Centrifugal water pump CWP1CN

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Product Description:

Quick Details

Place of Origin:
Zhejiang China (Mainland)
Brand Name:
CNBM
Model Number:
TCP158
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Structure:
Single-stage Pump
Usage:
Water
Power:
Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Fuel:
Electric
Pressure:
Low Pressure
Application:
PUMP WATER
impeller:
brass
wire:
copper

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Color box and carton
Delivery Detail:30 DAYS AFTER RECEIVING 30% T/T

Specifications

Centrifugal water pump
1. CE
2. Copper wire, brass impeller
3. CNC shaft
4.1 year warrany.

CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP

◊ Application

Applied to pumping such liquid which is clean, no solid matter or frictional matter, low viscous, noncorrosive, non-crystallizable, chemically neutral and close to water. Such as:

1.  Tank filling

2.  Domestic water supply

3.  Water transfer

4.  Pressure boosting

5.  Irrigation

◊ Features

  1. 100%copper wire, and automatic wiring.

  2. Brass impeller

  3. Cold-rolled silicon steel sheet, with high-speed punching, improve the efficiency and precision.

  4. CNC precision automatic lathe for smoother shaft, our owner casting factory

  5. Strict test including high-pot testing of stator coil and whole pump, outgasing test and performance test, ect

  6. New shape design with patent protection

  7. Anti-rust treatment castings and electrophoresis.

  8. 30 years experience, 1 year warranty

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Q:water pump problem,heats up only when i drive?
if it,s circulating then the water pump is doing its job. does the fan kick on? maybe 1 of the hoses is closing up when your driving. usually when the bearing goes bad in the pump it takes the seal out too and starts to leak.
Q:2001 yamaha banshee, How should the water pump sit in the case?
Perhaps one of the shaft's retainers, the bearing, or gear is worn, allowing the water pump shaft to move in and out of the case - causing the impeller to rub on the outer cover. Try to pull the water pump out and push it in - there shouldn't be any play. If there is, figure out why. If the impeller can move in and out, that would cause it to knock. If there were any metal shavings in the coolant, they would scrape the outer cover. The water pump cover isn't an even shape, so I don't know what you mean by should it be in the center The bottom end and the cooling system are 2 separate entities. A problem with one will not affect the other.
Q:where does a car water pump leaks at?
It am be leaks at them hole.
Q:Would a Timing Belt break a Water Pump?
there is a possibility the belt wrapped around the pump and damaged it ,but i think the pump went and the timing belt went after that.never the less both will have to be replaced
Q:Why does my water pump have oil all over it?
The first place a car will leak oil is usually the valve covers. Regular maintenance requires valve adjustments, and to do this, the valve covers come off a few times in 10 years. If you have a four syllable motor, the front of the valve cover is right above the water pump, so a valve cover leak would dribble down the water pump. Your water pump could be leaking (if you've never replaced it in the 10 years since your car was made). I'd bet you have both problems. I'm too soon old, and too late smart, so I've let water pumps go because it's only leaking a little. When the shaft begins to get wobbly, it will let loose with a caBANG! and damage something when it flings off the fan. Moral to the story: Replace the water pump, and get a new gasket for the valve covers.
Q:Well water pump quit working.?
If you have galvanized pipes there is always a trace amount of metal (rust) in your water but if you use the water every day it isn't noticeable, as it comes through in such small quantities. It could be that one or more of your pipes froze and cracked, releasing some larger chunks of rust from the walls of the pipes or pressure tank. Run the water steady for a while and see if it clear up. It would be wise to check all of your exposed pipes/tanks for leaks now too because if a pipe or tank cracks it will either be leaking now or shortly in the future. The rust/ice could have also been temporarily blocking the pipes, causing the 0 pressure. If the pump is running with no water, it will run faster and much louder.
Q:Is it my water pump? Help?
You don't mention make, model, or year, but it could be the water pump or some other leak. Your boyfriend can see the car so I am leaning toward his explanation. Check the first source for your make, model, and year, and engine type if you know it. If the entry for your car (or for any of the engines for your car, if you don't know which one) has a # after it the timing belt drives the water pump. If that is so, don't drive it at all until you either determine it is not the water pump or it is repaired. If the pump seizes and it is driven by the timing belt the timing belt will fail. And if the engine is an interference design (has an * along with the #) that will probably cause serious engine damage. The safe thing to do in any case is to try to bum a ride from a friend in the meantime. The shifting problem is probably something else.
Q:How to remove a 1983 Chevy Silverado water pump?
ok, this is every little step you could imagine, in detail, with reasons for doing it as said, in the order ive put it down....negligence on my dads part has caused 2 waterpumps to crack in the winter due to lack of antifreeze, because we just put straight water in it, because the radiator is cracked for the same reason as the waterpumps.(but the block luckily hasnt cracked) remove the fan belt, and lower radiator hose, to drain the radiator, and get the belt outta the way. if its a smallblock, you remove the fan shroud, remove the fan and fan clutch, then remove the 3 bolts on the left, and 2 bolts on the right, after youve drained the radiator. once youve removed the 5 bolts, pull it out. wrap a cloth around 1 of the 4 studs on the waterpump, and take a pair of pliers to break it free, repeat untill all 4 are loose. remove the studs, and take the pump with you to autozone so you can get a core charge. scrape the mounting surface clean(dont get anything in the block). install the studs, and have a cloth around any stud your working with when you use the pliers to tighten it down(to avoid damaging the the threads.).apply silicon gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket, and put the gaskets on the block. quickly put the pump back on, and put the top bolts in for support. put the other bolts on, and tighten to about 10ftlbs minimum. slide the fan pulley onto the studs, and put the fan back on. put the nuts back on, and tighten as tight as you can get them, itd be terrible for the fan to go through the radiator. put the fan belt back on, put the lower radiator hose back on, and put the fan shroud back on, in that order. wait an hour for the silicon to dry, and fill the radiator with the motor running, and go for a testdrive
Q:how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
On a '95 Intrepid equipped with the 3.5L 24-valve V6, the timing belt needs to be removed to access the water pump. The water pump itself only has three bolts securing it to the block. To access the timing belt, only requires removing the A/C compressor belt, and then the alternator/power steering pump belt, if I recall correctly. The trickiest part of the job will be re-installation. The timing belt tensioner is located on the bottom right/front corner of the engine, which requires being compressed and held with a paper clip. I wouldn't recommend this as a do-it-yourself type job if you do not know how to re-time the engine.
Q:How much would it be in labor and parts to change a water pump on a new Dodge Durango?
The cheapo water pump from oreillys is $46, the higher end one is around $70. As far as labor, Mitchell OnDemand calls for 2 hours flag rate time to change it out. You'll probably be looking at at least 1 gallon of antifreeze as well for what will be lost changing it out, and I would recommend changing the thermostat when you change the water pump. The 5.9 uses a timing chain, which I wouldnt recommend replacing, seeing as the vehicle has that low of miles on it. I'm not sure how much labor costs in your area, but the shop I work at charges $75 per flag rate hour. So if we were to do it, taxes and everything it would be right around $250. If you live in a big city, you'll probably be expecting to pay around $100 a hour for labor at a reputable shop. Good luck and hope this helps.

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