• Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN System 1
  • Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN System 2
Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN

Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN

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Min Order Qty:
20000 pc
Supply Capability:
2000000 pc/month

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Quick Details

Packaging : 

Packaging Details:Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:within 30 days after deposit


Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

                                                      car brake pads



Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.




ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.




-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.


Product Name:  car brake pads
MATERIAL:Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Timeabove 40000kms
PRODUCT FEATURES:1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
3) Good performance of water proof;
4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
5) long life time


1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size.

2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.


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A1: All products offered by OKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.

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A2: We have established an advanced quality management system which conducts strict quality tests at every step, from raw materials to the final product. At the same time, we provide extensive follow-up service assurances as required.

picture of brake pad:



Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN




Q:I‘ve read that some motorcyles are this way, as opposed to having a seperate rear and front brake.
Fricking IRON MAN of course!! ;D
Q:Only prob I see is boil point.
Are you talking about using antifreeze instead of brake fluid? Is there some sort of brake fluid shortage I am unaware of?
If it isn't in use then maybe it is a blown fuse
Q:Just got my car back from the repair shop, and it turns out that someone put tranny fluid in the brake system. I‘m hoping you guys can let me know how I might go about draining the fluid from the brake system so I can put actual brake fluid in.Would I just bleed the fluid out, or would I have to take out the master cylinder, or what?Thanks for the help dudes!
Take it back to the shop and have them fix what they have done! That is VERRRRRY bad!!! Brake fluid does not contain petroleum, tranny fluid does. Petroleum will cause all the rubber and seals in the brake system to swell and fail causing irreversible damage. At very least the master cylinder will have to be replaced, most likely the brake calipers as well. If the shop put tranny fluid in then they should be the ones to pay to repair their actions.
Q:2000 Golf GLS 2.0. If I buy my own brakes and rotors, will my brake sensor light automatically turn off or do I have to get it reset some how?
On most cars there's two brake warning lights. One is for the braking system itself, the other for the ABS. Without knowing which one you're talking about its hard to say. In most cases if the ABS light (usually yellow) is on it an indication that there's an issue with that system and generally speaking needing rotors and pads would not trip it. If its the one for the actual braking system (red) it could mean there's a leak in the hydraulic system, the fluid is low, or there's a problem with either one of the lines, a caliper or the master cylinder. In some cases replacement of the rotors or pads might turn it off but its doubtful. On most cars once an issue is repaired the lights go off on their own with no need for any reset.
Q:The brake pedal is really mushy. Ive tried bleeding the line and all that comes out is fluid but it never retains pressure it seems like. The Emergency parking brake light is also on even though the handle is not pulled. What do I need to look for or do at this point?
When you bleed the brakes system you must start at the wheel that is furthest away from the master cylinder ,and work to the nearest to make sure that you remove all the air out of the system . I hope this helps you .
Q:Energy conservation, but people do so little work on the car, the car more work how will this be so? Its braking distance should be very small, because the distance between the brakes is also very small, but I do not feel when the resistance is very large cart?
library has a special hydraulic brake working principle, introduced in great detail
Q:showing up but now it is back again. Both brakes lights work when someone steps on the brake pedal. Is there some kind of reset button or does this indicate that lights other than the brake lights have failed?
What about the center high mounted brake light? Is it working? Also if the wrong bulb is used, the lights may work but still set the failure light. The bulb failure light is also connected to the tail lights, if there is a problem with one of them it will illuminate. Other problems can cause the lamp failure light to illuminate such as a broken wire or a bad ground. Basically the circuit know how much current should be drawn when the bulbs are on and if it sees something else it will turn on the failure light. The light will light within seconds after detecting the failure. When does it come on, when you press the brakes, when you turn on the tail lights, when both are on? Answer this question and have someone work the lights in all possible combinations while you are watching and you should be able to see what is going on.
Q:My 01 solara‘s brake feels weird. I think I need to bleed the brakes. But before I do so, I want to see if I‘m right. The brake initially requires pretty much no effort to press down and for that initial amount there‘s no brake at all, or so I don‘t feel anything. So I think there‘s air in the brake lines. Am I right? or there‘s something else that needs to be done?
If air is causing the issue the big question is how was it introduced into your brake system. The system is sealed and is designed specifically so that air will not get in. Have you had maintenance performed on your brakes recently? When was it you first noticed the condition? This could be air, or one of the components in your system could be beginning to bypass. If on o-ring or seal is beginning to allow fluid to pass it instead of compressing it the resulting feel can also be the same as air in the system. If this began after maintenance had been performed then air is quite likely. If this is starting on its own air is a possibility, but it may just suck air back in wherever it is getting it from. Either of these will be found by bleeding. If bleeding doesn't do the trick it will require further testing to discover which component is bypassing.
Q:This truck has a 7 prong round plug for the trailer. Do I have to buy a brake booster for this year, or is the brake booster built in to work automatic when I tow a trailer?
I have a 99 F150 XLT 5.4L Supercab. I tow a 18 foot flatbed with it. The truck came with the towing package but it didn't have a brake controller. I bought a controller at WalMart then I went to my local parts store and bought the pigtail that plugs the controller into the trucks wiring harness (there's a plug under the dash just to the right of the steering column) and I had brakes on my trailer. Your truck is newer so I would go to my local dealer and ask them to check it, they can tell you if it has a brake controller or not or, if you can't get to a dealer, call one and ask what a brake controller looks like and where it's located then go check your truck yourself.

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