• Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series System 1
  • Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series System 2
  • Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series System 3
Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series

Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
500 set/month

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QDLF Series Vertical Multi-Stage Stainless Steel Pump

General of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
QDLF Series Vertical Multi-stage Stainless Steel pump is one high quality,high efficiency and high technology product .The pump is a mixture of cold drawn stamping craft and beading welding craft. combined modern advantage of pump, adopt lots of patents. The advantage is high head, high efficiency , lower noisy and corrosion resisting, stable quality and superior structure. Perfect design and economical operation, which is a ideal for green, environmental and save energy pump.

 

Technical date of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
Capacity: 2-125m3/h
Head: 15-196m
Rotating Direction: anti-clockwise when viewed from the motor

 

Model Explaination of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
50 QDLF 12 -100
50 – Suction and Discharge Diameter (mm)
QDLF – QDLF Serial Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
12-Designed Capacity(m3/h)
100-Pump Stage Divided by 10
Rotating Direction: anti-clockwise when viewed from the motor

 

Applications of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
Type QDLF Vertical Multi-stage stainless Steel pumps is a Multifunction  product .can be apply for supplying clear water and industrial liquid, different temperature, different capacity and pressure..
Urban water supply and boosting system
Industrial circulating system and boosting system
Boiler Feeding and condensation system
Water Treatment in Environmental Protection
Agriculture irrigation and dehydration
Industrial workshop Cleaning and other washing work

 

FAQ of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series

 

1. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3. Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

4. Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

 

 

Q:If a submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the distribution box in such a shake, I want to ask is, what is this shake is not the pump shell must be reliable grounding to shake ah? Now the pump casing is not grounded, just immersed in water, immersed in the water, is not equal to good grounding ah?
The cable head in the distribution box should be relieved. What's more, the motor insulation is not the pump insulation. Usually, just shake it in the middle of the water and the ground.
Q:I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.
Replace the pump. While your at it, since the front end (actually the bumper cover) is off, get the timing belt done, with rollers, tensioner, thermostat, and G12 coolant.
Q:where is water pump tempertuer sensor in ford focus 2002
Water-pumps do not have temperature sensors. They're (temperature sensors) always located in the water-jacket of the hottest part of the engine which is the cylinder head. The water-pump coolant temperature is by far the coolest. It's located to the right of the alternator, a few inches facing forward screwed into the cylinder head. The little manual in the glove compartment will not explain where the coolant temperature sensor is.
Q:I want to either get a kit to rebuild the water pump or just by the entire assembly, but im not sure which water pump/kit that i will need for a 1997 mercury 25 hp 2 stroke.Serial Number 0G474648,1997 year,model is 25el according to transom plate.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Water pump rebuild kit from Mercury, part# 99157T2, about $65. The kit includes the impeller, all gaskets and seals, wear plate and pump body insert. Sierra marine offers a cheaper kit, but their kit does not include the wear plate or pump insert, and these parts cannot be purchased separately from Sierra, so I would not recommend this kit, unless your wear plate and pump insert have been previously changed in the last 3 years.
Q:The meter on my dash was reading low even after driving for 20 minutes on a sunny day. Then all of a sudden it jumped over the 270 mark. I have a relatively new thermostat could my water pump have gone bad? I did not see any leaking coolant or anything under the vehicle.
It sounds like the thermostat was stuck open from the last drive cycle, and thats why your car wouldn't warm up, then it sounds like (somehow) it is now stuck closed. The only way to be sure is to feel for any large differences in temperature before and after the thermostat to see if its stuck.
Q:I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
/i thini it might... I would just get a bolt from a local carquest, autozone, aidauto where ever cant be anymore than 5 bucks... best best better than overheating your engine and getting stuck for a couple of bucks
Q:My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!
The thermostat is on it's way out..and is sticking closed. Get a new thermostat installed and the engine coolant flushed and filled with a 50/50 mix. If it were the water pump you would have been loosing coolant and the problem would not have been intermittent. Take it to another shop as they are trying to rip you off for a water pump. Replacing a thermostat and flush is not that expensive ..
Q:water pump has small leak
If its an automotive water pump, you need to have it replaced. Because of pump pressures and constant expanding/contracting there is no reliable way to seal the leak. Plus the leak will only get worse. Radiator additives basically clog leaks from the inside, like a bloodclot on a body. But the leak never actually heals and instead the stuff clogs other parts like the inside of the radiator or heater core.
Q:We have a 3-story (including ground floor) house. We have 2 bathrooms.We need to invest in a water pump to deliver water from ground floor to all floors + 2 reservoir tanks (one located on first floor, and the second tank located on the second floor).Which water pump do you recommend among these:(1) Valco 261PL or Valco 261PT(2) Davey HS50-05TI'd be MOST grateful if you could kindly advice me on any reliable brand that you know (apart the ones that I mentioned). We're basically looking for a very reliable pump up to around $700 (preferably less).BTW, according to you, what's the typical horsepower we should be looking for? Will 1hp suffice??Thank you very much!
I've never heard of those brands, but your TDH is going to be approximately 25 feet (ground to middle of the 3rd floor) plus 92' for pressure (40 psi). Ad at least 5' clearance head and that's 122' TDH. That's also 53 psi, meaning you'll want a pump that with an on-off of 40-60 psi. A centrifugal pump will do that. You'll probably want a minimum of 5-6 gpm. See if you can find a pump curve for the pumps in question and follow the vertical and horizontal lines on the chart and see if it will produce 6 gpm (or whatever volume you want) @ 60psi. Keep in mind that you can compensate for a pump that's a bit shy in volume with a larger pressure tank. Chances are most 3/4hp pumps will do what you need. If you don't have a pressure tank already or don't want to plumb a separate tank to the pump, look for a pump/tank combo. Then all you will have to do is plumb an intake and outlet line. A very good and very reliable American made pump like a Meyers should be way less than $700. The pump itself will probably be half that and a separate pressure tank approximately $175. Steer clear of Chinese made pumps. They may be ok, but finding parts like seals can be nearly impossible. Spending a couple of hundred extra dollars for an American pump will be money well spent when it's still running trouble free 10-25 years later.
Q:i need help on how to replace a water pump oil seal in a 2001 rm80...i looked everywhere...if you can get a video or detailed info that be great, thanks
Drain coolant - #13 drain bolt Remove hose from water pump cover Remove water pump cover - #12 Drain oil Remove R side cover - #1 Remove circlip - #23 Remove water pump shaft - #19 Pull out water pump seal - #20 Note the direction the seal is installed Tap in new seal This entire procedure is explained in detail in your service manual.

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