• 100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • 100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • 100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board System 3
  • 100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board System 4
100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board

100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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100% Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board

 

Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.

Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.

 

 

 

 

100% Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board

 

Sound and Weather Resistant:

Karmeen fiber cement boards deliver optimal sound and weather insulation. Noise as well as changing weather conditions such as freeze / thaw, heat and water pose no threat to fiber cement board. The boards retain their shape at all times.


Low Maintenance:

The ability of the boards to resist mold and algae attacks is equally impressive. The result is a long-lived façade that saves you time and effort on inconvenient and costly repairs and repaints. 


Non-combustible:

The boards are non-combustible, which is your guarantee for a safe building.


Easy Handling:

Karmeen fiber cement boards are flexible and easy to handle. They can be delivered cut to size, ready for installation. All this makes for lower construction costs, shorter construction times, and lower installed costs. 

 

Board Edge:

100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board 

 

 

Packaging Details:
Fumigation wooden pallets+PE cover + corner protector

100 percent Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board

 

100% Without Asbestos Fiber Cement Board

 

Q:it'll probably be another week of them grinding the cement floor and cutting wood boards inside the house until all the wood is installed. there is wood and cement dust EVERYWHERE, and a lot of the downstairs is still just cement and the dust is on that too, so vaccuming/sweeping it isn't really an option, plus the fact that our furniture from the living room which they're laying the wood in now is all in the familyroom and kitchen and can't be moved to sweep underneath. there is a thick layer of dust on EVERYTHING, and we're also coughing from it. is there anything i can do to get rid of this dust without disturbing it with a duster? is there some sort of stuff i can spray that will dissolve the dust?
Vacuuming HAS to be an option if you're going to try to live with this situation. A good shop vac with adequate filtration for such a fine particulate as concrete dust is necessary, and should be used as frequently as necessary, and changed as it gets clogged up, to maintain habitability. You really don't want to be breathing this dust for extended periods. Wear good dust masks while you're in these spaces.
Q:Has anybody made a claim for and been paid for the cement board siding class action lawsuit?
Dont okorder has some good examples of past class action lawsuits and for a really good read, read Grisham's the king of Torts. Right now I am actually a part of a class to recover FOREX fees on my credit card. I have lost probably a few hundred dollars i expect to be granted $5! Wahoo!
Q:how do you join cement board from a shower wall to drywall?
Other than being nailed to the same stud, it is not all that necessary that they be joined together. Just figure on the tile overlapping the drywall about a half an inch to kill the crack. You can mesh tape them together however and skim them flat with each other as long as you don't skim wide into the tile board area. You could do as little as just caulk the crack with silicone too.
Q:I have Joint Compound and cement board tape, How do i fix a 6 inch hole in drywall? Anything else I Need?
Do not use a cement board tape it is thicker that wall board tape. If you have a 1x board you can fit a short pc behind it also w/ screws and fill in the hole w/ a small pc of dry wall and then tape over it . Just another way to go GL
Q:How about wood wire cement board? Is it environmentally friendly building materials?
The combination of lignocellulosic and Portland cement produces a non-toxic building material plate that does not contain any volatile toxic substances such as asbestos and formaldehyde. Wood fiber cement board will not produce any harmful substances, excellent environmental performance. Wooden cement board contains 71% Portland cement, 19% mineralized wood fiber, 9% moisture and 1% binder. Wood fiber cement board conforms to ASTM E 136 non-flammable building materials standard, excellent structural performance. Soaked in water is not layered, stable uniformity. Wooden cement board can be cut, planing, grinding, drilling, threading, and can be fixed with nails or screws
Q:Cement board can not wet paste
Simple approach: with a plastic film about a square meters or so, and then closed to the cement floor on the closure, 12 hours later to see if there is no water mist, the film inside the presence of water beads and other phenomena, no words that dry good
Q:I am trying to anchor a woody climbing wall to a cinder block garage wall and have settled on anchoring boards into the cinder blocks then building from there. so anything anchored there would be sharing a load of me-200 lbs, the plywood base and frame - 50lbs. plus any force generated by my jumping around on it.
The blocks themselves are designed to carry a deadload from top to bottom. The walls of your blocks are to thin to carry any outward pressure, like you bouncing on it. I wouldn't trust cinder blocks to hold wall anchors. If you try to hammer-drill the middle of a cinder block, it will shatter. Anchor your boards vertically to the wall so that the floor is carrying any downward force. It would be best to install a deadman board to the ceiling joists which would hold your vertical boards tight to the wall. Anchors in the mortar joints would assist to carry the load more than anything else. Big fat toggle bolts would suffice in the application I described here. Edit, Use expansion bolts, or PL400 construction adhesive with concrete nails to secure wood to the floor. It also occours to me, you could just frame up a stud wall in front of the block wall. Anchor it to the floor with glue and nails, or expansion bolts, and nail it to the ceiling joists up top.
Q:hi my daughters room has cement sheeting (panels) that make up her walls and roof and it looks really bad. I can see the joining lines even though its been painted over - do i have to remove all the walls and have the walls re plastered? is there any handy hits to fix this up? not sure you could putty up the lines and sand back as the boards currently up have big grooves - i did think about wood paneling around the room but you would still have the roof issue and the board lines above the panels - looking for a cost effective solution. Thanks heaps
Try papering with a heavily embosses paper. This will hide any cracks and lines. Use a different pattern for the ceiling.
Q:I have a bare concrete/cement floor. After I installed Travertine on one section, it is almost 1/2 inch above the floor. Now, I want to continue to install the other section of the floor with laminate wood, but the floor is too low compared to the travertine floor. The question are: Can I put down a particle board over the concrete/cement floor, then a foam pad (moisture barrier), then laminate wood?Will the particle board absorb water then swell up?Or do I need to put down the moisture barrier foam first, then particle, then laminate wood?If I am not using the particle board, the laminate wood floor will be about 1/8 lower than the travertine floor. is it ok?
Do NOT use particle board. There is no reason, as the laminate can be laid over the concrete with the proper padding. The particle board may swell and cause you issues down the road. Check the instructions on the flooring. Some require a plastic vapor barrier under them, while others only need the padding. 1/8 is not a big deal. The transition strip will bridge the difference. Be sure to check for peaks and valleys in the concrete, and fill in low spots. This will prevent the tongues on the planks from snapping off, leaving gaps in the floor. Allow the laminate to acclimate to the basement for a week or so before installing. Hope this helps. EDIT: You don't need anything under the flooring except vapor barrier or padding. They are designed to be able to be installed on a concrete base. Good luck.
Q:i would also like to know what products might help me. Thanks :) Oh, and the type of board i got is called hardi-bord... i didnt know if that might help.
wow, some of these answers are terrible, I like the one where the guy says dont worry about taping and mudding the seams or the other one that said just double up the backerboard lol. Anyway, you should have a vapor barrier of some sort. Since you already put up the backerboard, you should tape and mud the seams then put a coat of Redgard(made by Custom Building Products, at Home Depot) over the backerboard. You can paint it on, its very easy. As far as the electrical box, if it was dry before then I would leave it as long as its not wrapping around any plumbing pipes.

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