• API 610 Chemical Centrifugal Oil Pump( Crude Oil/ Heavy Oil) System 1
  • API 610 Chemical Centrifugal Oil Pump( Crude Oil/ Heavy Oil) System 2
  • API 610 Chemical Centrifugal Oil Pump( Crude Oil/ Heavy Oil) System 3
API 610 Chemical Centrifugal Oil Pump( Crude Oil/ Heavy Oil)

API 610 Chemical Centrifugal Oil Pump( Crude Oil/ Heavy Oil)

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: China

  • Model Number: AY

  • Theory: Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure: Single-stage Pump

  • Usage: Oil

  • Power: Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Pressure: Low Pressure

  • Application: Oil Plant

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Wooden case
Delivery Detail:45 days

 

 

Specifications:
1) Features:
a) High efficiency
b) Six kinds of structures
c) Uses 45, 56, 70 bearings
d) Universal parts, refined materials


2) Applications:
a) Petrochemical
b) Chemical industry
c) Power plant
d) Refiney


3) Technical data:
a) Flow: 6.3-600cbm/h
b) Head: 33-365m
c) Medium temperature: -45 - 400oC
d) Operation pressure: ≤4MPa
e) Diameter: 40 - 250mm

 

Q:I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!
can't tell you the price, don't know where you live and where you get yoiur work done, call around.. belts need to be replaced when they're worn. look for cracks, frays and listen for squealing. (sometimes the water pump will squeal when it's bad...) otherwise, take the car in to someone you trust and have them look at it..ESTIMATE only..
Q:PUMP RUNS BUT DONT PUMP WATER
I am not completely sure but i'll share my thoughts. I'm not certain but I think the water tank should have a seperate fill up. If your filling your fresh water tank and nothing is coming out of your faucet, my guess would be the water pump. Check and see if there is a reset button on your water pump switch. If not there should be a breaker for it located somewhere in the camper. But if you screw your water hose in to your camper and there is constant water pressure then there should be some water without having to use the water pump. If not then I'm stumped..
Q:I think my water pump has crapped out on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee. I have been leaking coolant for a few days now and there is a puddle under my Jeep after I turn it off and my reserve tank keeps emptying out on me. I replaced the lower radiator hose and still the same problem. It is not over heating so I am wondering if it IS a water pump problem? If it is, could I do the work myself?
Alright, 1997, more than likely it's a 4.0, I6 engine... the water pump is a little difficult to get to... because the amount of special tools that you would need, because you have to take off the fan that is connected to the water pump, which you need special tools for. and most tools that you can get for home won't do the job for pulling the pump off. First, to see if it's your water pump... take your belt off the engine... Just one pully will do, and then spin your FAN that is connected to your water pump... if you hear a metal sound like the bearings are no longer good, then you need a new one. Now the most common problem is your thermostat gasket would blow out, if it's the I-6 engine, right on the front on the top is where that is. Look around there to see if there is evidence of a leak, you would also want to look around the water pump cause it just could be the seal. that would eventually get to the ground from there too, You would not probably want to try anything except maybe a hose or a thermostat seal on your own, it's best to do the rest in a shop... just in case, because anything can happen, even when it's a professional. but if they break it on you they have to replace it for free. Unless you have All the tools that you could need, you shouldn't try to do it in your driveway. Good luck and I hope it's not really your water pump!
Q:I think the water pump is going out in my truck can I still drive it short distance if I put water in it first?
Depends on how bad the water pump is. Is it getting really hot already? Is it leaking water really bad? Answer yes to either one of these and you would probably be best to get it towed to the shop. Most vehicles now have aluminum heads, and over-heating the engine can easily lead to a warped head. That is going to be a whole lot more expensive to fix than what it would cost for a tow. If it holds water and doesn't get too hot, give it a try if it's a short distance, just keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Pull over before it gets into the red zone.
Q:can you give me some information?
Little Giant makes a good, reliable, reasonably priced water pump. You can get them at Grainger, MSC and I'm sure many other places.
Q:Pump pumping small is what happened?
You are lifting pump or submersible pump ah? Lift pump before pumping water pump, first open the pump and then open the outlet valve, and if there is no pressure, it is time to leave, the sealing performance is not good, check where leakage, and perhaps your pump is broken
Q:Where is the water pump located on a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8 motor
Your water pump would be located on the right hand side of the motor. It has the fan belt running on the pulley in front of it the top water hose is connected to it. I hope this has helped you out.
Q:Would a bad water pump make a whinning sound when the engine is reved.....ive checked everything off as to why my car is running so hot and im down to the water pump.....ive put a New thermostat....no leaks anywhere.....no oil in coolant....no coolant in water.....no white smoke.....Fans do turn on.....new colant and i bleed the air out.....but the engine is still running really hot....my car calls for about 13 quarts of coolant but upon refil it took only about 4 quarts...... .. . uld this be signs of my water pump failing.....the pump is not leaking and when i took the housing off the water pump and turn the engine the blades did rotate...but at a higher rpm with the car together i heared weird noies kinda like a whinning sound from the water pump.....1995 Oldsmobile Aurora194,000Northstar 4.0 V8
NOTE... GM had a problem with the radiators filling with crap. If you can't put 13 qts. of coolant in it then you have a plugged radiator. Replacement is required.
Q:I have a well water pump and the motor seems to just run but won't transfer water through the line, checked for leakage, etc but no signs. Even tried priming it but it does nothing. Any idea of what could be wrong or how to repair this problem?
. do you have air pressure tank inline of your system ? bet it lost its precharge. Put air gauge on it most are set about 30 psi .. They are usually labeled. For psi
Q:I am replacing the water pump and want to know exactly where the two o-rings go
There are several rubber seals on a water pump. The biggest irregular shaped seal is obviously for the main portion of the pump (this can not be misinterpreted for something else). The next in size is the o-ring for the thermostat. And 2 additional O-rings (one smaller than the other) are for the return pipes. While removing/pulling out the pump, take care that the pipes do not get pulled outward by the pump. And when putting in the pump just gingerly align the pipes to the holes in the pump and you are good to go.

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