Centrifugal Pump NFM

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OPERATING LIMITS:
Fluid temperature up to+35℃
Maximum ambient temperature+40℃

PERFORMANCE CHART AT n=2900rpm

PUMP MODEL	POWER		Q m³/h	0	6	9	12	15	18	21	24	27
Single phase	Kw	Hp	I/min	0	100	150	200	250	300	35	400	450
NFM130B	1.5	2	H m	25	24	23	21	19	16	13
NFM140A	2.2	3		31	30	29	28	26	23.5	20	16
NFM150A	3	4		38	37	36	34	32	30	27.5	24	20

Q: Relationship between power and flow of sewage pumpFor example, how much power waste water pumps do 1m3/h and 100m3/h need?Best detailed listShow the relationship between power and flow: There is a formula for motor power = flow (m3/h) * lift head (meter), *9.81/3600/ efficiency (general sewage pump efficiency is about 55%), *1.2 (motor safety factor)For example, 10 tons of flow, lift 10 meters, how much power?N=10*10*9.81/3600/0.55*1.2=0.595. so the motor power we chose should be 0.75KW

Q: does water pump sealers work?: If your talking about the water pump for a car it doesn't have any pumps those would be the radiator pumps that are connected to the water pump and transmission which keeps the radiator and transmission at a temperature that keeps the vehicle from over heating. If you have a overheating car and a mechanic told you your water pump has a leak then sorry you would have to replace the water pump but just don't go to a popular mechanic for that because it can get really expensive do your research and find you someone with a garage it cheaper because the part itself is not that expensive it putting it in that cost lol. Hope this helps.

Q: Submersible pump reverse impact on the pump: Small amount of water, large current, long running time, easy overheating, or even burning pump.

Q: I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...: As a rule Chevy used two different sizes of heater hoses the one from the water pump should be 3/4 hose and the one from the top of the intake manifold should be 5/8. You should be able to see the different in sizes with the naked eye, they should go to the heater core inlet and outlet on the right side of your engine compartmant. (which is the passenger side)

Q: My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!: When the water pump goes you usually see obvious signs of leakage and a grinding metallic sound coming from it as well. Plus they usually go pretty fast, within a day or 2 of symptoms presenting, and then coolant is often gushing out. The thermostat is the more likely culprit. The thermostats on the '00-'02 Cavs are pretty bad. I've replaced (2) of them in 6 years on my car. Take it to another shop and let them look at it, point out that you think it might be the thermostat or water pump but you're not sure, at least you will sound like you have a clue what the problem might be.

Q: I got my oil changed yesterday and took like a 3 hour drive and back home and had no issues.. today I was at my work visiting and I noticed smoke coming from the engine [sort of more of steam] and a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. The light on the gauge inside the car for the engine temp isn't working but all the other ones are. A mechanic told me it was a bad water pump, but I just want some more opinions. Or if the oil change could of effected that.. My engine coolant wasn't that low but a greenish liquid was really leaking from underneath the car.: An oil change does not make a water pump go bad. Nor does the lack on an oil change. They just go bad over time. Just because there was steam like smoke coming from the exhaust system does not mean there is a water pump problem (water is a natural by product of combustion). Now the green fluid does mean that you have a coolant leak. But that could be because the reservoir was over filled when the engine was serviced. Some shops top off all fluids, and if the tank is over filled the excess has to go some where. But if could be a bad water pump. If so there will be water coming from the weep hole on the water pump. It could also be a bad hose. So unless I craw under it and take a good look, I don't know. If you do replace the water pump, and you have a timing belt that can be replaced, spring for the extra parts because in many cases the labor is already being paid for and the parts are less expensive then the labor at a later date. FYI: I do water pumps every other belt replacement for this reason.

Q: My well is 58 meters deep, the water level is 20 meters, the water level has not been measured. What's the maximum water pump I should choose?: Deep well pumps can be used. According to your parameters. 0. 75 or 1. The 1KW deep well pump is in line with your requirements. Elephant 0. 75KW head can reach 70 meters. The water output in an hour is about 3 tons.. I wonder how much you get out of the water every hour. If the amount of water is small, you can buy a larger power point. General domestic deep well pump 0. 75 or 1. The price of 1KW is between 500-700. In the case of ordinary brands. The price of imported goods is between 600-900. The products at this price are generally of good quality.. Of course they don't sell your shoddy premise.

Q: The garage told me my water pump was pumping quot;weaklyand needs to be replaced.: Good question (finally). It will pump weakly if it is not turning fast enough or is leaking at a seal. If you have a faulty belt that is slipping it will not turn fast enough. Go to another mechanic.

Q: Hello, I'm having an issue with grinding/metallic noise from engine bay. Alternator was replaced today and didn't fix. However, when I got the car back from the garage the oil level indicator is saying quot;inactivequot;. I seem to find some answers on the web that say the oil level indicator is in some way connected to the water pump. Car has 95k miles on and I doubt it had been changed. Could this be the cause of the noise? And could anyone possibly tell me which pulley it is on the belt? Many thanks for your time :): E92 has should be an electric water pump if it's a 6 cylinder. The oil level will read inactive until the engine is up to operating temp. As for the grinding noise- they need to remove the belt and start the car. If the noise is gone- spin the idler pulley and listen for bearing noise. I've had a couple of alternators go bad on these cars so I can't fully fault the shop- but they SHOULD have verified the source of the noise as well as the repair. Other potential issues would be the P/S pump or the A/C compressor. (only items on the belt).

Q: The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.: You'll need to have a 1/4 drive short extension and 10mm socket to get the t-belt covers off. Also be sure to loosen the water pump pulley's 4 10mm bolts before removing the alt/ac belt to ease getting the pulley off. Your also going to need to support the engine when you take off the motor mount to gain access to the t-belt. Good luck and hope this helps. The hardest part of the job usually is getting the p.s. belt loose due to it's location while doing the job on the ground. Also you may want to invest in a repair manual so you line the marks up correctly, it's imperative that you have them exactly lined up.Good luck and hope this helps.

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