Axial Flow Chemical Pump, Horizontal Axial Flow Pump (HZW)

Axial Flow Chemical Pump, Horizontal Axial Flow Pump (HZW) System 1

Axial Flow Chemical Pump, Horizontal Axial Flow Pump (HZW)

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Introduction of Axial Flow Chemical Pump, Horizontal Axial Flow Pump (HZW)
HZW chemical axial-flow pump is a single-stage, single-suction cantilever type and is mainly used in chemical process with large flow rate and low delivery head, especially suitable for forced circulation process of material conveyance, vaporizing concentration, crystallization in alkali, salt, fermentation, metallurgical, phosphorous fertilizer industries.

Mechanical seal: According to customer's requirements
We provide:

1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanical seal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 2 20977.4 ) single or dual MS.
2. Dynamic seal.
3. Packing gland seal.

Or other brands.
Coupling: Pin type coupling

Application of Axial Flow Chemical Pump, Horizontal Axial Flow Pump (HZW)

Salt-making industry: Evaporating concentration of NaC1;
Light industry:

Evaporating concentration of lactic acid, and alcohol, chemical reaction of VCNa food preserving agent, evaporation of sugar solution.
Metallurgy: Evaporating concentration of copper sulphate and nickel sulphate;
Phosphorous fertilizer plant:

Wet-process concentration of phosphoric acid, concentration of ammonium phosphate slurry;
Glauber salt plant: Media concentration of Na2SO4 evaporator;
Aluminum oxide: Evaporating concentration of sodium aluminate lye3.

Materials of Axial Flow Chemical Pump, Horizontal Axial Flow Pump (HZW)

For wetted parts in contact with medium, the common materials are as follows: 304, 316, OCr25Ni6, 316L, SAF2205, 310S, 904L, TA2, Ni6, Monel.

Q: Building installation problems, beginners, many problems need to be solved, thank you!: 3, sewage pump flow per hour 40 square water head 15 meters, 1600 rpm, with power 4KW

Q: i used my water fountain pump for the first time yesterday and I've had it for 10 years and i used it yesterday it worked with the water and everything was fine!then the next day i wanted to turn it on , it went on it started vibrating but it wasn't pumpingwhen i had it on the other day the water was dirty but it was workingi cleaned it the filtershould i put vinegar to clean it ?and what else should i do!??? Help :#92;thank you!: Totally agree with Peetr Peetr's answer above. When you purchase the trashcan the Rubbermaid cans have been proven to be safe for potable water, can't say that all others will be made with non leaching plastics. Also Suggest adding the dechlorinating product i.e. prime into the tank itself, instead of adding it to the water and sitting all week in the vessel which leaves a layer of scum on the trashcan from my experience. Hth

Q: How much is the flow rate of fire hydrant and spray shared water pump?: Fire fire water is superimposed, at the minimum, the lowest 5L/S automatic spraying fire hydrant, light danger level 13.9L/S, the least is 18.9L/S, but the data is useless, the data are not spraying fire hydrant, concrete analysis of high-rise buildings like the dangerous level according to the calculation, the general design, the concrete building needs the high-rise building minimum 20L/S, automatic spraying dangerous level according to the general 30L/S, 50L/S need to flow

Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks: I assume you are saying that the pressure drops to 20 when no water is being drawn by any faucets, since that will naturally happen if water is drawn. Four things I would check - first look for leaky toilet float valves - the tank level will drop, and the valve will open periodically to refill the tank if the seal is bad on the float valve. Secondly, make sure you have a check valve installed on the supply line into the pressure tank to prevent water from flowing back down into the well. Third, you may need more air in the tank - I would put enough air in so that the off/on cycle was 60 seconds when one faucet was fully open drawing water. This would not be the cause of leakage, but it could increase the frequency of the 50 to 20 psi cycle. Fourth, I'd adjust the low pressure turn-on point up to over 30 vs. the 20 it is set for now - 20 is probably annoyingly low. Go for a gap of 20 psi from low to high - eg. 30 - 50 psi.

Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi: No, but if the leaking water pump was leaking for that long, and you didn't check the coolant level, you probably ran out of coolant, overheated the engine and damaged more than just your radiator. The mechanics weren't feigning anything, they were trying to save you money in the long run, but you don't know enough about engines to realize this, so you blame the mechanic. In your case, if being a mechanic is so easy, you should do the work yourself.

Q: 2000 3.3L engine. I understand,depending on engine year, it can be a very difficult job. Is this the one or is it much more difficult on the 3.0 L ? One involves timing belt ? Help ? Thanks' Ken: If there are not any obvious leaks, the 1st factor to envision may be the Radiator/coolant reservoir cap for a lacking gasket or o-ring based at this variety of cap, and if ok, do a tension attempt to work out if the cap is preserving tension. in the journey that your engine has a bleed screw, you ought to use compressed air source (and regulator, if mandatory) to pressurize the engine to particularly below the cap score and than seem for leaks. If none chanced on, a compression examine will point out a a probability blown head gasket.

Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.: Are you forgetting to mention something? Ah! Year, Make and Model. Engine size is a plus ... only a fool who knows nothing will answer your question without knowing the at least needed to know information ... What do you mean: if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? You've said: Timing chain and yet, the first answer by You may be right said: If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. See what has happened when the needed to know information were not specified? .. and how do you expect any of us to know the question you have mentioned before and could not read your history in YA? I've rest my case ...

Q: the pump inlet how hard is this to replace i know the timing chain cover has to be removed and is this the propable place of the leak: If okorder has printable online manuals for most repairs but if you aren't mechanically inclined and have little experience I would advise you to take it to a mechanic and have it fixed properly. Depending on the vehicle most water pump replacement cost between 2 and 3 hundred at a garage. The timing chain cover never needs to be removed to change a water pump.

Q: The diving pump in the aquarium stops and stops on the goldfish: The submersible pump has been on all the time.

Q: Every time i turn off the engine i hear like liquid noises behind the dash board in the drivers side. My fan isnt working properly but i just took a trip...4 hours away.. on the highway the temperature would be fine but on regular streets my temperature goes high pretty fast..i have been putting anti freeze pretty often lately because it goes low but there is no signs of a leak anywhere. Could it just be that my fan isnt working properly or is it because the water pump is going bad? or both? I have a 93 Toyota celica: 17 Years...... Blown Head Gasket, Fans need to be Repaired {A/C Fan on at all times with A/C on, Radiator Fan Cycling as Engine Heats Cools}, Thermostat Removed, Cooling System Boiled/Flushed Out, New Thermostat Installed After Cooling System Cleaning, At 17 Years New Radiator Hoses Clamps, New Radiator Cap, New Temp. Sensor, New Coolant (50%-50% Anti-Freeze Clean Water Used All Year Round). Hopefully that should fix it. Almost forgot; With a Blown Head Gasket there will be Water in the Oil, you should Flush the Engine and change the Oil Filter.

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