel like it is sinking to the ground for a second. after i drive for a few miles the brakes then work fine. then today my brake pedal felt ver firm when i pushed it down, but my brakes didnt really work that good. i have a 95 chevy beretta and the ABS light is on all the time, the dealer said it was fine if it was on u just need a new sensor. he said sensors are expensive and u dont really need one. what should i do. o and today when the pedal was firm both the ABS and the regualr brake lights were on, according to the manuel this means my entire braking system is in danger. and finally today when the pedal was firm, i stopped at a gas station and turned my car off when i started it again the regualr brake light went off and only the ABS light was on, and the pedal was no longer firm, however the problem with the back tire began again help!!
Ok I have been doing brake repair foe a very long time. From what you are describing it sounds like you might have a wheel cylinder leaking fluid. This fluid leak will NOT be the reason the ABS light is on, but will cause the other symptoms you have listed. If in fact you find this is the case The shop will or should give you an estimate that will include the following parts. Wheel cylinders, they will want to replace them in pairs, one for each wheel. the brake shoes as they are soaked with fluid, this in combination with a probable warped brake drum will cause the lock up problem. They should measure the drums to make sure they can be machined. If the diameter of the drum is too large they really should be replaced. they will also want to replace the brake hardware, these are the springs that hold the brake shoes in place. The full REAR brake repair should cost around 400.00 maybe a little less. this would be for 2 drums 1 shoes 1 hardware 2 wheel cylinders and bleeding the brakes. The ABS problem is an electrical problem. wheel speed sensor is most likely but there are many things that can cause the light for the ABS to come on. when the ABS light comes on the ABS system only shuts off, At that point your braking system operates just like a car that does not have ABS and will NOT affect normal braking operation. I hope this helps. The leak your friiend has found is the majority of your problem. I wouls also have the front brakes checked to make sure everything is good up there. You will still have the ABS problem but at least your brakes will function. If your problem is a wheel speed sensor they cost about 100.00 in most cases.
Q: My car barely started (it takes longer than usual to start) and said Check Brake System. I am wondering what could be wrong and what I should do?
First thing you should do is check the brake fluid, and if it is low add some dot 3 brake fluid (not synthetic). But maybe it could be your ABS sensor; take the car to a certified mechanic, so he can check your brake system and scan your car computer for codes since you have the check brake system light on. Good Luck
Q: So I bought a 95 chevy blazer v6 4,2L and was told prior to buying it that the brake booster was out. Okay that‘s no problem I say Well after driving it and realizing that pushing that pedal was a task in itself, I need to be 100% percent sure it‘s the booster. I get a hiss when I apply any pressure to the pedal, breaks work(after wrestling down the pedal), and yes my engine bogs when I press it in idle. Hissing continues while brakes applied. So who out there can tell me yes, that‘s your issue? Thanks
My money is on the booster but try a check valve and also have someone push the brake pedal whily you listen underhood and dash for the hiss Salvage yard should have one for short money.
Q: What if someone never changed their brakes and the brakes are completely worn out? Would the ABS kick in or would the calibers be damaged? Thanks!
Both disk drum brakes have indicators which make a distinct metal-metal squeal or grinding when you apply the brakes on a car with worn pads. The indicators are pieces of sheet metal which hit the rotor/drum just before the pads are totally worn away. Once you hear it, the time to have the brakes checked is NOW. Before ABS (anti-lock braking systems), people would just slam on the brakes until they feel the car start to skid. Then, a good driver would take their foot off the brake, allowing the wheel to rotate, and step on the pedal again. This pumping action on a panic stop is exactly what the ABS does. only faster and more accurately. If you brakes are completely worn out, the car won't stop. That's because metal-on-metal slides. The pads pressing against the metal drum/disk cause more drag than metal-on-metal. With worn-out brakes, the car won't stop; without ABS, with ABS or even with the hand brake. And no, driving with worn-out brakes won't damage the ABS that is, unless you can't stop and drive into a tree. Many places, like brake muffler shops will do FREE brake inspections. When in doubt, have them do an inspection. If it needs brakes, they will give you a written quote, listing all the parts work to be done. (With that, you can take your car to a good shade-tree mechanic to repair your brakes fro a reasonable price. It isn't difficult.)
Q: the brakes work good, however i have to continually add brake fluid. i could not find a leak anywhere, and pressure is good. i have been told it could be one of the following: brake proportioning valve antilock valve brake boosterhow do i test each of these and where is the antilock valve located? is there anything else it could be and how would i check it? i know i should have a pro do it but i am in college and can not afford that luxury.
The ABS equipment failure does no longer reason this subject, the ABS failure could in simple terms reason the wheels to fasten up like if it became into geared up without ABS. It sounds such as you nonetheless have air interior the equipment, rusty brake line or broken hose, or a defective grasp cylinder diaphragm. you will desire to have precise off the reservior, then park it on a dry pavement, get below the truck to verify if there became into brake fluid leaking from everywhere collectively as pumping, it ought to have saved you $$$ in changing the calipers and drum cylinders. yet gain this now and notice if its leaking everywhere,no count if it truly is then fix the leak, yet whilst no longer then re-bleed the brakes and then bypass after the grasp cylinder.
Q: i have a 91 honda crx.i bled the brakes on it and i had no trouble with two wheels.the other two wheels when i crack the bleeder it hardly leaks any fluid if any at all.ive bled them numerous times and still same thing.the ones that wont bleed had pads that were still good.one front wheel and one rear on opposite sides wont bleed.help.please dont say bring to a professional.
i heard you the first time
Q: Why is it that when my car is turned-off, I can only press the breaks a couple of times before it stiffens up?
The power brake booster uses engine vacuum. When you hit the brakes a bit of the vacuum is released. With the engine running the vacuum is replaced and you do not notice anything, With the engine off, you use all the vacuum in the booster when you pump the brakes, and there is nothing left to power your brakes!!

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords