Q:I bought a salt water filter system for my inflatable pool(14' X 40deep) and filled it up with 80 pounds of salt as the directions call for. Unfortunately Intex did not design the pump correctly and it leaks.There is supposed to be some copper ion exchange with the water as it goes through the system. I returned the salt water system. Since salt is a natural bacterial fighter by itself, can I just add salt once in a while and keep the water salty and use the filter pump that came with the pool? You never see lakewater(which is a little salty) with algae in it unless it is stagnant. With a filter pump this would not happen as the water is being filtered frequently.

I don't think you or others really understand a salt water chlorination unit. The salt is added to the pool water through water circulation of the pool water the ION unit water passes past these two electrodes which in turn give off a chlorine gas which becomes the chlorine requirements for the pool On the ioniser is a dial that is set to a required setting to do with the volume of certain sized swimming pools. Even though one has this unit connected to their pool, they still have to add chlorine to their pool of the chlorine level isn't enough. This can be done in various methods, via a floating skimmer or have pellets put in hair lint pot or scattered over the pool surface, once dissolved in a bucket of warm water. Just by leaving the salt in the water as you suggest won't really do much other than help keep the water salty! This is my opinion I'll not get into a wage or wars over who is right who is wrong! Your trying to get others on your side, because you made the wrong choice purchased a salty pool chlorinator pump your dis- satisfied with your choice I am not going to agree or disagree with your statement other that to say your putting your families health at risk being a skin flint! So you think your doing the right thing, by putting your families health at risk for the sake of a few lousy dollars. Do it properly have a professional to come connect it all up for youin a proper manner!! Surely your families health means a lot more to you than risking a few lousy bucks on the proper unit! Cheers!!

Q:Does a Insurance policy cover if your Well water pump burns out from power outage and breaks seal and burns motor?

Not from power outage. Sometimes, depending on how your policy is written, from lightening strike.

Q:I have built my own spray rig to water some stock and tanks and a garden. It is a 330 gallon tank and has a spout at the bottom that i am going to connect a multi purpose pump to. My question is what size pump would i need? I have been looking at Atwoods and Tractor Supply and have seen some 2.1 GPM and a 5 GPM pumps i just don't know which would best suit me. i am planning on having the tank on the trailor and running water hose to a sprinkler or two. I would like to know how man sprinklers are possible on this type of system and still keep good pressure. Thanks for any answers.

It all depends on the size hose you will be using. Anything under a 1 inch will not work well. The pumps you listed are not going to do the job. I can pee more than 5 gals in a minute...lol You need to look into pool pumps and a 3/4hp might do. You will have to reduse from 1 1/2 in to the one inch. Just don't use under one inch. Good luck!

Q:37KW how many contactors does the pump need to start directly?

Direct start requires 250A contactor.Contactor is divided into AC contactor (voltage AC) and DC contactor (voltage DC). It is applied to power, power distribution and power consumption. Contactor broadly refers to the use of coils in industrial electricity that flow through the current to produce a magnetic field, so that the contacts are closed so as to control the load of the appliance.

Q:Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?

Well first of all thermostates don't make leaks, -- unless they don't open, in which case boiling makes water run out! And of course it could be waterpump, it could also be radiator hoses, and radiator itself, as well as heater hoses, and heater core! In extreme case it could even be head gasket going bad! (But defiantely it will be under the hood!) You just have to check things out an see where it is coming from! Waterpump has a weep hole underneath main housing, -- if it is dripping from there,- the seal in WP is bad. But rest of things should be easy to see if you look carefully! If you have very much water leaking get it fixed quickly, and keep it full, and watch temperature carefully, if it starts overheating shut down engine quickly! If you drive overheated you WILL blow head gasket, and if going even further- too hot, it will expire engine! This is very expensive!

Q:Here we have 3 sets of centrifugal pumps, as production water, 2 by 1, because the production is not allowed to stop, so we want to change for a pump, the original two pumps to stop, and three water pumps on the amount, and then stop the pump, but not on the third pumps the amount, do not know what the reason, the master to help, thank you very much..

You should look at the suction port of the pump, there is no check valve, if there is water will not flow back to the pump bodyIf the pump is not water and not bad, the main reason is that the pump does not flush water, or suction pipe into the air

Q:Level 200 meters distance, elevation 30 meters, how much lift water pump?

Lift is usually used to overcome vertical height and pipe loss. Now you can determine the vertical height of 30 meters, 230 meters long pipeline losses but you lack of data not calculated. With the following conditions can be calculated: 1, flow; 2, pipe diameter; 3; pipeline material; 4, elbow number; 5, valve types and quantities.

Q:I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.

Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.

Q:My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.

Sounds like the vertical check valve between the end of the pump line and the pressure tank is bad and allowing the water to go back down the pipe when the pump isn't running. Papaw

Q:I recently got the water pump replaced on a 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL (3.5L V6), and ever since the temperature gage seems to be running higher...between half way and the 3rd line, where before it was replaced it never got above the second line. It is doing this when I slow down and stop at lights. Once I get going the temperature does drop. Is this normal, or did they do something wrong?

If you had it done at a shop take it back. Alot things can make a car run hotter. Could be as simple as an air pocket in the cooling system or a leaking head/intake gasket. Did you over heat the engine when the water pump went out? If so the temp sending unit could be bad.