Q:The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out

Water pump life is a direct function of proper maintenance, therefore there is no real answer to your question. At 89k you could certainly elect to replace the WP as long as the T-Belt is also being done, but it is purely a preventive maintenance item. Might save you a lot of money later, or it might not. Impossible to say. It will give you more peace of mind though.

Q:can't get the pulleys to line up I know I have a mid 70's 400 and the water pump is later than 1969 but I can't find a pulley that works every one is about a half inch off I bought a aftermarket set of underdrive pulley's from march performance and still the same problem the water pump is a half inch off there was no long or short water pump right they are all the same lenght right??? The only difference I know of is that pre 1968 the pumps have a 8 bolt design and after they have a 11 bolt design is that right???

did you happen to loose the aluminum spacer between the water pump output shaft, and the fan pulley?

Q:As I wrote last night, I have a Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L 4X4. I guess I misunderstood my husband. I talked to him this morning and he said that it did overheat but the gauges on the inside of the car wasn't showing that it was overheating. It wasn't spewing coolant but the coolant that was just filled up a couple of weeks ago is empty. Does anyone know what the problem is?

Sounds like it has to be leaking somewhere OR maybe you didn't fill it enough with coolant?

Q:Recently my ford aerostar van started pouring water from the weephole of the waterpump and all my oil was just disappearing leaving just foam on the dipstick...we drained what oil was in it and there was antifreeze in the oil so we figured it was a blown head but it it possible for antifreeze to leak into the oil due to a bad waterpump?

Not usually. You probably have a head gasket problem. If its a high mileage van you may not have ruined the engine yet. Coolant in the oil will destroy the bearings and other wear surfaces. Was the engine noisy? Did you run it a long time with the problem. About 90% of the time the engine is trashed. If the repair estimate is over $700, get a rebuilt engine or a used one.

Q:how do u know when u need to replace ur water pump or how do u know when its not working??? thanks

You'll know when your engine overheats especially when the temp gauge hits H. If you suspect it isn't working just get it replaced and save your engine damaging itself due to overheating.

Q:Hello,Thanks for looking into my question. I am a little confused on the definition of a submersible water pump. I am assuming that they are actually submerged but that sounds a bit unlikely in my mind. I suppose if it has a GFCI setup built in with everything sealed beyond the portion that pumps, it would work submerged without any risks involved.Are submersible water pumps meant to be fully submerged? I am mainly interested in this information because I am concerned about the amount of noise they make, being submerged seems likely that they would not be able to be heard. Thanks.

they all make noise. my Ex had them all, arrrgh!

Q:My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks

Hmmmmm. I think I would look at the pressure switch here if you can confirm that the well does have adequate water in it. The next thing is the small pipe that the pressure switch mounts on. If it is galvanized these have a tendancy over the years to build up deposits and rusty scale and may need to be replaced. It sounds like you have the bladder style of pressure tank and that is a good thing. To check the proper pressure in the bladder watch to see the cut off pressure of the pump as it cycles. Note this. Turn the pump off and completely drain off the pressure tank. Check and adjust the pressure at the top of the Wel-Trol to be 2 to 4 pounds less than the pressure cutoff that you noted using compressed air. As the other posts have mentioned you also may have a leak in the pressure line to your house. The way to test this is turn off all the water to the house and see if there is a check valve in the T at the pressure tank. It will look like a tube about 2 inches in diameter and 4 inches long. Usually there is not one here as they clack when the pump shuts off. If there is not one note the pressure. See if it drops. There should be no drop. If it is a drilled well there may be a leak in the pipe down the well and this usually requires a visit from a well servicing company to determine. Hope this helps.

Q:If I were to go to a shop, how much would it cost to replace my water pump? It's a 4.0 6 cyl engine.

$70-$150 +cost of pump. Most shops have certain maintenance hours for certain jobs. Call around for exact pricing. Honestly, if you have a sockets (metric) and wrenches you can do it yourself in about an hour or two, maybe less. You don't have to mechanically inclind to replace the water pump on the 97 Wrangler. If you do it, I do recommend buying a Haynes/Chilton's book if you don't really have a clue. If you need to buy the tools, book, pump (gasket should come with it), water pump RTV, and coolant. That will still be a lot cheaper than paying somebody. Plus, you will get the joy of doing it yourself. Also, you could put the savings into a high-flow pump, vice original equipment.

Q:Why should the water inlet of water pump be fitted with reducer?

Increasing the pipe diameter can reduce the resistance loss along the path and reduce the suction vacuum of the pump! Before the inlet of the pump is a big diameter, when you reach the suction port, and the pump inlet diameter to be consistent, so the use of reducer joints!

Q:I want to buy a 2000 Audi tt coupe that seems to be in good condition. The owner mentioned he has replaced the water pump. What could the reason be for having to replace the water pump? Could the car have over heating issues?

It probably did. Or he was doing regular maintenance. At least you wouldn't have to change it that's the good thing.