Yongsen Small Grid Light (Pometia pinnata)Solid Wood Floor

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Nanjing
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m²
Supply Capability:
9000 m²/month

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Product Description:

 1、Material properties

Pometia pinnata heartwood reddish brown or reddish brown wood is brown, with golden luster, straight stripes shallow crisscross, with dark band, uniform structure, weight and moderate intensity. Suitable for furniture, flooring, interior decoration, etc.. Pometia tomentosa wood floor red brown wood natural and elegant, with straight very natural wood grain, the texture of the actual alternate with, with restrained beauty, mixed with unfading popular elements - dark stripes, the visual effect is very harmonious. Wood with a golden sheen, no special smell and taste. Straight texture, surface texture slightly staggered. The structure is fine to medium, even, and the weight and the strength are medium, the hardness is slightly hard. Paint, glue came good, not easy to split, corrosion resistance and strong resistance. Air dry density 0.74g/cm3 suitable for furniture, flooring, interior decoration and so on.

2、Product Characteristic

1.The  floor treatment affordable, cost-effective.

2.longan floor delicate texture, color, texture and good installation effect, suitable for the pursuit of consistent user selection.

3.forest floor stability is better, but is not suitable for geothermal heating

3、Parameter

Material:Pometia pinnata

Origin: Zhejiang

Applicable scope: bedroom

Pattern: Wood

Special purpose: wear resistant

Plate finish: good

Surface shape: paint

Residual depression: no

Formaldehyde release rate: E0

Resistance: good

Wear layer thickness: 3mm

Abrasion resistance: (level) 1

Floor thickness: 18mm

Color: yellow

Specification 900*92*18

4、Reference pictures

Yongsen Small Grid Light (Pometia pinnata)Solid Wood Floor

Yongsen Small Grid Light (Pometia pinnata)Solid Wood Floor

Yongsen Small Grid Light (Pometia pinnata)Solid Wood Floor



 

 

 

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Q:is plywood floor the same as engineered wood?
You'll have to read the contract. It should specify. To me, engineered floors are not hardwood floors. Hardwood floors are made of hardwood, period. An engineered floor will not last as long.
Q:What is the best way to level a concrete floor before installing engineered hardwoods?
A few things need to be cleared up. The self leveler, if done properly should have worked. You probably didnt mix it thin enough, or you did not use enough and tried to trowel it around.. The product , like water, seeks its own level. Also, a 5/8 hump in the floor may have been within tolerance, especially in a room that large. You also should not be putting that floor on a raw concrete sub floor anyway. I am not sure of your budget, but it really should have some sort of sleeper system under it. The concrete has to much moisture, and the engineered floor is still a fibre product, which means its going to suck the moisture in. Go to the manufacturers site. Lastly dont use mortar. Sand base will turn to powder the more foot traffic it has.
Q:how to level old bowed wood floor before putting down engineered wood floor?
If the floor joists are warped, you'll first need to take up the old floor, then re-lay it, putting packing under each board to get it dead level. Then you can lay the new floor on top. The best way to pack the boards is with pieces of plywood, but check local building regulation in case they insist on tanalised timber.
Q:What is engineered wood flooring?
Yes, I fitted some oak engineered wood to our hallway a few years ago. It is fairly easy to do for a competent DIYer (me), and quite attractive. Far superior to that plastic covered cardboard known as laminate. I had just one issue:- The main watercock for the house is under the front of the hallway but I solved the problem of accessing it by fitting a couple of brass pull-up rings into the wood in that area.
Q:Can I put new flooring over an engineered wood floor?
A floating floor (laminate) would work fine if the raised height is not a problem.
Q:Multilayer solid wood floors and wood floors which good
The standard of solid wood flooring is GB/T15306-2001. Since the implementation of the standard since May 1, 2002, the original 94 standard was replaced. The new national standard has made the important revision and the supplement to the old national standard. The main content is to modify some of the size and content of the supplement, the application of the specification of the tree species and the requirements of the paint plate. At the same time, the impact toughness and abrasion resistance of the wood are eliminated. In the past the market once chaos marked name, name and fake hybrid between strange and eccentric, and what Watkins grapefruit, Jinbuhuan, rich wood, so that customers do not know true and false, good or bad. Therefore, the new standards must be strictly nominal, and in the form of appendix
Q:Can I staple down 1/2 inch engineered hardwood over glued down vinyl flooring on plywood?
Hardwood flooring usually need some type of material under it to help with moisture and padding. If there is nothing under the floor or just the vinyl then the floor will make a lot of noise when you walk on it. I would get with the manufacturer and see what they recommend you put under the floor. I would also make sure that the vinyl floor does not look like it has mold, water or some other type of damage that would cause the vinyl to bubble and cause damage to your new floor. Other than those items you should be safe to put the flooring over the vinyl.
Q:old hardwood floors in bad shape--should I cover them?
When you say there is no support I am wondering if there is a problem with your floor joists. If so, you need to fix this before doing anything else as this could be dangerous for your structure.
Q:How to calculate the general loss of wood floors?
floorCommon specifications are 900*90*18mm, 750*90*18mm, 600*90*18mmRough calculation method:Room area, floor number 0.228*1.05=
Q:engineered v solid wood flooring?
It all depends upon the wear layer on the engineered board. All of the wood above the tongue in T&G (tongue and grooved) flooring is the wear layer. In some engineered boards this wear layer is made up of the ply and a thin layer of the decorative wood. Engineered flooring is a better product if the wear layer is all decorative wood and is the same thickness as the solid board. Engineered flooring is much more stable in terms of expansion and contraction when compared to a solid board. Engineered flooring is comparable in price to a solid board which results in people believing that solid is much better value as there is more of the decorative wood. No way, engineered wins, as once a flooring is sanded down to the tongue or groove (after many, many years) the floor is scrap so the decorative wood from the tongue down in a solid board is there to carry the wear layer. I would only choose a single strip (some engineered boards are multi strip where more than one plank of the flooring are together on a single board) engineered where the wear layer is as thick as the comparable solid. This type of flooring is a much better product than the equivalent solid. When such a floor is fitted looks just like the solid equivalent but with much less problems regarding humidity and water. Don't let this put you off a solid board though, installed correctly and cared for it will last for just the same amount of time as engineered flooring. When laying the floor it makes no difference!

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