• Brake Pads for Toyota Crown (41060-91255) System 1
  • Brake Pads for Toyota Crown (41060-91255) System 2
Brake Pads for Toyota Crown (41060-91255)

Brake Pads for Toyota Crown (41060-91255)

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Model NO.:WVA29125

Certification:TS16949

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Rear

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Box, Carton, Pallet

Standard:TS16949, ISO

Origin:Qingdao

HS Code:87083010

Production Capacity:10000sets/ Per Month

Product Description

Fh12 Fh16 FM9 FM12 Fl6 Brake Pads WVA29125 for Volvo
1). Material: Semimetal, ceramics, asbestos free
2). Delivery time: 15-25 days
3). Stable coefficient friction
4). Less noise, no dust
5). Pass ISO and TS16949 certificate
6). Small wear rate and dual wear
7). Good performance of heat
8). MOQ: 100 sets
9). Packing: Box+carton+pallet

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q:Motorcycle with ABS how to brake
You say is a kind of hydraulic disc brake it, disc brakes are unable to tune the factory when the tune is good Sometimes you hear the sound is really nothing to do not affect the very durable do not have to pick no tune
Q:i have been wanting to learn for a while now but i can only find one place and they wanna charge me $325 for classes! i dont know anyone who has a motorcycle so is there another other option? also, what do i need to get my motorcycle license (or whatever its called)
That $325 course will also serve as your practical test in most states. You would only need to pass a written exam for your licence. If you really can't afford the test, find someone with a dirtbike and a large open field. Do not try to learn on the open roadways! Motorcycling is an expensive sport.
Q:Hey, GuysI'm just a beginner when it comes to motorcycles, but today I just had my first ride in the streets and it seemed to have went well. My main concern is the clutch.Here's how it goes. I have the clutch out while I'm accelerating via the throttle. When I'm about to make a stop at a red light or behind a car, I release the throttle, and slowly start to squeeze in the clutch while using the front and then rear breaks. When I come to a complete stop, my clutch is fully squeezed.Is this the proper way to stop? Squeezing in the clutch slowly as you're about to stop or decelerate?Thanks for your time.
Its relatively now not an limitation, I ride my motard day-to-day and cycle as soon as per week and i havent had any problems. As in your question. You wish to have your palms (your more dexterous controllers) to be in control of matters that require satisfactory motor movements- the throttle, the entrance brake, and the seize. Seeing as nearly all of folks are right exceeded, the throttle gets the correct side. Since you need to modulate the snatch and throttle whilst, the grasp must be operated via the reverse hand- the left side. It additionally helps to put the front (essential) brake on the throttle hand so that you roll off the throttle whilst achieving for the brake. As for the ft controls, the rear brake is foot actuated in view that it has much less importance than the entrance brake. It additionally helps on steep hills for the reason that you can maintain the brake held to restrict rolling backwards at the same time opening from a standstill. At this time your hands are busy with the throttle and take hold of and without that foot actuated brake you possibly can rolling backwards for that cut up second.
Q:Motorcycle oil brake does not hit the oil Editor's note
There may be brake oil or brake system in the air, there may be insufficient brake oil, brake pump blockage or damage can not be caused by the formation of pressure.
Q:I just had new brakes put on and a service done on the front brakes, its a Harley
Pads can leave dust as they are used which sometimes squeals as the brakes are applied, on older style brakes you used to have to put copper grease on the reverse of the pads which helped remove the noise. However, if the brakes are constantly binding, there could be a problem with the fitting/servicing, with the wheel off the ground spin it to see if it rotates smoothly.
Q:Can be more detailed? The For example, look at the car engine. Or what? The
Then you only have their own to Tateishi to buy, do not see the car is not enough.
Q:What is the brakes?
Wipe the wheels with your feet ...
Q:What kind of brake fluid should I use?
Look on the brake resevoir cap. It is stated on the cap in 9 out of ten circumstances. Dot 3 is the most common fluid in cars. Motorcycles usually require DOT4. It would be best to contact the manufacturerbut usually safe with dot 4. if it's not a full synthetic fluid.You can't use dot 3 for dot 4 applications, but you can use dot 4 for 3. Just some more help:)
Q:Ive been able to drive it enough to park it and it starts up fine, but the brakes just wont let up. What can I do?
When did you fill it up again, if its been standing a few days the caliper on the rear could havebecome stuck. If not it is just coincidence. The rear brakes on most japanese bikes can begin to stick and if left long enough seize.This is partly due to lack of use but also road dirt n salt building up and slowly rotting,corroding and rusting. If your lucky you can free the pistons by. removing the pad on the one side at a time, pumping the piston out, cleaning the crap of, applying a thin smear of oil and pushing back in(may need to use a G clamp or spanners to lever it in.Exersize the piston a few times, which may draw out more crud.Repeat the process on the other piston. Light rust,use emery cloth or my fav brillo pads to carefully remove the worst. Pitting below the seal line will either have to be repaired or ideally the piston replaced. If the pistons will not move or return properly or they are heavily pitted/rusted up then you will need to stripp the caliper down, pick out the old seals, clean all the oxidised alloy crud out, put new seals in and if needed, new pistons.But in the case of havig to replace pistons it migt be cheaper to buy a 2nd hand caliper off Ebay. To prevent the caliper sticking in the future, make a habbit of using and servicing the brake often. On all my kawasaki's ive owned i hardly use the rear brake, so i get this problem alot.But pumping it seems to work 99% of the time for me.In fact the rear pads were just passing an mot, and in 2months time the new mot is due and the pads still have about the same amount of material on lol- bearing in mind i do at least 100miles a week.
Q:the brake and running lights dont wrk when the motorcycle is running, but when you turn the key to auxillary then they work how do i fix this problem, the front headlights work and the blinkers work but the back break lights and running lights dont work. if there is any one who has a diagram of the bike or anything will help! thanks!
1(a). Check the operation of the brake switches at the front and rear brake controls. 1(b). Replace the rear tail/brake-light bulb. 2. The Ninja 500 does not have rear running lights. 3. If the rear turn-signals illuminate in the Aux' position then that means that they are part of the parking lights circuit. This doesn't mean that they should illuminate at any other time.

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