Axial Flow Propeller Pump

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Chat Online

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

Vertical Turbine Pump

High Pressure Water Pump

Water Pump For Water Wells

Sewage water pump, diesel engine, agricutrual water pump

LQFZ Self-priming Stainless Steel Anti-corrosive Centrifugal Pump

Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump

Axial Flow Propeller Pump

Propeller Pump Product description

QZ series axial flow pumps are modern products successfully designed through adopting foreign modern technology. The new pumps’ capacity are 20% larger than the old ones. The efficiency is 3%-5% higher than the old ones. QZ series pump with adjustable impellers has the advantages of large capacity, broad head, high efficiency, wide application and so on. Pump station is small in scale, the construction is simple and the investment is greatly decreased. This can save 30%-40% for the building cost. It is easy to install,maintain and repair this kind of pump. Low noise,long life.

Propeller Pump Application

QZ series axial-flow pump is applicable for water supply in cities, diversion works, sewage drainage system, sewage disposal project.

Propeller Pump Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 20 m³/h

Head: up to 20 m

Speed: max rpm

Temperature: max °C

Casing pressure: up to MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

Q:Any ideas on where and what type of water pump I should use for my 29 Gallon BioCube tank? It seems that the water pump is very loud and is not working the way it should. There are bubbles shooting the aquarium and I have tried everything to fix it. I am thinking of replacing the water pump all together. Any ideas on brands that would be compatible? Anyone else tried this? Please help...: ok before replacing have you cleaned the inside, and if there are air bubbles comming out it is because it is running dry. Basically all biocubes do this, the filter pad is slowing down the water too much, so either rince it well or replace it. Also i would wash out the blue sponge right before the pump as that can hold alot of dirt as well. Then if not add more water. But if you want to replace the pump, try via aqua water pumps. they tend to be the best. owner of the BC 29 and BC 14

Q:Does the IP55 indicate the lift on the water pump nameplate?: IP55 represents the waterproof and dustproof rating of the motor

Q:I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff: if it is powerful enough to power the pump then yes.

Q:What is the water pump population pre rotation, what harm?: Is the entrance of water flow in the formation of complex turbulent flow, flow direction, shock, vibration, easy to damage the front entrance device, such as vane impeller, shaft sleeve, sealing element.

Q:What is the influence of the speed of the pump motor on the pump?: Influence the parameters of pump flow and lift.

Q:can stress from to much weight cause the engine to get hot and cause your water pump to leak out the weep hole? and what else causes it to leak?: This could be normal wear-and tear. Poor cooling system maintenance will cause a water pump to fail premtutrely.

Q:Having a hard time taking out the water pump on my 2004 Grand Am. it's been leaking anti-freeze for some time and finally had the time to fix it. Didn't know it will be so difficult to take out. So hopefully it won't be so difficult to put back up.: You did not say if you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. The 6 is really easy so I will assume you have a 4.If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Removal in Engine Mechanical - 2.2L (L61). Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the front fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the access plate on the water pump sprocket from the timing cover. Install J 43651 to the water pump sprocket. Use the access plate bolts to secure J 43651 to the engine front cover. Remove the bolts that secure the sprocket to the water pump. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the engine block to the water pump. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the engine front cover to the water pump. Remove the feed pipe that joins the thermostat housing to the water pump. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the water pump to the engine block. Remove the water pump.

Q:I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?: Jadee is correct. Your pump is waterlogged. This is a condition where all the compressable air has mixed with the water in the tank and the tank is full of water clear to the top, not allowing for any compression, which is where you get the pressure to push the water out when you open a fixture. When you open a fixture, regardless of which one, the pump senses a drop in pressure immediately and starts up. As soon as you close the fixture, the pump, which is now pumping water into the tank, senses the pressure coming quickly to where it needs to be and shuts off. There needs to be air in the top of the tank to compress in order for the system to function. If you have a bladder tank, (usually a green or blue tank with an indented seam around the middle of it), then most likely the bladder that's in the middle of the tank to keep the air and water apart so they don't mix, has ruptured and is now allowing the very thing to happen that it was designed to stop. You can drain the system of pressure and most of the water by turning off the pump and repressurizing the tank thru the air nozzle on top or the top side. Open a couple fixtures and allow the water to escape as you put pressure into the tank, until you get air and the water quits. Then turn off the fixtures, turn the pump back on and let it pump up. That will give you an air cushion on top of the tank and will let you use the system till you can decide whether you want to replace the tank or just use it as a convential resevoir system of old, (before bladder tanks). The procedure to restore the system to functionality is the same if it's an older tank without a bladder, only you may have a drain spigot on that type of a tank that will allow for gravity drainage of the water, instead of pressurization. It's not an uncommon occurance for those of us on older wells that don't have bladder tanks. We have to drain and restart ours about once every year or two, depending on how much time the grandkids spend here.

Q:Theirs a house on a hill and a pond at the bottom of the hill what kind of pump can pull water 50ft up a hill?: A water suction style pump can only pull at maximum , 30 ft vertical (more like 25 with inefficiencies). You didn't specify if it was 50 ft vertical distance up the hill or just 50 ft from the pond on a grade with maybe a smaller than 25ft vertical height difference. If it is less than 25 you can use the cheap centrifugal pumps or diaphragm pumps located at the house. By far it is a better choice to use a pump at the pond to push the water uphill instead of pulling it. A cheap submersible sump pump (less than $70, for a 1/3 hp electric, like a Wayne or something) will pump uphill no problem and doesn't draw much current. If you want to keep the line continuously pressurized you will need a pressure tank in your house and a pressure switch to shut off the pump once it gets to predetermined psi setting If you have a true vertical 50ft distance you might want to install a positive displacement submersible pump in the pond. The more I think about it, the more I think a centrifugal pump (the cheapest design) would have a difficult time pumping 50 ft uphill. So go with a positive displacement style, the same type they put in wells. With the pump put directly in the water you don't have to prime the pump each time you start it either. These pumps do run several hundred dollars though

Q:I want to build a portable, working steam room display for trade shows. I need to feed water from a storage tank to a steam generator when it's called for. How can I do this? Is there a type of water pump that would work for this?: Be careful what you buy. Most aquarium pumps are AIR pumps. Why not just use a siphon? As long as the storage tank is higher than the generator it will work. Get a hose or plastic tubing of the size you need, put one end in the tank. Suck on the tubing to start flow. To stop flow just pinch off the pipe or raise the spout above the water level. you might even install a valve if the tubing is large enough.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range