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FAQ

How do I know the pump pressure?
That is, the rated pressure minus the pipe loss, and then less inlet pressure (generally suction pump inlet pressure is negligible), that is the working pressure.The head of a centrifugal pump is also called the pressure head of a pump. It is the energy gained by the pump of the unit weight and the fluid. Pump head size depends on the structure of the pump (such as the diameter of the impeller, the bending of the leaves and so on, speed. At present, the pressure head of the pump can not be calculated accurately in theory, usually measured by experimental method.
Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?
Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ impeller, its outer diameter is not the same, 60HZ impeller slightly smaller. Because the speed of the impeller of 60HZ is faster, the impeller is a little smaller.Flow rate and speed, impeller diameter into a relationship: Q1/Q2 = n1/n2=D1/D2;Head and speed into two relations: H1/H2 = (n1/n2) 2Motor shaft power and speed into three relations: P1/P2 = (n1/n2) 3From the above deduction, we can know that the motor speed formula is n=60f/p, in which n is motor synchronous speed, and F is supply frequency. P is the pole number of the motor. It is known that the power supply frequency of the motor is proportional to the speed of the f. Therefore, to obtain the same head or flow, high speed, to use a smaller impeller.
I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?
My philosophy on thermostats is if I don't have a reason to suspect trouble with it I don't change it. Thermostats don't have any particular life expectancy - the one in my daughter's Accord is 18 years old and works better than new aftermarket thermostats I have tried. I haven't replaced a thermostat in about 15 years. They are often blamed but (until recently, with the introduction of fail open thermostats) rarely at fault. EDIT - I also agree with BR549, although for a different reason. Professionals have to work somewhat differently than DIYers because of where the costs fall. I would rebuild a starter and it would be a lot better than a store-bought rebuilt, but a pro would be taking on unnecessary risks if he didn't replace the starter. His perspective splits the question in two: should the thermostat be replaced during coolant service, and should a professional mechanic replace the thermostat during coolant service? I answer no to the first and yes to the second. The replacement may actually be a step down from the one we know works, but it is also the safer way for a pro to go.
As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
You can just jack up the motor from the oil pan with a floor jack with a piece of wood instead of removing the studs, just needs to go up a inch to get the bracket and water pump off.
i started backing out of my garage and something sounded like it poped then lots of steam started coming out and water was on the ground on the right side of the car non on the left and the water pump needle in my car is all the way to the red can some one help me
The neeedle is not the water pump. It is the temper of the water. If it go to the red you stop driving the car and turn off the engine. Most like the T-stat stuck close and did not open up to cool the engine. It takes up to five minutes to over heat the engine and the steam to build up and blow a hose apart. If you had to add water because of a leak. Should had it check out. Or the temper gage was going pass half way. It a water leak or a bad T-stat. Is not something you want to put off. Icould be the water pump you head pop if it had a metal sound. The car cannot be drove unless you want to burn up the engine It needs to be tow to a Shop for skill mechanices to check it out.
My car was is leaking antifreeze. One guy told me without even l putting it up in the air to check it that it was the radiator. The second guy I took it to said it is the water pump. He told me a total of six hundred sixty one dollars to replace it. I went to pep boys and was told eight hundred sixty two. I have a 2000 grand am se.
those are hard to work on but not that hard to work on,id shop around i do those for around 350 bucks all the time,they are hard to put on,but there has to be a limit on how much the job is worth,that's almost what the car is worth,you can get it doe a lot cheaper than that,just by shopping around on prices,good luck with it.
I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why? Problems started when our car overheated due to neglecting to refill the coolant a while back. The coolant tank got cracks in it and we had to replace it- but now the water pump is leaking, says my husband- should we just replace the water pump or could this be a bigger problem? Why is it leaking all of a sudden now? (please no snarky rude answers , I'm looking for help not to be scolded! Yes we neglected to add more coolant-- damage is already done so don't bother making a ridiculous comment about it!)Thanks!
water pumps go out all the time and we have no control over them.It is a good idea to service the cooling system once a year,draining the radiator and flush out the complete system .But anyway when you replace the pump it would be a great idea to do just that being that winter is coming up in a few months.Also you never mentioned what type of vehicle you are talking about,someone else mentioned a timing belt ,it really depends on the year make and model but that is some good info also. I hope this info helps ya out.
The water pump needs to be able to pull up water roughly 8+ feet. Ideally the system should include a filter to eliminate the presence of jellyfish. I need the most cost efficient solar panels with wattage provided. The battery used would be something similar to a deep cycle marine battery. Additionally I must figure out the amphours. Does anyone know where I can look up previously constructed systems or my best method of approach. Whom should I seek help from? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The price range we're looking at is around $1000.
Dude okorder / You can visit them there, its got more info, i recommend call them and talk to a specialist. Good luck with the sweet aquarium!