• Single Stage Vertical Axial Flow Pump System 1
Single Stage Vertical Axial Flow Pump

Single Stage Vertical Axial Flow Pump

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General Description
ZLB/ZLD series single stage vertical axial flow pumps are provided for delivering clear water, sewage water, rain water and other liquid with slight corrosive. The highest temperature of the liquid is not allowed more than 50℃.This series pumps have the features of large capacity and low head.  It is widely used for agriculture irrigation, water conservancy, water supply and drainage for municipal facilities, farm land, pollution water treatment,power station, water lifting.


Performance range  

Capacity Q: 18~1368 m3/h
Head   H: 100~360m

Instruction of pump type
Example1

500ZLB-6.

500: outlet diameter of pump(mm)

DK: Multi -stage horizontal split centrifugal pump

Z: Axial flow pump

L: Vertical.  

B: Blades adjustable when stationary (D-fixed blades)

6.3: Head at design point or Pump Specific Speed.



Structure
The pump is vertically installed with the inlet vertical downward and the outlet horizontal extending. The pump and the motor are connected directly and mounted on separate foundation. The axial thrust of the pump is carried by the motor. The pump adopts rubber guiding bearings.  The seal usually uses packing seal.  

Material of main parts
Shaft:  High-quality carbon steel.
Impeller:  Cast iron / Cast steel / Stainless steel.
Other parts:  Cast iron / welded steel plate.


Parts Range
pump, motor, common Foundation plate , sluice valve and check valve.  

Remaind:
Please indicate the material of main parts in your inquiry or purchase contract. Any special requirement, please don’t hesitate to contact us.  

Q: I need information about basic water pumps. I'll have to build a mechanical one for school. Do you have any ideas, information, designs, links? Thanks!
There are a number of different types of pumps (and some overlap between types, too). A suction pump basically sucks water up. This might be a piston pump, or a venturi pump (or some other types). This type of pump raises water up by lowering the air pressure above the water, and letting atmospheric pressure push the water up the tube. Suction pumps can't pull water up more than about 32 feet (because that's how high atmospheric pressure can lift a column of water) but they have the advantage that the pump can be located at the top of where you want the water (rather than down where tie water is). A Lift pump basically uses mechanical force to raise water upwards. This could be a chain of buckets, or an Archimedes screw, or a bubble-lift pump. All these pumps need to have at least part of the pump down at the water level (with the exception of the bubble lift, which is kind of a unique design). The most common water pumps are centrifugal pumps. These use a set of spinning vanes to pressurize the water. Water comes in at the center, and hit spinning vanes; these shove the water outward through centrifugal force, and the outlet pipe is at the outside edge of the circle. One other interesting type of pump is the hammer pump. It's sometimes used in remote farming areas, because you can use the energy of a running stream to pump water high up a cliff. In a hammer pump, you let water flow through a relatively long tube. The tube has a vertical pipe near it's end. You let the water run through, and then suddenly close off the end of the pipe. The momentum of the water (combined with the fact that water isn't very compressible) can force a shot of water very far up the vertical tube. Hope this gives you enough to search for on the web!
Q: Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
Q: Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!
I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean
Q: There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?
The home pump does not turn, but the motor is energized:A: there are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card. It is likely that the boot capacitor is broken and that the capacitor can be measured with a universal meter.Two: if the motor is sure to have electricity, check whether there is low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor). These conditions also cause the motor not to rotate, or the speed is low (easy to block), so it should be measured with a universal meter.Three: you can smell there is no burning flavor, may be motor winding interphase short-circuit. Bearings should be hard to break, and it's probably not good to find repairs.If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter. If the capacitor is damaged and does not know or can not see the mark parameter, it can be calculated and matched according to the following formula:In C=8JS (F), the capacitance of the C- is S- (F). The current density of the starting winding of J- motor is generally selected from 5 to 7A/ (mm) 2, and the cross section area (mm2) of the starting winding winding. Generally, you can choose 1000W/40 F.
Q: I have been quoted $600 to have a a water pump placed on my 2003 saturn vue. Also, another $300 if a thermostat is also needed. I cannot afford this at this time. Additionally, I have had problems with the car without reason all of a sudden not starting. Then, when I get the car to the mechanic it starts. It drives me nuts. Do I need to have the fuel pumps replaced? Do I need to replace both fuel pumps or just one, and which one?
Saturn Water Pump
Q: I got my oil changed yesterday and took like a 3 hour drive and back home and had no issues.. today I was at my work visiting and I noticed smoke coming from the engine [sort of more of steam] and a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. The light on the gauge inside the car for the engine temp isn't working but all the other ones are. A mechanic told me it was a bad water pump, but I just want some more opinions. Or if the oil change could of effected that.. My engine coolant wasn't that low but a greenish liquid was really leaking from underneath the car.
An oil change does not make a water pump go bad. Nor does the lack on an oil change. They just go bad over time. Just because there was steam like smoke coming from the exhaust system does not mean there is a water pump problem (water is a natural by product of combustion). Now the green fluid does mean that you have a coolant leak. But that could be because the reservoir was over filled when the engine was serviced. Some shops top off all fluids, and if the tank is over filled the excess has to go some where. But if could be a bad water pump. If so there will be water coming from the weep hole on the water pump. It could also be a bad hose. So unless I craw under it and take a good look, I don't know. If you do replace the water pump, and you have a timing belt that can be replaced, spring for the extra parts because in many cases the labor is already being paid for and the parts are less expensive then the labor at a later date. FYI: I do water pumps every other belt replacement for this reason.
Q: It DID start after the Water Pump was put on. And i have not yet been able to detect a vacuum leak. The quot;whistling noiseseems consistent with RPMs, and the quot;dieseling(run-on) stopped in all but a rapid succession of 5 quick ~1-minute start/stops when the engine was fully warmed.. then it minorly ran-on.Could i be driving myself nuts over a Water Pump sound, and if it IS a Water Pump bearing, do i need a new Water Pump?1984 Chevy Camaro. 2.8 V6 carb'd 165,000 miles Auto.
Yes the water pump can make that noise even when new. The pump will keep working until the seal fails. You will see water pissing out of a small hole under the pump and that is when you replace it.
Q: Ok, I took my '93 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L in to get the serpentine belt replaced, as the old one had snapped. They told me that the water pump had locked up and that's what made the belt break. The thing is, I had to get the radiator and water pump replaced this past summer and I am wondering what might've made my water pump lock up since it is new. The Jeep has a lot of miles and I'm slowly having to fix a lot of things, so I'm trying to be sure that I don't fix the pump just to find another problem. Also, the repair place told me the water pump looks brand new, so I know that it was definitely replaced, but should I contact the place the fixed the pump and radiator and see if there's some sort of warranty on the pump?
Yes, by all means, see if there was a warranty with that water pump. Find out if it was a genuine Jeep water pump or an aftermarket (made by another company). If it was an aftermarket brand, it may have a one year warranty if it was a good one. Ask the mechanic who did it. He might still have the paperwork. Also ask him if he warranties his work. He might have put in a rebuilt or remanufactured pump. They often come with 1 year, 12,000 mile warranties like the better aftermarket ones. Did you save your receipt? You may need it for the warranty.
Q: WHERE IS THE WATER PUMP LOCATED ON A 1995 HONDA CIVIC
Hello, okorder
Q: Im replacing the water pump in my 1992 toyota celica, and i cant get the pully off! i have been working hard for like an hour, i took the belts off. all i have is good old fashoned sockets and crescent wrenches. do i need to get the pully off? and is it lefty loosey and righty tighty or righty loosy lefty tighty?? because sometimes i hear they reverse it. thanks- jordan
Before you waste another minute get your hands on a Chiltons, or other good auto repair manual. I've never see a replacement water pump without a pulley on it, that didn't have a hub for the non-electric fan to bolt to. Get the new pump with a pulley already on it.

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