• Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability System 1
  • Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability System 2
  • Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability System 3
Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
300 unit/month

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Introduction of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

CZ series standard chemical pumps are horizontal, single stage, end suction type centrifugal pumps, in accordance with standards of DIN24256, ISO2858, GB5662, they are basic products of standard chemical pump, transferring liquids like low or high temperature, neutral or corrosive, clean or with solid, toxic and inflammable etc.

Working conditons of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Capacity: ~2000 m3/h 
Head: ~160 m 
Working pressure: ~2 .5 MPa 
Working temperature: -80ºC~+150 ºC 
Rotation direction: CW viewed from drive end


Application of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Mainly for chemical or petrol chemical area 
Refinery or steel plant 
Power plant 
Making of paper, pulp, pharmacy, food, sugar etc. 
Refinery 
Petrochemical industry 
Coal processing industry and low temperature projects 


Characterstics of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Hydraulic performance Spiral casing, single channel or double channel structure, to keep low NPSH, wide range of performance curve, stable operation, low noise, high pump efficiency, energy consu- mption saving.
Support Feet support can bear loads from outside and pass the load directly to the base. Thin oil lubrication for the bearings, constant bit oil cup control oil level, ensures bearing well lubricated to have better life span.
Impeller type and balance of axial force Closed impeller for CZ series pumps, most of the axial force was supported by back vanes or balance-hole, the other by bearing.
Shaft seal structure According to different purpose, seal can be packing seal and mechanical seal. Flush plan of the pump seal can be decided in accordance with API682, to ensure safe seal for different work conditions.
Serialization and universal property This series of pumps have 6 types of bearing support, 40 pump models. Except impeller and casing, all other parts can be interchangeable, especially pump cover and shaft seal, they are in high standardization and versatility.
Maintenance Back pull-out structure and extended coupling, ensure easy and convenient maintenance, the whole rotor part can be pulled out from back, no need dismantling inlet and outlet pipes and motor.

Q:50 meters deep well with what water pump: home?
For deepwater submersible pumps, ordinary submersible pumps are inefficient.
Q:I don't want to have to rent or purchase a electric pump to pump the water out of my pool so are there other ways to get the water out besides the obvious (a bucket and alot of people). I am really tight on money so purchasing a device to do the work isn't a real option but I really need to drain the pool without damaging it.
A garden hose will do it. Just make sure that the hose runs down hill at some point to siphon the water out. Make sure that one end is in the pool and one end is at a lower spot, street,yard ,drain wherever. Then suck on that end like a straw. It will work if you got the suction. Once the water starts to drain, it will continue draining until the pool is empty..Make sure your hose is long enough to reach the bottom of the pool once you get the siphoning to start. Also make sure the water has somewhere to go..A pool holds alot of water and could flood someones yard our house easily.
Q:How large is the starting current for a 1.5 kW submersible pump?
If single-phase, the no-load current is about 3.7A, the rated current is about 10A.
Q:This is what it is doing- the actual pump that is in its own little shed CLICKS all of the time water is being ran, even a small amount of water. The water pressure goes to a slow trickle and eventually stops completely. After about 20-30 minutes I go back and check the spickets and the water is fine, but quickly repeats this same cycle. We just installed this pump about 3 weeks ago. It was doing fine until last week. Does it need to be primed or pressure switch settings increased or decreased? Or am I talking totally out of my head?!
Its either faulty, or was installed wrong.
Q:I have a 95 honda civic and I just got a new water pump. I need to know how to change it. I have an engine lift, I just want to know if the is an easier way?
remove the drivebelt. remove the pipes off the existing water pump, then unbolt it. bolt the new one on and replace the drivebelt, remembering to tension is so that it isnt slack
Q:I am selling a 96 eclipse that needs a new water pump. I am willing to sell it for an offer as is, but I would like to fix it and sell it for more, so it is as if I am getting paid for the labor.My question is, is it possible at all to change out a water pump on a 96 eclipse without pulling the engine out? Like through the passenger wheel well access panel or anything?
It is possible, I wouldn't even consider pulling the engine out. The water pump is usually connected to the timing belt, so you'd have to worry about timing it all up after pulling the belt off to replace it. However, being that your eclipse is an inline 4 cylinder, it shouldn't be hard at all to time.
Q:I am trying to evaluate my well water pump and water system to see if the pump is cycling on/off too frequently. What is the optimal quot;ontime? What is the optimal quot;offtime? I have heard the term quot;short cyclingquot;, but no times were attached. I have heard that too frequent cycling can cause a problem, but, again, no times were attached. How can one tell when the system is working within the optimal/normal range, so that no harm is being caused to the system? Thanks.
There is no optimum time. This is dependent on several factors. Assuming you are pumping into a small tank which is pressurized by the inflow of water from the pump (and the pressure also controls the pump) these reasons can be excessive use of water, the air space at the top of your tank has been absorbed into the water over a period of time and the volume of compressed air too small causing the pressure to drop too fast, or you could have leak in your water piping. If there is not enough air space in your tank, the pump will cycle extremely fast. If you don't have a tank, then the above information is incorrect. Good luck.
Q:Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?
there are several problems that can cause this one is a stoped up radiator or a lower radiator hose thats soft
Q:I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...
New thermostat, yet have you ever tried a decrease temp thermostat? Our RV 479 CI used to run a million/2 way up and three/4 in end/bypass and close to the pink line up mountain roads. I placed a decrease thermostat and it runs a million/4 and <a million/2 end/bypass. severe temps are dry out electric powered cord rubber insulators and that i have had to replace diverse the ignition wires. also it is frustrating to crank reason you have become vapor lock. The gas contained in the gas is so warm is turns to vapor and the gas pump can no longer longer suck gas because it isn't reliable adequate to suck vapor, in ordinary words liquid gas. if so, flooded start up tactics might want to artwork. floor the gas, shop it floored and crank the starter. Pump like loopy also, yet shop you foot in truth floored. it would want to start up.
Q:My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?
If it is pumping sand there is a problem of course. The pump is generally hung about 10 feet from the bottom of the well ( Ex: if the well is 120 feet the pump would hung be at 110 feet). In your case it may have been closer to the bottom and picking up the sand. There is a possibility that recently another well has been dug in the area and disturbed sediment has gotten in the water. It sounds like you aren't using this as drinking water or the sand would have been dropped in the pressure tank and you wouldn't see it. If it is a seasonal use well ( like for your garden or lawn in spring through fall) this debris might wash out after a few uses.

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