Centrifugal water pump CWP2

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Product Description:

Quick Details

Place of Origin:
Zhejiang China (Mainland)
Brand Name:
TAIFU
Model Number:
TCP158
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Structure:
Single-stage Pump
Usage:
Water
Power:
Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Fuel:
Electric
Pressure:
Low Pressure
Application:
PUMP WATER
impeller:
brass
wire:
copper

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Color box and carton
Delivery Detail:30 DAYS AFTER RECEIVING 30% T/T

Specifications

Centrifugal water pump
1. CE
2. Copper wire, brass impeller
3. CNC shaft
4.1 year warrany.

CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP

◊ Application

Applied to pumping such liquid which is clean, no solid matter or frictional matter, low viscous, noncorrosive, non-crystallizable, chemically neutral and close to water. Such as:

1.  Tank filling

2.  Domestic water supply

3.  Water transfer

4.  Pressure boosting

5.  Irrigation

◊ Features

  1. 100%copper wire, and automatic wiring.

  2. Brass impeller

  3. Cold-rolled silicon steel sheet, with high-speed punching, improve the efficiency and precision.

  4. CNC precision automatic lathe for smoother shaft, our owner casting factory

  5. Strict test including high-pot testing of stator coil and whole pump, outgasing test and performance test, ect

  6. New shape design with patent protection

  7. Anti-rust treatment castings and electrophoresis.

  8. 30 years experience, 1 year warranty

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Q:High pressure water pump?
I am a business man. You won't be a successful business man if you can't make your point. Good Luck...
Q:How much can you safely restrict a water pump's flow?
I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
Q:car sounds like it is havent trouble to start when idle after replacing water pump?
It should have nothing to do with the water pump. When you replaced the timing belt, you probably re-installed it a few notches/teeth off and the timing is off, and that's why you are getting the misfires. If the timing was WAY off when you re-installed it, there is a slim chance you could have bent some valves, but that's a long shot. You probably just have to re-adjust the timing belt and things will be fine.
Q:Solar Panels and Water Pumps?
The key is, as 96sentra says, where does the water have to go. We would need to know how high above bucket (minimum) water level will the other end of the hose be, and how fast (Liter or gallon per minute) shall the water flow. This determines the pump type, which in turn determines the solar panel size.
Q:1999 toyota sienna LE water pump?
When you change the timing belt you as well change the water pump as well. If you take it to anyone for timing belt change they will ask you if you want to change water pump because its convenient to change it out at that time. But if you dont have any knowledge how to work with the timing dont mess with it take it to someone who is knows what there doing because paying couple hundred dollars is better then paying thousands for engine rebuild or new engine.
Q:2003 ford focus water pump?
You most likely wont be able to do this at home in your own garage. The water pump on this vehicle is driven by the timing belt. In order to access the timing belt, you need to first remove the accessory drive belt, some pulleys, and i thing a couple components like the power steering pump, and the AC compressor as well. Once you have all that stuff out of the way, then you can remove the timing belt cover and begin removing the timing belt, with the timing belt removed, you can now access and unbolt the waterpump gear and then the waterpump itself. It goes back together in reverse order, except you will need a speical tool to hold the two cam gears from moving relevant to one another when you realign them with the crankshaft to put a NEW timing belt on, you shoudl use a new belt since you are forced to replace it while removing the waterpump. Your going to have to take it into a shop, it will be kinda expensive, a timing belt replacement in that vehicle is estimated at 2.2 man hours, the water pump will be only a bit more labor ontop.
Q:How can I be sure the water pump is the problem before spending $ on repairs. 97 civic overheating.?
Simple overheating is rarely the water pump. In most cases water pump failure means either a leak, which is visible as dripping from a weep hole under the car near the timing belt cover, or as a seized shaft, which would mean the engine would quit running immediately and probably be seriously damaged by failure of the timing belt that powers the water pump. Having got past that, consider the conditions of the overheating. If you are losing coolant, start with that. Verify the loss is not because of a head gasket by the simple test: with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and place the palm of your hand over the radiator neck where the cap came off, and pinch closed the hose to the reservoir. If you feel steadily rising pressure within 3-5 seconds (if the idle is surging, ignore those changes) that is bad news for the head gasket. Otherwise move on. Look for leaks at the end of every hose by feeling with a clean paper towel on your hand, and look for whitish streaks around the top and bottom of the radiator. If coolant is not disappearing, the overheating must occur when in slow traffic or idling, or on the highway, or all the time. If it is when going slow or idling you probably won't see the fan running when it is hot. If it is on the highway, or if it gets hot and stays hot all the time, the radiator is probably plugged with hard water deposits from using tap water to dilute the antifreeze.
Q:hot water circulation pump suck water from a pluged pipe and pump water through storage water heater to rooms?
Hey Gamel..Lets see if i got this question right..You have a circulation pump in a hot water line. this line is a closed loop when no faucets are on. When you let the system circulate for a while say during the day there seems to be a build up of pressure in the storage tank. You were wondering if a plugged loop in the hot water line would cause a dramatic water pressure increase.. the answer is YES..but NOT from the PUMP..the type of pump most people have requires that flow through the impeller be available at all times or two things will happen !. it will cavitate (that's a gurgling sound at the pump) or 2. It will only beat the water that is in the pump and no flow will be apparent. Either one of these though could be a symptom of a plugged hot water line in the loop. Here is what happens to increase the pressure apparent.. The water on the loop is pressurized from the storage tank to the pump then out to the loop .If the loop is terminated and air gets into the end of the line next to the restriction the outside water pressure is acting like a piston compressing the air that air reacts the same as it would in any compressor and can reach higher than normal operating conditions. If you will find the plug and install an expansion bladder in the highest part of your line your flow ,pressure and noise problems will stop...Good luck with the search...From the E
Q:92 blazer water leak -- NOT WATER PUMP?
look at the housing that the water pump bolts to ,it may be busted and there's some of the bolts that go all the way through in to the block if those wasn't coated with sealant it will still leak from the bolts that hold the water pump on,and that will make it appear to be leaking from the front cover,you got two freeze plugs in the front and three down each side,good luck with it,
Q:difference between a faulty water pump and head gasket?
a water pump will leak out on the ground and a head gasket will leak into the oil or in the combustion chamber and cause white smoke. a bad water pump will make your engine overheat but before it does that then it will leak or the bearing will go out.

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