Titanium Mining Centrifugal Slurry Pumps

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

1.Model: TD
2.Material: high chrome alloy or rubber or ceramic
3.Flow Rate: 10.8-5400m3/h
4.Head: 3-118m
5.ISO9001:2008

Various centrifugal pumps for pumping heavy slurry in agriculture,petrochem,manufacturing,energy and mining.

Pumps are designed and suitable for 3 main purposes:

1) Decrease electricity consumption and increase pump life

Our uniquely designed pumps limit slurry contact thus the efficiency is significantly higher and hence very big conventional slurry pumps can be replaced by a pump with a 20% of more smaller motor without affecting pumping performance. If energy bills and high cost of ownership is of concern, these pumps are the answer.

2) Lime and ash applications

Lime and ash pumping applications are particularly difficult for centrifugal slurry pumps because acceleration inside the pump causes the slurry to clump together into a solid clay degrading performance. We have a unique solution proven to work more efficiently and outlast conventional pumps.

3) High viscosity liquids

Superior throughput rates compared to gear and vane pumps using a unique new design. Great for bitumen, all emulsions and fats.

FAQ

1 How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2 Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3 Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime

Q:I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?: I agree with Scott.Truth is though the water pump is a completely different issue than a thermostat.The only relation they have is both are part of the cooling system.If it had been me doing the water pump i wouldn't have changed the thermostat either

Q:How do you remove it without taking the engine out?: Disconnect lower radiator hose (8286) from the water pump lower tube. Remove the engine mount nuts. Remove the cowl extension panel. Disconnect the water bypass hose and the heater hose from the water pump outlet tube. Remove the water pump outlet tube bolt and position the tube assembly out of the way. Install the lifting eye to the exhaust manifold (9430). Attach engine lifting equipment and raise the engine 127 mm (5 inches). Remove the bolt and the accessory belt idler pulley. Remove the bolts and the generator support bracket. Remove the four bolts and the water pump pulley (8509). Remove the water pump. Remove the five nuts. Remove the five studs. Remove the four bolts. Remove the water pump, lower tube and gasket as an assembly.

Q:We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!: A by-pass without a pump is going to do nothing. The pump moves the water from the heater to your sink. They do have the under counter heaters, but you need to have them plumbed for gas or have electrical run to them.

Q:I'm looking for a high pressure water pump ,preferably submersible, between 80-100 psi.: go you five and six show room only prospects of high pressure of toll pump or submersible menu check if you like buy no like no buy

Q:can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?: Dodge Intrepid 1995

Q:I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.: If it's not a heater hose leaking your most likely right that the water pump is bad and loeaking coolant out of the weap hole,which is their so you know it's bad and needs replaced , i believe you should be able to have a new water pump labor for around $300, bucks.Don't put it off to long or you might blow the head gasket.You don't wont to do take.

Q:My Toyota 2006 Sienna has 80K miles on it and I asked the dealer to inspect the vehicle. He suggested that i replace Timing Belt, Water Pump, Drive Belt and Trans Pan Gasket. The cost of the repair comes to $1300 ($460 for Timing Belt, $350 for Water Pump, $140 for Drive Belt $370 for Pan Gasket).I'm caught by surprise with the price quoted and things to be replaced. Is the price quoted reasonable? Are these replacement common for Sienna vehicle with 80K miles? I don't know what could possibly go wrong if these are not changed for couple of months. I have an extended warranty on the vehicle for 100K miles will any of the above get covered under warranty?Any suggestions or advice is highly appreciated/: For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awH9s Um that doesn't seem to bad to you might get it down 450 or 500 if you went to an independent shop but for a dealer 650 is not that bad plus if you ever had to do this job you would understand why it costs so much there is no part of it that doesn't sux. That's why I work on airplanes now better money and no complaints about labor cost.

Q:I'm trying to make water pump with solar energy. I need to have good water pump. Could you find good websites to find DC 12v water pump, or is there any place that I can get it?: once you pass to a shop on line or physique of ideas a enterprise that's rather helpful to be sparkling what you go with it for. If it rather is for a boat then is it for pumping sparkling water from the tank around to the faucets, is it for pumping out the bathe or is it for pumping out the bilge. The pump then will desire a various grade strainer and can/will possibly no longer have a float change or a rigidity turn on it.

Q:my 98 expedition keeps over heating, i replaced the water pump, thermostat,coolant. it will be fine one minute then it overheats. weather im on the road or sitting at a light. i also replaced the fan clutch. thanks!: If you have the 5.4L motor it will have a plastic intake manifold. Look at the front. There is an aluminum crossover pipe attached to the front on the top. Those are famous for leaking aroung where the intake meets the head and where the aluminum and plastic meet. You may need a flashlight and a small inspection mirror to check all the way around. Also if the valley or apace between the heads has coolant sitting in it that's a good bet you have a leaking crossover or a head temp sensor leaking. The head temp sensors are located at the back of the heads. The other common spot for coolant to leak is the heater hoses be sure to check at all the fittings and make sure they haven't come apart up by the firewall. One last thing to check is the belt around the water pump pulley. It is easy to put it on so the water pump spins the wrong way. Common mistake. Lastly if the manifold IS leaking do NOT attempt to do this if you do not have a top notch torque wrench!!! You can very easily strip the bolts or holes that are in the heads. If you are not sure take it to a good technician. Dorman makes a good replacement manifold for about 200-300 bucks. The gaskets are made onto it. I have had no issues with that one leaking. Also do not try to relpace just the crossover... I know that it has bolts and they sell gaskets but it will leak. If the manifold needs to come off it is also a great time to change the plugs. They will be super easy at that point, be sure to use new Injector o-rings too. Hope that helps. Jim

Q:94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks: Pay an automotive repair shop to do it. Then it is their problem. Even the best technicians need help once in a while. Yes it costs 3x as much, but no more headache for you.

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