• Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump System 1
  • Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump System 2
  • Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump System 3
Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

 

Operation parameters of Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

(1). Flow range: Q=6.3~450 m3/h

(2). Lift range: H=75~603m

(3). Diameter range: φ40~φ250mm

(4). Temperature range: 0 ~105°C

 

 

Product overview of Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

D pump is single-suction multi-stage sub-type centrifugal pump

(1). it is used to suction deliver water and the other liquid whose physical and chemical properties similar to water.

(2). If Change the material of  impeller , seal ring, shaft sleeve and other parts, they also can be used to pump corrosive media,the liquid maximum temperature should not exceed 80°C.

MD wear-resistant multi-stage centrifugal pump is a wear-resistant multi-stage centrifugal pump

(1). It is designed on the basis of D single-suction multi-stage water centrifugal pump .

(2). MD pump is efficient , energy saving , wear-resistant and reliable,

(3). Drain the mine well water whose solid  particle content is no more than 1.55 (particles diameter less than 0.5mm)and other similar liquid, the liquid temperature not exceed 80°C.

 

Product purpose of Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

(1). D, MD type multi-stage centrifugal pump is suitable for mine drainage, factory and city water supply. 

(2). DG type boiler-feed pump is suitable for small boiler, cities and towns water supply, and other occasions.

 

Product features of Multistage Boiler Feed Centrifugal Water Pump

(1). with high efficiency, small size and other advantages,

(2). the components insist on high-precision processing technology,

(3). pump shaft of quenching and tempering treatment,

(4). the entire pump with excellent performance,

(5). and the products meet GB/T5657-95( centrifugal pump technical conditions  standard

 

FAQ

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

Q:Hello,I have a Kia Spectra, 4 doors, automatic, 1.8, 2002, 64000 miles, and the alternator belt just broke. It seems that there is a chance that the water pump was lost on the process.I looked on line and to buy from the dealership, these pieces together would cost me around $70.What would it be a fair price for the service? (thinking that I was unlucky enough to lose the water pump?How do I know if my water pump is good and they are only changing it to make me spend more money???I am a girl (foreign student), and don't understand of car, or know any repair shop that could take care of that...Thanks!!!
Changing a water pump is usually costly because it can be time consuming. Having the belt on your car break should not cause your water pump to go out, but having your water pump go out could cause your belt to break. A way to check your water pump would be to make sure that the pully spins freely but that it does not wobble or have extra play. Another sign that your water pump is going bad is when it begins to leak. This means that the seals are bad, and that water can now get into the bearings causing them to degrade and eventually seize up.
Q:I was wonder if there is a water pump in the out drive, my boat is overheating we are think it could have something to do with the water pump
So far the only other answer is dead wrong. Your Bayliner has a raw water pump mounted inside the boat. Depending on HP it might be on the front of the crankshaft, or opposite the alternator on the AQ120-140 motors. Then there is a second water pump, which circulates the water through the block. There is no 3rd water pump. None of the Volvo engines have a water pump in the stern drive. I repeat none! The Raw water pump is a rubber impeller. The Thermostat can also be blocked and cause overheating. In some cases it's actually rust/crud that block the exhaust elbows which in turn blocks flow. If you run it on a flush attachment you might be able to check blockages by the amount of water exhausted from the transom/drive. You can edit your question with your specific engine. It takes 7 to 10 min to replace the water pump impeller. You do not have to prime the water pump....ever. Do not however run with out water. Either being in the lake,Bay. ocean, or using the correct flush attachment.
Q:does anyone know how to remove the water pump on an 84 corvette its killing me
take pictures during the removel process so to put every thing back together in reverse first remove shroud covering radiator.empty anti freeze from radiator into a drain pan and put it up out or reach from animals this will kill them than remove tranny lines from the radiator only,,, than remove radiator hoses at the radiator and water pump than remove radiator... next take fan belts off by losining altinator and moving it to take pressure off belts than remove belts if you have a serpentine belt get a chilton manual to find how to release tension from belt and remove belt take pictures so to put belt back on in reverse remove fan and pully off the water pump than remove bolts from water pump take water pump off than clean off all of the old gasket clean area with razer blade or scrapper with out damaging the flange.put new gasket and put every thing back together do not use gasket sealer a dry gasket will do..
Q:I have a small leak in my water pump and my check engine light is on throwing a P0303 code and it appears the two might be related.
This Site Might Help You. RE: Is it safe to use Bar's Leaks Cooling System Water Pump Lube? I have a small leak in my water pump and my check engine light is on throwing a P0303 code and it appears the two might be related.
Q:Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
Cooling systems are simple. There are only a few things you need to know to work a cooling system. 1 – Cooling systems consist of only a few parts. Thermostat, radiator, fan, and water pump. 2 – is it visually leaking? if yes fix leak. 3 – It is never the thermostat but it is a couple bucks so change it. 4 – is the water pump pumping. This is usually not the issue and the last thing to replace. Not to mention it is the most difficult to get to so do it last. 5 – is the fan working? 6 – Usually it is the radiator itself. The radiator is pressurized and if there is a pin hole leak your car will slowly overheat. It usually takes an hour or so of driving. Also many people like stop leak and use it as a solution when it is really a band aid. Many times people will find that they have reduced water flow because the previous owner used stop leak in the radiator. Take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop. Have them pressure test it and inspect it. Your problem is likely in the radiator.
Q:is there a surface water pump that can pump water from a 1000 foot well?
If what you mean with surface water pumps are those pumps mounted on the ground to distinguish them from submersible pumps , yes there are surface pumps that can pump water from a 1000 ft well. These are the so called jet pumps or deep well pumps wherein part of the output water is returned back to the bottom of the well pipe through the space between the outer pipe casing and the inner pipe and passed through a venturi opening to create an upward water jet which will push more water upward.
Q:It hasnt rain in quite a while, but I havent had any problems with the water or pressure, but it seems like the pump is always quot;onquot;. I purchased this house almost a year ago, never had a well, so I now very little about it. I moved in December, rain season here in NC, and remember the pump going on and off, now its constantly running, Is it normal for the pump to be running that much? any websites to read up on how a water well works?thanks
In the first place the pump should be able to run constantly without a problem, they're made to do this. In the second place go check your tank, see what the pressure is. You must have a water logged tank First: unplug the electric to the pump and then drain the tank completely. Once this is done make sure the tank is drained, plug it back in, wait and see where it stops at, the pressure. It should be about 55 to 65 pounds. When it stops have someone flush the toilet, it should slowly go down, it may settle without turning on, some do. If so, flush it again. Watch it again. When it starts up, keep your eye on it, it should go back to where it was to start with. If it doesn't then the volume control on the end of the tank, with the small tubing coming from it to the switch is out and should be replaced. You have to turn it all off again, drain the tank and replace the volume control. If the switch doesn't stop but, it comes to the end and doesn't open to stop and keeps running, then your switch control is shot and you'll have to replace that. If you have a bladder tank, it should say on the side, then you should empty the tank, as in the upper questions and then using an air pump put in about 38 pounds or whatever the tank says to put in the bladder, then fill it with water again. See if that's the problem.
Q:I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 v6 engine. My car has been overheating lately and my low coolant light came on so i put antifreeze in it and the light went off. I drove about 3 blocks and the low coolant light came back on again and the thermostat was at the hot mark so i checked the antifreeze and it was just about empty. I did noticed when I was pouring the antifreeze that some did run out the bottom of the car but it wasn't alot. Also I noticed that in the morning when I get up and drive my car the thermostat could be at cold but if I drive about 3 blocks it's almost at the hot mark. Please help me determine whats wrong with my car. Is my water pump bad?
You definitely have a big coolant leak someplace. Could be anything related to the cooling system. Do not drive this car or you will destroy your engine for could possibly be fixed with a few dollars, if it is a bad hose or something of the sort. Sounds like you should be able to find the leak without a pressur test, seeing how it runs low so quickly, but in any event, do not drive this vehicle and have a technician as soon as possible.
Q:the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
stick with the stock set up
Q:replaced water pump and thermostat, flushed, opened bleeder valve had long life red colored original coolant, no visible leaks obstruction, when became hot on highway, accelerated quickly and temp back down to norm, eventually after 3hrs driving o.heated stopped and got towed home, new water pumps fins/pulley not turning as freely as old one, no leak out of inspection hole, hoses good shape.2001 2.2l ohv sunfire, air cond.
yep it should be hot.and the top radiator should be hot too when the engine is hot. if the bottom hose is cold when the engine is hot then it sounds like a clogged radiator. try this. after you get the engine hot, shut it down and feel the fins on the radiator next to the fan. if you feel cold spots then the radiator is clogged in some places.

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