Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg

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OKorder is offering high quality Cast Automobile Brake Hubs at great prices with worldwide shipping. Our supplier is a world-class manufacturer of water glass lost wax investment casting and model forging both carbon steel and alloy steel, and one of the largest casting production bases in China. We have supplied more than 8000 tons of wheel hubs annually to European, North American and Asian markets. Additional OEM casting and forging services are available according to customer requirements.


The intended use of Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg


Our Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg are ideal for:

  • Automotive applications

  • Mining accessories

  • Construction machinery

  • Agricultural machinery


The advantage of Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg


Not only are OKorder's Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg of the highest quality and reliability, we are able to quickly ship orders within 20 days of receiving a deposit or original L/C. All products are shipped with ISO, SGS, BV, and CIQ certification as well as ASTM, AISI, DIN, BS and JIS standards.



Main features of Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg

  • Additional OEM casting and forging services available

  • Shipped within 20 Days




Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from

A: All products offered are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. Through its ISO certifications, adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.


Q2: How are our Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg manufactured?

A: All of our products are lost wax castings, poured in both carbon steel and alloy steel to the highest tolerances.





Item: 4-10 Hole Brake Hub

Name: Brake Hub

Production Process: Water glass lost wax investment casting or model forging

Standard: ASTM, AISI, DIN, BS and JIS

Hub Max. Casting and Forging Size: 1m

Hub Casting Weight: 5kg - 110Kg

Hub Dimension Tolerance: CT7

Hub Surface Roughness: Ra6.4~12.5

Hub Productivity: 7500 tons per year


Q:I have absolutely no brakes on my explorer when you push the brake pedal down it goes all the way to the floor. I have had 3 people look at it and everyone tells me something different. We thought air was in the brake lines so we tried to bleed the brakes that did no good. Thought the Calipers were bad changed them still no good. Two people looked at master cylinder and said it was OK another said it wasn‘t I‘m at a loss. I have done spent around $250 trying to fix it in the past 2 weeks and am about to pull my hair out. I am a single mom with 2 kids and I need it so I can get back and forth to work daily. Does anyone have any suggestions? I cant afford to take it to a mechanic so any help on here would be greatly appreciated
if youre brake booster was bad you would still have brakes it would just be extremely hard to push down the pedal , if youre calipers were bad it would pull very hard to one side or the other when you hit the brakes,hers how to tes a master cylinder, you start the engine and wiht youre truck idling you press firmly on the brake pedal and if it slowly sinks to the floor the youre seals are bad inside, based on what you provided it sounds to me like you have some sort of blockage somewhere, if you hit the pedal and it drops straight to hte floor with little or no resistance then youve got a leak somewhere, but if you havent noticed brake fluid pouring out than that is not a likely problem either, the only other idea i have based on the info you provided is that the linkage for the brake pedal has broken or come loose under the dash board or that youre fluid level is extremely can visually check the fluid level by looking at the resevoir under the hood, to check your linkage look at the very top pf your brake pedal and check if everything is still attached to it and that nothing is broken. i hope this helps but if youre still having issues i would be more than willing to go thru this step by step w you, if you live in illinois i would be happy to come take a look for you and repair it , at no cost to you, good luck and god bless, let me know how you come out thanx ps the vaccuum leak suggestion isnt bad but you would notice a definite increase in engine speed at idle if you had a leakk big enough to effect your brakes
Q:the benefits of ABS anti-lock brakes which prevent the wheels of a car of locking when performing sudden braking maneuvers. include the relative sizes of the coefficients for static and kinetic friction.
Gap to the side or to the pivot? Say whatcha mean, dude.
Q:While changing the brake pads on my 2007 Sequoia, I accidentally removed the bolt that holds the two halves of the calipers together. Brake fluid poured out. I tightened the bolt back on and finished installing the pads. After finishing, I noticed that my brakes felt very mushy and were barely stopping my car. Along with that, my parking brake light and traction control light stay on. I decided there was probably some air in the brake lines, so I bled them. But nothing changed. I still have very mushy brakes with all of these lights on my dash popping up. Any ideas? Thanks
I would re-bleed the brake system. Farthest point to closest point. If this doesn't resolve the issue, check the caliper that you removed the bolt from that leaked fluid. Is it still leaking? When it did leak, did it saturate the rotor, or did any get on the new pads? If it got on the new pads, you will need to replace them with new ones. If on the rotor, you will need to use brake clean and spray and wipe the brake fluid off. Next, when you removed the bolt that retains the dual caliper setup, did the caliper seperate completely? If so, and you put the caliper back together to fasten the bolt, you could have damaged one of the seals. If you did, you will need to have that caliper re-built to seal properly, so no brake fluid will seep out and cause low pressure on the braking system. If brake fluid seep's out, it will saturate the new pads, sensor, and the rotor, possibly causing brake failure. You also want to be sure you didn't get any brake fluid on the sensor, if so, you will need to clean it off before reassembly. To clear the lights, you can try to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then re-connect it. If it doesn't clear, you will need to go to your local parts place. They will have an OBD scanner that will hook up under your dash and relay any codes that you have. Read the codes, make sure they only pertain to your braking system, if so, they can clear them, resetting your computer and sensor's. If you have anything other than braking codes, you will need to look into them further for the repair.
Q:It would be for a 1970 Ford Mustang.This is the Craigslist ad:1970 Mustang Coupe Project Car, 302, Automatic, Factory AC car, Magnum 500‘s.Newer:Seat CoversCarpetGas TankFlowmaster ExhaustEngine runs good. Not driveable - no brakes, will need to trailer or flatbed.86,000 milesAlso how much do you think I should pay? (He is asking $3400)Thanks!
ENVY YOU! Check the unibody for RUST and damages FIRST MECHANICALS are easy to fix BODY WORK and paint or NOT easy to fix! STEERING sucked on those year cars! New brakes are on INTERNET from BRAKE WAREHOUSE and more places! Have NEW brake lines and hoses installed and perhaps even a new MASTER CYLINDER! CALIPERS should clean up with SAND BLASTING! Expect about $500 or so if someone ELSE does the work! BYE NOW!
Q:I have a 1978 Chevy Corvette, I replaced the master cylinder, booster, calipers, brake pads, and rotors, and bleed the system 20 times, has new fluid, and each caliper is getting good fluid flow, and absolutly no leaks. The brake pedal feels good but it doesnt want to stop, stand on the brake pedal and doesnt lock up. There is no air in the system. Does anyone have any ideas on what else it can be? The only other thing I can think of is the Brake Booster I bought is bad. It was a re-man unit from the auto parts store.
Official GM brake booster test is very simple. Start car, let idle for about 3 minutes without touching the brakes. Turn vehicle off again without touching brakes. Wait approximately 45 minutes, apply brakes in vehicle without starting. Should have 2-3 fully assisted brake applies before the pedal starts to firm up. If not, booster or check valve is bad. You've ensured the vacuum line, check valve, and any vacuum reservoirs potentially used are all operating correctly? Does your brake light work correctly?
Q:i have a leak in the caliper, and midas said i must replace them when i replace the caliper
Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluid does not contain mineral oil! When brake pads get contaminated with Glycol Ester (brake fluid) they should be tossed away. Brake fluid will ruin the binders that hold the friction material together on the brake pad. Citroen Cars once upon a time did use oil based brake fluid.
Q:Is replacing the brake master cylinder very similar to replacing the clutch master cylinder on most vehicles?
Similar but there are more lines to connect and bleeding is more involved.
Q:about 2 weeks ago my abs came on. and when i would drive it it wouldnt come on until i had to either stop short or would hit a bump (pothole). my brakes have also gotten soft and not as easy to stop as they used to be. they are brandnew brakes about a month old. the disks look like they have rust on them already, is that normal?my dads a mechanic and drove it and couldnt get the light to turn on, and the brakes were fine. were gonna take the wheels off and check, but any ideas?? thanks!!
From the factory service manual. ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM LAMP The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) lamp gives an indication when the ABS system is faulty or inoperative. The lamp is hard-wired in the instrument cluster, and is completely controlled by the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB). The ABS lamp receives battery voltage through the instrument cluster fused ignition switch output feed circuit, and is grounded by the CAB. The lamp is turned on by the CAB for about two seconds when the ignition switch is turned to the On position as a bulb test. After the bulb test, the CAB turns the lamp on or off based upon the results of the ABS system self-tests. The CAB continually monitors the ABS circuits and sensors to decide whether the system is in good operating condition. If the CAB turns the lamp on after the bulb test, it indicates that the CAB has detected a system malfunction and/or that the ABS system has become inoperative. If the brakes are soft they may not be bedded in fully yet. You may even have air in the system and the brake fluid may need bleeding. Rust on the brake discs depends on how often the vehicle is driven. If it's just sitting there in damp weather you will get rust pretty quickly.
Q:I have a 1988 T-Bird Turbo Coupe. It came with an Automatic Braking System (ABS. The normal Braking Cylinder came with ABS, but that part is not made anymore. The only kind Braking Cylinders that are made come without ABS.
ABS certainly skill Anti-lock Braking device and it serves to do merely what the call shows. some at the same time as in the past engineers desperate that a vehicle will end faster if the wheels are actually not locked up (now no longer turning in any respect) in a skid. Pumping the brakes manually, even however, seems counter-intuitive to maximum drivers in an emergency concern. besides, there is no way a human can pump the brakes as speedy a a menchanically designed device with sensors feeding the information to a working laptop or workstation can do it, and do, anti-lock brakes have been invented. a typical layout features a magnet or magnets spaced around the wheel hub with a magnetic sensor or pickup placed in a fixed place that senses the magnet(s) passing because of the fact the wheel rotates. Now, this records is fed right into a small processor which could study the cost at which the magnets are passing the sensor with the cost of the vehicle once you hit the brakes complicated and if it determines that the vehicle is in action, however the wheels are actually not turning then it is conscious that the brakes have locked up the wheels, and it starts off to directly open and close a alleviation valve to pulse, or effectively pump the brakes very directly on and rancid the top the skid. now no longer all ABS structures are magnetic. i've got seen some use optics, or different skill to experience the wheel speed, however the thought maintains to be an identical. If the device sees which you have utilized the brakes and the wheels are actually not spinning with regards to the cost of the vehicle, the ABS device triggers.
Q:On a 99 Ford F150, the ABS: light stays on. Is that anti-locking brake system or air bag system?
WIll probably cost between 1500 to 2000 sounds like alot but it is cheaper than a new car Just take into consideration age, mileage,and if you plan to keep the car long enough to make it worthwhile

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