Top Seal Car Parts Brake Pads /Brake Linling

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China main port
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Min Order Qty:
20000 pc
Supply Capability:
2000000 pc/month
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Quick Details

Packaging : 

Packaging Details:Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:within 30 days after deposit

Specifications

Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

                                                     

1.Material:

Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.

2.Certificate:

ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.

3.Advantage:

-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.

 

Product Name:  car brake pads
MATERIAL:Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Timeabove 40000kms
StandardGB5763/2008
PRODUCT FEATURES:1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
3) Good performance of water proof;
4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
5) long life time
Packing

 

1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size.

2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.

picture of brake pad:

Top Seal Car Parts Brake Pads /Brake Linling

Top Seal Car Parts Brake Pads /Brake Linling

Top Seal Car Parts Brake Pads /Brake Linling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Q:I have a 1998 chevy cavalier and today when i when to stop real fast my brakes made some kind of noise i dont know if you‘d call it knocking but it only happens when i slam on brakes. I checked my brake fluid and its not to the max line could that be the problem? It doesnt make a sound when i slowly put on brakes like normal.
could be the Anti Lock Brake system functioning normally. you mentioned it only happens when you slam on the brakes, and the system is designed to work in that situation. I've been a mechanic now for 4 years and i spent 2 years in an automotive technology school
Q:The disc‘s in the front of my polo keep on warping i‘m going onto my 4th set of front disc‘s and the car has only done a total of 25000km(my brake pads are wearing just fine). if anyone could offer some advise on how to solve this problem.
The brakes are normally reliable on all VWs, I have just changed the discs on mine for the first time at 125,000 miles, it may be the way you drive, for example, when your brakes are hot don't press the brake pedal at lights or when you stop, use the hand brake instead, avoid sharp acceleration when you know you are coming to a stop soon after, between red lights for example. The discs are warping due to heat build up, which is then locked into one small space by the pads.
Q:what is the part called that screws in the front fork of the bike to then you screws the bolt of the v brake system calliper in to it ? any links on-line or what is its called mine broke and i need a new one.thank you
Take okorder
Q:I am a newbie when it comes to knowing anything about cars. When regular breaks are applied, is it being applied to all wheels, front, or back?Same question for the emergency brake (the one you pull).How do these braking systems work?
hi, i'm Randy. I reviewed your question, and needed to grant training that should help. in case you hear a grinding sound once you practice the brakes: * the main person-friendly reason for this undertaking is whilst the lining has worn previous their provider shrink and the steel plate is contacting the rotor. * some would journey a grinding noise basically whilst the pedal is somewhat utilized and the motor vehicle is shifting very sluggish (which includes somewhat freeing the pedal from a supply up place). This operation is frequent. if your brakes squeal whilst employing the brakes: * Vibration is the source of maximum brake noise. whilst noise is heard it extremely is often because of the vibration between the pad and the rotor, or failure in different brake hardware. Hardware ought to get replaced with each brake activity. * A noise would additionally be heard if brake ‘placed on’ alerts or ‘sensors’ touch the disc brake rotor. whilst this occurs the ‘sensor’ often emits a intense pitch noise to alert that brakes desire prompt interest. If this occurs have the brakes checked as we communicate by utilising an approved brake gadget expert. thank you for the prospect to communicate your question. Please permit me be attentive to in case you have any extra questions.
Q:i have a home 750 watt sony dvd system. if i hook up an old sub that can only handle 170 watts rms, will it brake the system if it brakes.
The home system is meant to use an 8 ohm load. If the sub is 4 ohm, you may damage the DVD system.
Q:Replaced master brake cylinder. bled the system. Pedal hard when engine off but bit mushy when on.
If you have power brakes, that might be the cause of it. When the engine is off, the power brakes are not power-assisted. Engine on, power assisted, so it takes less effort to push the pedal. If the mushiness of the pedal (with engine on) feels different than before you replaced the master cylinder, then you could still maybe have air in the system. Also, most master cylinders must also be bench bled, or bled by hand before they are installed in the car. If your is one of those, and you did not do it, there will likely still be air hiding in the master cylinder. If you have any doubts, take the car to a tire and brake shop and have them do a quick bleed job. It's usually pretty inexpensive, and they have the equipment to do it reliably, quickly, and easily.
Q:antilocking brake system (abs)
It works by a computer reading the speed of each of the wheels and the drive shaft speed and constantly comparing them all. If a wheel slows down suddenly while applying the brakes a set of solenoids in your cars brake master cylinder go to work taking over the brake controls for that wheel. It presses and releases the brake pedal for you for that wheel (in which you will feel a pulsing on the brake pedal). Xtra: Traction control is similar except for if a wheel begins spinning it applies and release the brakes.
Q:hello, i was wondering about a problem that i have with my brakes on a 95 Pontiac grand am se coupe. the problem started with the car kinda shaking whenever I would come to a stop. also the car kinda hesitated when stopping, kinda like it wasn‘t stopping to it‘s full capacity. This went on for a couple of days so i checked my brake fluid and saw that it was low, so i filled it up. Noticed about a week later that the same thing was going on, so i filled it up again and chalked it up to a a leaking brake fluid system and was content with filling it up every week. So i kept filling it up but noticed that the shaking would get worse and even happened when the brake cylinder was filled up to the top. Fast forward 2 months or so, i come home from college ( my car was sitting in the same spot for the whole 2 months), and decide to go to the store. read the additional comments to see the rest of the question
Ok, the shaking is from warped rotors and pads. That's easy, replace pads and rotors or have rotors machined. The part I don't like is that you kept adding brake fluid. Was the level going down? the brake system is a sealed system, you should not have to add fluid that often. Check for leaks, check you brakes rotors/drums for humidity, your brake lines. take the hose off the brake power booster and using a flash light inspect the inside to see if the fluid is going there.
Q:I had to replace the left rear bakeline in my 93 Corsica and I am having problems w/ bleeding them. I have tried to bleed them all day and I am still getting air bubbles. I did see a drop of brake fluid by the Master Cylinder, So I am wondering if the Master Cylinder is the problem.
im thinking yu have tightened up any connections at the master clyinder also if you had let the cylinder go dry you gotta bleed it. ok then you need to keep plenty of juice in the cylinder there are 2 resivors. go to the wheel that is furthest from the cylinder, but first pull the drum on the replacement brake linings look at the brake cylinders pull back a boot not off just take a piece of it and peel it back not off if you get any fluid coming out of it you have a bad cylinder check the other side of the cylinder if it is good look to see if the piston push rods are set right if they look cool button it back up,, have some one get in the car pump it up and you open the bleed bolt. well you know how to do that retighten pump open hold down tighten untill a stright shot comes out tighten go back to the cylinder refill go to the rear drivers side same deal then front pass then drivers side you should have pedel just dont let your cylinder go down. If you have abs then you may need to vacum bleed them your shop has one. all else fails new cylinder ALWAYS go to the easist thing first and work up. how come you only replace one wheel brake linings? maybe i misunderstood. good luck
Q:Just got my car back from the repair shop, and it turns out that someone put tranny fluid in the brake system. I‘m hoping you guys can let me know how I might go about draining the fluid from the brake system so I can put actual brake fluid in.Would I just bleed the fluid out, or would I have to take out the master cylinder, or what?Thanks for the help dudes!
Possible brake failure! the seals throughout the brake system will swell up with petroleum oil and start leaking before too long. Document the screw up, so in a month or so you can have them start replacing the master cylinder and each wheel cylinder, etc when they start having problems. The entire system must be flushed -- from the master cyl, thru the lines, to each wheel

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