• Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation System 1
  • Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation System 2
  • Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation System 3
Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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          Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

1.Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Description

The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.

2.Main Features of Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Attractive design

High efficiency, steady performance

•Big capacity, medium pressure

High concentricity of components

3.Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm IrrigationSpecification

Casing

Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S

Impeller

Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel

Shaft

C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel

Wearing Ring

Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel

Capacity/Q

Up to 25000m3/h,

Up to 110000gpm

Head/H

Up to 280m,

Up to 800 feet

Temperature/T

Up to 200degree

Speed/n

2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm

3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm

4.Picture of Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

 

 

Q:hiI have very low pressure only on the hot water in my kitchen sink. Cold water is fine. Can anyone recommend a water pump/power shower i can use for boosting my hot water in the kitchen sink tap?Ive already tested the faucet by swapping the water supplies.thanks
Why do you need high pressure from the hot tap?
Q:can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
On a '95 Intrepid equipped with the 3.5L 24-valve V6, the timing belt needs to be removed to access the water pump. The water pump itself only has three bolts securing it to the block. To access the timing belt, only requires removing the A/C compressor belt, and then the alternator/power steering pump belt, if I recall correctly. The trickiest part of the job will be re-installation. The timing belt tensioner is located on the bottom right/front corner of the engine, which requires being compressed and held with a paper clip. I wouldn't recommend this as a do-it-yourself type job if you do not know how to re-time the engine.
Q:I own a Camaro 1995 V6 3.4L automatic, it was diagnosed that the water pump was leaking and I was going to take it in on Saturday 3/1/08. But this morning I drove it and it seem that the car is losing power the RPM goes all up to 4-5 thousand to make a speed change. The car seems to stall like if it gets stuck the RPM goes up and eventually the next speed kicks in. I will be taking the car in tomorrow 2/27/08 to see whats wrong but I was hoping maybe someone knows whats wrong so that I can have an idea before someone tries to take advantage of me. I do know that the car started leaking water/coolant more than before after that little drive in the morning.The car is very well kept oil change is always on time .I always make sure that the water and the oil is level. transmission fluids are clean. I do know that the EGR Valve needs to be replaced. (hope this info helps)thank you
You may have got it hot and blown a head gasket. That would take away the power as it got hotter.
Q:I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
Yes, a missing, or broken bolt on the water pump can cause a leak. Either way, if you are showing coolant from the bolt hole, or around the gasket area, it is most likely due to the seal not being tight with the missing, or broken bolt. You must check to see if possibly the bolt has broken off, and not merely been left, or worked out. Most times when a bolt appears to be missing, it is broken, and part still remains in the threaded part. If this is the case the water pump must be completely removed to get the broken bolt out, and then install a new gasket, and all the proper bolts. Tighten them to the proper specifications. It doesn't hurt to use a gasket sealer when you install the new gasket. It's messy, but I find the best to be Form-a-Gasket #2. This is a non-hardening gasket sealer, and very sticky. It is actually much better to use than silicone, but not easier. To check to see if you have a broken bolt just stick a pin, or toothpick into the hole to see if it will go deep into the threaded portion of the mount. In your pictures it appears that there is nothing behind the mount lug, so a pin, or toothpick should go completely through the hole. If the bolt is broken off with the threaded portion still in the mount you will feel it with what you use to probe the hole.
Q:how much would they charge me to change a water pump on my 1999 cadillac deville
2 or 3 hours of labor depends on the shops labor rate if it is a northstar it is on the drivers front of the engine by the rad hose (inside the crossoverpipe) or if it is the older engine it is on the pass side side by the drive belt (thin and long)
Q:Is it a must to change the entire water pump since only driplets of anti-freeze leak out over a 7day period from the bottom of the pump? Can i simply change the gasket and make it all better? Water pump is pumping and making no noise, vehicle isnt over heating.
That drip is from a weep hole at the bottom (Underside) of the water pump it is designed to start to leak when the bearing on the water pump is wearing out. It will need to be changed. IF it is truly the gasket that is leaking then take the cheap insurance while you have it apart and put a new water pump on anyway. It just may be the best time to do so on a 2002 vehicle and could keep you from having trouble later down the road
Q:I just opened up the water pump on my '86 cr250 and found it to be pretty dry. Found out why as soon as I threw some light on it. Yep, all but a TINY hole in both hose nipples (?) are completely gunked up in some nice light green/white crap.Does anybody know what this is? Okay obviously it's coolant, but why is it so dry? What causes it? My bike never quot;overheatedquot;, but there's very little travel room for the liquid. What should I do now? Clean it out and run new water through it?
Appears your cooling system has not been flushed for years thus the build-up of slime, (seems maybe even 'dry-slime'). The cooling system should be flushed clean, a new water pump and gaskets installed.
Q:water pump went out how do we find it where would it be located?
If you can't see it on the engine. It may be behind the timing cover. Many engines are now set up that way. The timing belt also runs your water pump. And if you have to replace the water pump. You will also replace the timing belt. Which is a good idea any way .Since a 2001 may have many miles ,and just about ready for the belt to break. Leaving you stranded.
Q:water pump contents
contents no, replace component.
Q:What is the difference between self-priming and non self suction?
Non self suction is the ordinary water pump for the water inlet pipe, but the flow of water is small,Self suction for the water inlet no water (that is, 4, 5 floor water, no water on the 6 floor), it uses the principle of negative pressure to suck up the water

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