• Solid Merbau Flooring System 1
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Solid Merbau Flooring

Solid Merbau Flooring

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Loading Port:
Dalian Port
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
1000 m² m²
Supply Capability:
40*40GP m²/month

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Specifications

Quality Indoor Solid Merbau Flooring

1. Pre-finish: Treffert UV from German, natural oil or un-finished

2. Surface: normal; ha

Quality Indoor Solid Merbau Flooring

1. Pre-finish: Treffert UV from German, natural oil or un-finished

2. Surface: normal; hand scratched; archaized; brushed;

3. Joints: 4 sides T&G, with mirco bevel

Name: Solid Hardwood Flooring

Sizes (mm):

15/18 x 75/83/90/120/125/150/180/189 x RL

15/18 x 75/83/90/120/125/150/180/189 x 900 (FL)

Grade: A/AB/ABC/ABCD/BCD/CD

Technical Specification:

1. Varnishing: 7 layers coating of Treffert Aluminum Oxide finish, T&G, MR<12%.  

2. Glue: Dynea Glue, exceed E1 standard.

3. Packing: Export Standard Carton & IPPC Pallets.  

4. Pre-finish: Treffert UV from German, natural oil or un-finished

5. Surface: normal; hand scratched; archaized; brushed;

6. Gloss: semi-gloss: 35 +/- 5% High-light:75 +/- 5%

7. Joints: 4 sides T&G, with micro bevel

8. Packing: 8-20 Pcs in a carton, then packed in pallet, the pallet is shrink wrapped and strengthened, which means about 23 M3 per 20' container

9. Lead time: monthly production capacity is 80,000 M2.

 

 Solid Merbau Flooring

 

 Solid Merbau Flooring  Solid Merbau Flooring

Q:Huali wood flooring material good
It is the natural growth of the wood texture, is a poor conductor of heat, can play a role, cool comfortable and safe use, is an ideal material for the bedroom, living room, room decoration. Solid wood decorative style natural texture, recover the original simplicity, decrease in forest cover, vigorously promoting environmental protection today, the solid wood floor is more precious
Q:What is better for a townhouse we cannot do normal hardwood due to the concreet bottom so it's between engineered hardwood (Brazilian Cherry Br111) or the wood laminate(Pergo Brazilian Cherry). What's better?
I just attended a Br111 product seminar and came away with a good impression. They are a small company and make a quality product. Engineered hardwood is going to look the same as solid hardwood the only difference being that it is made of 3, 5, or 7 layers of real wood instead of 1. It will look and feel much better than laminate, but is obviously more expensive. If you use engineered, I strongly suggest full glue down installation. This will give a very solid look and feel making the floor indistinguishable from solid hardwood. Floating, hardwoods have proven quite problematic so far. Most Br111 engineered products can be refinished 1 time, laminate can not. If you use laminate, Pergo is a good way to go, having a 25, or 30 year wear/stain/fade warranty.
Q:The guy I hired says its better to glue and nail the very expensive engineered hardwood flooring I just bought. The store that I purchased it from says that you should either nail or glue and not do both. This concerns me and if any of you are installers please let me know what the disadvantage of doing it this way, the handyman I hired already installed the floors this way in two of the rooms and is working on the rest of the house soon, I want to do it the right way. Everytime I question him, he tells me he's been in this business for 25 years, and gives me this tone to not question him.
He is doing the right thing. The glue will keep it from squeaking as the temp and humidity change and offer another layer to hold the floor. Glue can also come undone if not secured. The nails will keep it from moving. When they tell you nail or glue they mean you can do either or both it's not an OR statement. Thank him, it's not often you get a contractor that stick to what he knows is correct faced with his clients pesterings (Many renos under my belt and I pester a lot). Your floor will be trouble free for many many years to come.
Q:We purchased an engineered wood floor and installation. The floor clics/snaps together and is specifically designed to be floated. After noticing a sticky/cruchy sound when walking on several areas and reading the manufacturer's literature closer, we realized the floor is stapled down and has no expansion gaps on the sides. The crunchy/sticky sound appears to be the floor being pushed down onto the tar paper when placing our body weight on our foot and when we lift the foot (i.e., placing our body weight on the other foot) the floor sounds like its raising up and the crunchy sticky sound we are hearing is the tar paper. The installers fixed the cunchy/sticky sound on one end by pulling the floor up and glueng it down. That part of the floor now feels and sounds fine but the cruchy/sticky sound has now moved to the area adjacent to the side that is glued down. Should I be worried about future problems such as buckling? Why or why not.
There isn't suppose to be tar paper under wood floors, to begin with, the purchased engineered wood is suppose to have a backing to do what the laid down tar papers does, if that is what you are describing. Being stapled down, I have to assume you laid the engineered floor over plywood substrate. The crunchy sounds might be the wood strips expanding and contracting along the interlocking edges, sawdust/dirt not completely removed when the flooring was put down, or tarpaper sticking as you describe. Gluing the floor down will lead to problems over time, as the subfloor naturally expands and contracts due to temperature changes and aging, and the glued down areas restricts these movements, causing either the subfloor or the flooring, whichever is weaker, to crack, check, etc. Hope this helps.
Q:Can anyone tell me the best quality engineered hardwood flooring. We have two energetic dogs who wrestle a lot. If you have any experience please respond. Thank you
turn to jesus christ our lord and you shall find the answer
Q:Also called oak oak, because I love the light colored floor, but do not want to choose solid wood, wood composite, so I want to ask you to feel any good?
This society is so, it is your turn to ask others, it is difficult. I'll send out, maybe I was too suspicious, do not think too much, for their own good. I have a clear conscience!
Q:How to distinguish the nature of the solid wood floor of the Acacia bronze
Wood floor types are: solid wood flooring, laminate flooring, solid wood flooring, bamboo flooring, such as more than a dozen. To realize the choice of the kind of floor, and then have the goal to focus on the selection decision.3 species identified, the need to further determine the species, color, grade, price, specifications.4 currently on the market of wood flooring manufacturers and brands are dazzling, dizzying, three products meet the eye everywhere. So buy sure to know the floor of the brand and reputation. Try to buy well-known brand flooring.
Q:I am trying to decide on What company to go with as well as two different installers. The brands are Shaw, Mirage &amp; Lauzon. The prices are slightly higher for the Mirage/Lauzon and the installation charge is as well but it's glued &amp; nailed vs. a versa-lock? Just trying to figure out what would be better in a Family Room off of a Kitchen.Thanks
It seems you are asking about two different products. Engineered wood flooring requires a glue or stapled (nailed) installation. The versa-loc is a Shaw system used in their laminate flooring. A different product from engineered wood. The laminate will be less expensive to install, as well as the material should be less. All the brands are coparible. If you want the true look of a hard wood floor, go with the engineered. It will cost you more, but the final results are worth it. However, for a little more you can have a true 3/4 pre-finished hardwood floor. The installation should be about the same as the engineered. You will be happy you did... Good luck
Q:Contractor has quoted me a price of $5.50 / sq. foot for materials (engineered maple), and $4.50 / sq. foot for glue-down installation. I thought since he's doing our whole house (2000 sq feet) he'd give us a cheaper price for the installation. Do you think $1.50 / sq. foot is reasonable to ask?
This Site Might Help You. RE: Cost per sq. foot to install engineered hardwood flooring in Los Angeles? Contractor has quoted me a price of $5.50 / sq. foot for materials (engineered maple), and $4.50 / sq. foot for glue-down installation. I thought since he's doing our whole house (2000 sq feet) he'd give us a cheaper price for the installation. Do you think $1.50 / sq. foot is reasonable...
Q:Which is the best between engineered hardwood floors and natural hardwood floors?
I prefer solid real hardwood flooring. In my opinion the finish on site solid floors look the best when completed.
Our company has advanced wood desiccation equipment, and complete sets of equipment for machining and mounding and assembly lines of UV and PU lacquer, which stand for national advanced level. A severe quality control of the total process from purchasing the raw materials until finishing the flooring ensures the high quality of the products.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Mudanjiang, China
Year Established 2010
Annual Output Value Above US$ 8 Million
Main Markets 70.00% North America
10.00% Western Europe
10.00% Middle East
10.00% Domestic
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port Dalian
Export Percentage 90%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 5-10 People
Language Spoken: English; Chinese
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size: Above 100,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines 3
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered
Product Price Range Average; Low

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