Brake Shoe Brake Pads and Shoes Factory OEM

Brake Shoe Brake Pads and Shoes Factory OEM

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Model NO.:ISUZU

Classification:Drum

Drum Brakes Classification:Brake Shoe

Main Market:Mild East

Certification:ISO/TS16949, ISO9001

Type:Brake Shoes

Material:Ceramic Fiber

Position:F&R

Unit:4PCS/Set

Export Markets:North America, South America, Southeast Asia, Africa, Oceania, Mid East, Eastern Asia

Product Description

ISUZU ELF NPR57 3300 F16 / 07/84-06/90

ISUZU ELF NKR66 4300 F / 08/90-06/93

ISUZU ELF NKS58 3600 / 08/87-08/95

ISUZU ELF NPR58 3600 F16 / 01/87-06/90

ISUZU ELF NPR59 3900 F / 07/84-07/93

ISUZU ELF NPR59 3900 F / 07/90-07/93

ISUZU ELF NPR61 4300 / 06/88-04/95

Brake Shoe Brake Pads and Shoes Factory OEM

Q: Pedal motorcycle which side is the front brake which is the rear brake: If the big motorcycle. 15 and 150 and the like, generally only the right front brake, we have a motorcycle because there are foot brake, also canceled the left front brake.

Q: Today after I stopped for gas on my Suzuki Bandit 600, the front brakes locked up. After driving home with this condition the calipers were smoking, only way I could get the motorcycle home. I need some advice on what would cause this problem and what to look out for? I also took off the calipers and the cylinders seemed to compress without difficulty. I also inspected the master cylinder and it seemed to be pumping fine. One thing I noticed was that the left front rotor seemed to be slightly warped, but that could be due to the brakes being locked and me riding it home. Also I have never had any prior brake problems and they were working correctly the day before.: You say you removed the calipers and the pistons compressed easily. That means the pistons aren't stuck, normally caused when moisture in the system corrodes the cylinder. That leaves the lines and master cylinder. Old brakes lines sometimes swell internally and won't let the fluid return to the master cylinder, keeping them applied. If your bike has dual discs up front, were both of them hot? If so, that rules out the two lower brake lines because the probability of two lines both failing at the same time is astronomical. However, it could be the line from the junction to the master cylinder that's failed or either if your bike has a single front brake. A swelled line will usually relieve the pressure if allowed to set over night. You leave ok but as soon as you apply the brakes real hard, it locks up. The master cylinder could be bad, but I don't really suspect that. The little return hole could be plugged, but with fluid pushing out the hole, it would be hard for a piece of crud to stay lodged in there. Bad seals on the master cylinder usually fails to pressure up the system, not depressure it. If the system were together, you could apply the brakes hard to stick them and thenstart loosening the banjo bolts at the different connections. For example with the brakes stuck, if loosening the bolt at the master cylinder makes no difference, then that rules it out. If you loosen the bolt where the single like connects to the junction block and the brakes still stick, then you go to the lower lines. If you loosed the bolt at the caliper and fluid squirts out and the brake releases, you know it's that lower line. If the brake stays locked, then it's the piston stuck in the cylinder.

Q: I bought a mini motorcycle for my son, I lost the manual so I dont know how to staert it. It has a pull cord that husband can start it with, but it also has a button for electric start. I have a feeling Im supposed to do something while holding the button to make it start Im just not sure what. Also underneath the bike there is a thing that slides up and down, I dont know if it needs to be up or down to start, I guess its the throttle?! Please help its a SST mini motorcycle. My husband is working out of town, so I need t start it myself.: If you've lost the manual, you should probably try to get another one - this won't be the only issue you'll need to look up. Find a dealer and buy one from them, or look online.

Q: I‘m looking into buying a bike (first one) and I‘m interested in this feature. I‘ve noticed that most bikes (in my range) don‘t have ABS. I‘m currently looking into getting a 2009-2010 Yamaha FZ6R or anything comparable. I haven‘t looked into Suzuki much, Honda don‘t have anything like the FZ6R. The Ninja 650R.I just don‘t want one, I‘ve seen too many ninja‘s craigslist. I‘m looking to keep my bike, perhaps forever, which ever one I decide on getting.: On the Track where you dont need to actually stop. Yeah . its a must have. you can gain seconds on a stop go track. Maybe you should be asking in the street bike section Cars Transportation Motorcycles Personally on a road bike I would never have them again. they only really work when you fire them on. and they dont actually stop you. Think T junction around a blind bend with sign post obscured by trees and hedges. I had them on a GSXR1100. neither me or my mates could stop the thing, it went back to the shop within a week. swapped for bike with standard brakes, Cheaper too. edit to the thumb fairy, this question is asked in the Racing section, the guys saying ABS doesnt mean a thing probably dont race. on equal bikes with the same racer ABS will save time. Im open to prove the fact anytime, on any track.

Q: Ive been looking at the ducati monster 696, but I have no motorcycle driving experience whatsoever. Is it that much diffrent then driving a car? HELP!?: The biggest difference is steering. In a car, you turn the wheel and the car instantly follows. On a bike, you lean the bike, and the wheel follows. To lean the bike, you torque the bars - in the OPPOSITE direction you want to turn. Braking: also, braking is a bit different. There's less margin for error. Have you ever slammed the brakes so hard that you couldn't steer? Well, if you were on a bike, you'd have probably eaten asphalt about 1 second later.

Q: Why is the motorcycle brake stuck?: This is now happening in the drum brake system (disc or butterfly brakes will not be the case) Cause 1 return spring break or loose 2 Brake wear Excess 3 Brake Convex wear 4 Brake Convex and brake shoe gap too Large to create a convex iron offside so that the flange is not within the face and stuck can not return 5 system rust operation is not flexible

Q: Approximately 3 weeks ago I brought my motorcycle to a repair shop because the front brakes were locking up They informed me that the bike was fixed and could be picked up. I jumped on the bike and rode off. Before I even reached 500 ft the brakes locked up again and threw me off the bike at 50 mph causing severe road rash along my entire body and fractures in my foot. My question is: is the repair shop liable for all costs involved, i.e medical costs, repair of the bike, pain and suffering? Here are some random facts:The bike is relatively new with 1200 miles on itI never signed anything waiving my rights for the repairsThis was a reoccurring problem with the brakes. The purchase order even said The front brakes are locking up. FIX THEM The weather conditions were sunny with no rain and I did not even touch the brakes before they locked up. There was a gentleman on the scene that picked up the bike and informed me that the front brakes were still locked into place/: hi mate if it was my bike and did and the shop did not repair your bike brakes properly i would take it back to them and ask what is going on. And i would ASK for my money back or ask to speak to the boss and ask what the hell is going on this shop. that is it relly mate please vote me as your best anwer

Q: hello i just bought a suzuki gz 250 for a starter bike and i noticed when i move the bike i can hear a grinding sound coming from the front brakes even when im not applying any brakes now when i do apply brakes is sounds like metal on metal obvously i need new pads already on there way but why is the caliper sticking when there isnt any break beeing applyed i checked the fluid level and quilty and there dosnt seem to be anything wrong in that area will the new pads fix these probs and if not what should i do thank you: sounds like your pistons on the brake pads need to be reset. Do to the fact that your brake pads are gone your piston has worked its way out and has caused the vacume in the lines to decrease. your problem isnt major. It will remedy itself once you install the new brake pads properly. In case you dont know ill list the steps. 1. take the calipers off of the forks. 2. ope the master cylinder at top of the handle bars by unscrewing the bolts and taking the cap off. 3. with a c-clamp compress the brake caliper shoe all the way in. ( use the old brake pad of a small piece of wood. this way you dont damage the caliper.) 4 compress it all the way in. to where it is flush with the caliper. 5 install the new brake pads. 6. put caliper back on where it belongs and do the same steps to the other one. 7 once both calipers have been reinstalled then put the cap back onto the master cylinder. Ps while doing this check your fluid and you may want to blead your lines. always helps to do the entire brake system while you are working on it.

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