CA, CE, CF Series Heavy Duty Petrochemical Process Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Single stage, horizontal volute casing pump with feet below and single entry impeller, end suction type. Depending on operating conditions hydraulic balance provided by front or wear rings and balance holes.
Full compliance with the latest edition of API 610, heavy duty fan cooled bearing housing, heavy duty and non-grout baseplates for PAU and offshore application.
Casing cover with cooling or heating connections, shaft sealing by packing or mechanicals seals of any design (single or double working), connections for cooling, flushing or sealing liquid.
Standard pipework according to API 682 Plans. Cooling system for high temperature pumping. Flanges according to DIN or ANSI.
CA working pressure up to 2.5Mpa, can be supplied with open impeller. (OH1)
CE working pressure up to 5.0Mpa, can be supplied with open impeller. (OH2)
CF working pressure up to 7.5Mpa. (OH2)
Material according to API610 standard
Application:
Petrochemical industry
Paper and pulp industry
Sea water Offshore industry
Coal processing
Refineries
Performance Range
Size 25 to 400mm
Capacity up to 2600m3/h
Head up to 350m
Working pressure up to 75bar
Operating temperature -80C to 450 C
- Q: What does the temperature range of the pump mean?
- Not be too cold or hot water, will be frozen.
- Q: My dad bought a boat this winter and when we got it we watched the guy winterize it. He was doing this white it was running on muffs. We got the boat to run today (on muffs) but no water was coming out the pee hole. This is the first boat we have owned. We are rookies. We also don't to take it to a dealer. Is there anything we're doing wrong? I don't know for sure what year the motor is i think a 1900 something. It is 90 horse.
- only replace the water impellor and housing -do no longer replace and hoses or tubes till you ought to. If the undertaking remains there after then inspect hoses. does the engine over warmth or is the water tension only low? despite if it is barely low then you definately have not have been given a blockage interior the engine possibly only the piss hose. ninety 9% hazard the recent impellor will fix it..do nto make greater artwork for your self.
- Q: The flow of the pump will be reduced, the speed will change, the power of the motor will change?
- Water pump flow rate, speed will not change, the power of the motor will change in general.Different types of pumps have different flow power curves. Only the most common centrifugal pump is used as an example to illustrate the relationship between the flow rate and other pump parameters. The typical centrifugal pump flow power curve is shown in the P-qv curve (red line) shown below.Turn left and turn right |According to the flow power curve, it can be seen that with the increase of the flow rate, the power increases linearly, and the power decreases linearly with the decrease of flow rate.In fact, the pump shaft power P= P gQH/ (1000 K), including H: head, unit m, Q: flow unit m3/s, ETA: for the efficiency of the pump, general 0.7-0.85, P: shaft power, unit kW, K: matching coefficient, small power is 1.25, P: work is like a water medium density.Therefore, for a specified pump, the power is proportional to the flow theoretically. In fact, as the flow rate changes, the efficiency of the pump changes, so it can only be close to the positive proportion.Running water pump speed generally depends only on the pump, power (motor, diesel, etc.) speed, the flow of water generally can not affect its speed. But in the design of pumps, the flow is related to the speed, and other design parameters remain unchanged, the pump speed is high, the pump flow.
- Q: How do I tell the difference between a long and a short water pump? I have a Chevy 350 V8, a crate motor the same size is going in very soon. How do I tell which one I have so that I can get the correct brackets, accessories, etc.?
- The short water pump body measure about 3 1/8, while the long pump measures about 4 3/4. That's measured from where the pump bolts to the block to the outside part of the casting. Not including where the shaft is. If you're looking straight down over the motor and it has a short pump, then the front of the timing chain cover and the rear of the pump are almost on the same line. If it's a long water pump, then looking down there would be about a 7/8 space where you can stick your finger. But don't do that, you could hurt yourself. :-) Hope this helps.
- Q: There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?
- This is the start capacitor is damaged, or start the coil break, it is recommended to check if the coil wire in the end can be connected, if left in the tank to replace the coil, if the capacitor is a replacement can (470V, 10uF).
- Q: I installed a circulating pump in the far bathroom, since the length to the water heater made for a long wait. It takes 25 seconds for the hot water to arrive, which means 25 seconds of hot water wasted, once the water is shut off.Is it cheaper to, selectively(2 settings on timer) run the pump, or just wait on the hot water? And without the consideration, that time equals money. I imagine the more people that use it, the more efficient it gets.
- Hot water recirculation for domestic hot water is not so much for efficiency as for instant hot water. It does waste less water, but the hot water pipes should be insulated to minimize heat losses. I would not recirculate hot water into the cold water lines. Lukewarm water is yucky to drink and could be unsafe.
- Q: In the past 9 months, Ive went through 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze, I was told this was not normal. Ive had my coolant tank flushed 4 times this year, only to be told thats not normal and one lasts a few years. Now that its colder outside my car takes a while to run hot of course, but during the summer it ran hot in about 15 minutes tops. I got a brand new coolant tank before I got another flush because I did have a leak, but that did not combat the problem. I had my radiator looked at and I was told thats fine. So im thinking either a cracked head gasket or a bad water pump...help please. im getting tired of putting money into this car only for the same stuff to keep happening.
- You don't say 4 or 6 cyl. but you need to get a pressure test done on cooling system this will tell you where your leak is whether internal or external. Have you had the thermostat changed, rad. cap tested. I don't know why you've been dumping antifreeze in rad. without getting checked. I think you need to find a Pro. that knows what to check instead of i was told this that and the other. If V6 make sure timing cover is checked for leak, common problem. There are just so many things it could be, so see a Proffesional.
- Q: Water pump maintenance what should be maintained?
- 1 by sound to determine whether the bearing is good. If the sound is abnormal, replace the bearing.2, check whether the impeller is worn, if worn, will affect the flow, lift, efficiency, need to be replaced.3, check whether the mechanical seal can continue to use, can not be used, need to be replaced4, check the oil tank is missing oil, such as lack of oil to the appropriate location.
- Q: Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.
- If it's leaking from the water pump, you may as well do the timing belt, idle and tension pulleys too since they have to come off to do the pump. That pump is visible, you should be able to see the coolant dripping from under the belt drive pulley.
- Q: A mechanic replaced my timing and other belts on my 2001 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder today but not water pump. He said the water pump looked good. All the other mechanics I talked to told me they had to replace the water pump. This mechanic said the belts were not connected to the water pump in this car and therefore the water pump was ok. The car has about 100500 miles on it. Is this bad or should I call him back and ask him why he didn't change the water pump. I don't want to pay more later.
- no your water pump should be fine if the belt wasnt spinning the water pump then nothing was moving to break or whatever the way you can tell if your water pump is bad is it will leak green antifreez out of the front of the motor and you will see green puddle on the ground but if its not leaking then its good
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CA, CE, CF Series Heavy Duty Petrochemical Process Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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