• TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer System 1
TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer

TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

It adopt linear integrated circuit to form the control system, drive the contact voltage regulator to regulate automatically by controlling the servo motor, it is provided with delay、over-voltage、under-voltage and over-current protection function which ensure the voltage stabilizer can supply safely; It has the advantage of high fficiency、same input and output voltage waveform, stable output voltage, work continuously and so on.


Scope of Application

It is available in the electric equipments and facilities in housing、factory、school、shop、office、precision instrument for scientific experiment. And also is suitable for office equipment、test instrument、communication system、industrial equipment、armarium、domestic electric appliance and so on.


Main Advantage

Excellent output voltage waveform、stable regulating process、no lost electricity phenomenon;
High accuracy of output voltage, generally it is fixed in 220±3% when leave the factory, wide input voltage range、strong load adaptability; with satisfiable load property. It has(under-voltage)、over-voltage and over-current protection function; It can cutoff the power supply automatically to ensure the safety of the consumer when the output voltage is over-high or the input is over-current; It adopted high breaking capacity mini circuit breaker with the over-current protection function when it is over load or short-circuit; It use high property carbon brush which prolong the service life of the voltage stabilizer.


Main Technical Parameter
Overall Size & Weight(For reference only)

Note:property of this product is similar with the svc type product.


Q:I have a 1999 ford escort station wagon 4-cylinder 2 liter engine. i had a problem with the fuse that powers my dash lights and tail lights frying and the wirring to my ASl component are fried. now whenever i touch my brakes it blows multiple fuses so that my transmission locks up,my engine shuts off and will not start back up without new fuses. could my ASL component cause all of this to happen or is it the cars main computer messing up?
Sounds like a loom problem (wiring) , you could start by tracing the wiring back from the tail lights and look for any broken wiring and any wiring that should b bolted to the chassis. Hope this helps
Q:I have a 1988 Jeep Comanche Sportruck and all of the gas, speed, etc gauges are not working. The lights that lit up the gauges used to work before I recharged my battery, since the jeep was left sitting for a couple months. But ever since I had the truck none of the speed, gas, and all the rest of the gauges have been reading/ working anything at all. What could the problem be and how could I fix this myself before having to go to a repair shop? Thank you for your help I've had this problem for so long and it's just time for me to fix this.
Check fuses, if not a fuse, replace the dashboard gauge circuit board. DISCUSSION: Check the simplest and cheapest things first (fuses). If it is not a fuse problem, the easiest (and possibly the cheapest) step is to replace the dashboard gauges with parts from a junk yard. You might have blown the voltage regulator on the dash board (not the voltage regulator associated with the alternator). The difficulty of getting out the old dashboard gauges, and replacing a single component is slightly more than the difficulty of getting out the old dashboard gauges and replacing the who dashboard gauge circuit board, gauges and all. You might have also blown some gauges, so even if you fix one component, you might have to go back in to fix more. It is better to recharge the battery when it is disconnected from the car (to avoid the possibility of blowing out sensitive electronics such as dash boards).
Q:I have a 1992 ford f150 and it keeps blowing the fuse that controls the interior lights, the radio, the gauge lights, and the speedometer. Now don't say the speedometer hooks in with a cable because it doesn't. It's a clip of wires that plug into it. Anyway I have taken apart the entire dashboard and tested for grounds and everything is getting ground and I even found where it grounds on the body. Sometimes the fuse pops as soon as u put it in and sometimes it takes ten minutes. I looked at all the wires and nothing seems to be broken or chafed or crossed. It will pop even when the radio and gauge cluster is unplugged and I have wiring diagrams and the wires run through the light switch and even of that's unplugged the fuse pops. I am getting fed up with this thing. Been tryin to figure it out for an entire day and got nowhere. Help is very much appreciated
My first thought would be that you don't have a high enough rated fuse plugged in. I know they're color-coded AND stamped with the amp ratingbut are you sure it's the right one? Have you gone up a size to see if that helps? If you have a short, going from a 10- to 15-amp fuse, for instance, won't really run the risk of damage—it'll still blow. If you're confident about the rating or going up a notch doesn't help, you might have to disconnect everything on that circuit and plug the components in one-at-a-time until you find what blows the fuse. Once you have a suspect, pop in a new fuse and plug in just that one thing. If it blows again with nothing else on, you know where your problem is. Good luck!
Q:helloI was installing a GPS tracker in ford Mondeo so i needed 12+ volt from the car. and I take one from driver side under the plastic that' need to the driver knee. there I found many wires and I found red wire I took the 12v+ from it. but by mistaken that wire touched the car ground and now there's no electricity on it I've checked all fuses under the glove box and all fuses near to the engine and non of them was burned out please what should i do
There must be a blown fuse. The purpose of a fuse is to break the connection if the circuit becomes overloaded, this prevents electrical fires, and other dangerous situations. Blown fuses are not obvious if you just glance at the fuse box, you need to remove them in order to see the conductor. I would look at a wiring diagram, find the components on the diagram that are not working, and trace them back to the fuse number and location. This problem can only be a blown fuse or fuseable link.
Q:Any place I can find a fuse schematic for a 2005 Honda Met 2? My daughter crashed hers and ,as I was cleaning it up looking for damage, I found a fuse loose inside her radiator and I see an empty slot in the fuse box by the battery (which could be normal - I don't know). I'm guessing it'scondition that it has been there for sometime, but there is no way for me to be certain and I also want to ensure all the electrical components work as they should.She bought it used so she has no manual. Is there somewhere I can find out which types/sizes of fuses belong in each slot without buying a $50 manual? I've never had a problem getting this info on a car, but can't find it for a scooter.
The honda dealer parts dept can look up schematic 4 - you
Q:I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.
it fairly is a risk that some thing is incorrect with the the remainder of the wiring on your place. although, the electrician became not required to do something approximately any of your wiring aside from the couple of ft going into the breaker field if that cord regarded ok then he does not have any reason to alter it. truthfully rewiring the whole abode could fee way greater beneficial than $one thousand or $1200, an entire rewire ought to fee 5 or ten circumstances that lots. So the fee distinction probably has greater to do with him not having coverage, not having a employer truck to maintain, and/or only being greater desperate for some earnings. i could fee $600-800 for a job like that reckoning on what proportion circuits have been in contact and how lots difficulty it became going to be to instruct the potential off and reconnect it. once you're worried that rewiring does might desire to be achieved, take a glance on the insulation of the present wires and notice if curiously broken, or the right age to be brittle. If not, there is not any reason to think of it fairly is failing
Q:I have a component cable with an end for a ps3, xbox 360 and wii. If I plug a xbox 360 and ps3 into it and then plug it into my tv will something bad happen if I have both my xbox and ps3 on? Or will this even work at all.
I wouldn't try it - you won't blow up the whole block or even your whole house (worst that would happen to the house is a blown fuse or circuit breaker), but you could ruin either the PS3 or the Xbox 360 or both. I doubt it would hurt the TV, but I wouldn't try it anyway - why risk it? There's no reason to leave them all plugged in and turned on anyway - it surely wouldn't work, as the TV would not know which set of signals to display - the mix would be impossible for the TV to display even if no damage were done. Certainly don't power both units on at once, and I'd even keep only one device plugged in at a time just to be safe in case I forgot and did power up both devices at once just to be safe.
Q:For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
May be this will help you: ?A: Assemblies ?B: Transducers / Sensors / Detectors ?C: Capacitors ?D: Storage devices ?E: Miscellaneous ?F: Fuses ?G: Generator, battery pack ?H: Indicators, signaling devices ?J: Connector / connector pin Joining another connector (P) ?K: Relays ?L: Inductors and filters ?M: Motors ?N: Analogue devices ?P: Measuring / test point / connector plug ?Q: Transistors ?R: Resistors ?S: Switches, push buttons, emergency stops and limit switches ?T: Transformers ?U: Integrated circuits, Power converters, DC power supplies ?V: Electron vacuum tubes tubes ?W: Wires, conductors, power, neutral and earthing busses ?X: Terminal strips, terminations, joins ?Y: Solenoids, electrical actuators ?Z: Filters
Q:I lost headlights this morning, replaced bulbs and fuses, nothing. This afternoon my abs and brake lights came on, have brakes just not abs. Definitely a wiring issue, Question Where to start?????
Bulbs fuses okay, then check to see if there's power. If power seems okay, you've got a bad ground somewhere in the front end. A major ground that's bad could also mess with the other two components, if they're grounded at the same point.
Q:I have a 2004 Dodge, Durango. It has the stock 6 disc stereo, DVD, Sirrus combo. One of the kids left the light on one night and we had to jump-start the car. Since then the CD player will not work. Everything else works just fine. It is like the CD player doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this happen? Does anyone know how to fix it? I know i could take it to the dealer and they could probably fix it for a marginal fee. I was trying to avoid that route if I could. I am mechanically inclined so if it can be fixed I could probably do it. If it is something that is actually broken, I guess I am SOL.
Could have popped a fuse on the deck, but also may have damaged the power supply in the cd player by way of power surge.

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