• Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 3
Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Ref Price:
$500.00 - 5,000.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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1. Description

Single stage in-line centrifugal pump with standard motor and mechanicak seal.

Designed to be pulled out from the top when disassemble, it can be repaired without affecting the pipelines.

Less accessible to the impurity in the liquid.

2. Application

The liquid shall be clean, thin, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and non-explosive, without any solid grain and fiber that maigh be damage the pump mechanically or chemically.

3. Technical Data

Capacity: 4~1200m3/h

Head: 20~107m

Liquid Temperature: -15~110℃

Max. Working Pressure: normal type PN12 bar, special type PN16 bar

4. Pump Structure & Material

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4       Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q:What things in my car could the seizing of my water pump cause? As I stated in another question, the power steering went, the red battery light came on and it over heated. The mechanic said it seized and i'm lucky the engine didn't seize. He has to look into it more. I'm just really curious as to what kind of damage i've done and the possibilities! thanks in advance.
If your car has a Surpenteen belt : 1 long belt runs all the componets If one of the components locks up (normally the belt will sling or break) and every thing else that is belt driven , becomes disabled. And the lights will come on.
Q:should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
It is wise to seek advise from professional mechanics as to what process you are considering to do with this vehicle. This vehicle is 2013-1994= 19/20 years old presumably in service since 1994. The miles you report as under 160,000 miles. You inquire as if you are inexperienced in automotive affairs. Well, here is my experience speaking. Any vehicle over 100,000 miles is to be suspect of wear and tear and even abuse by prior owners and they require inspection and evaluation. Engines are to be checked for compression and leaks, electrical system, corrosion, engine mounts, exhaust, transmission, coolant system, etc. etc. etc. Only a trained mechanic can do this. Unless you have receipts, records at a dealership, etc. as evidence of service and repairs, then all parts are original. You ask as to the timing chain. I expand to include everything proposing short of an engine rebuild. Cars do a lot of work and suffer deterioration each second the motor runs and each inch the car moves over the earth. IF there an inspection plate or port that provides for a viewing of the condition of the timing belt, a mechanic will know. My car, a 2001 Audi TT has that feature. Now, imagine the purchase price of this Toyota, add the expense of the inspection and possible repairs such as the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant replacement, possible a new radiator, suspension parts, exhaust parts, etc. in need of replacement, etc. and it is up to you to decide IF this vehicle is worth the expense for no matter how money you spend, the retail market value shall remain the same. That means around $2,500 to $2,700. This vehicle, as new, was not and is not now, a fuel efficient vehicle with an average MPG of 14 MPG on a good day. I do not know as to your driving needs but at 60 MPH and 14 MPG that mean each 14 miles $3.50, average, goes out the tail pipe for a nice $14.00 per HOUR cost on fuel. Kind of expensive. You choice and decision. Good luck.
Q:99 Cherokee I6. There is low pitched noise coming from the area of the water pump and alternator. Like a grinding grumbling. The water pump pulley is not loose and will not rock back and forth. Nothing is leaking. Tomorrow is forecast as icey and I have a choice of sending my wife 30 miles each way to work in the Cherokee or a 2005 Mustang, which is absolutely terrible in the snow or ice. I can get the car into the shop on Thursday for diagnosis and repair. Since the pulley is not loose I am thinking it will be OK for another day even if it is the water pump bearings. Thoughts?
nothing is leaking. you're not even sure, positively that the water pump is the culprit. I learned something last week, that if you spray wd40 on the offending pulley it will silence it. The other pulleys of course will not be affected.
Q:I have a 1985 Jaguar XJ6 that runs great, that I was thinking about trading for a 1991 Alfa Romeo 164 that needs a water pump. Just wanted to get feedback from Alfa owners and find out how hard it would be to put a water pump in the car. Thanks
About $130.00 for the water pump (first link below). As for the difficulty, take a look at the second link for a good thread on replacing the water pump on the 164.
Q:What is the function of boiler feed pump, condensate pump, vacuum pump and low drain pump in operation?
The feed pump is a pump for supplying water to the boiler and maintaining the water level of the boiler. The condensate pump provides water to the deaerator after condensing the turbine and provides water for some condensate users. Vacuum pump is to maintain the vacuum of the pump, the pump is to lower the drain in a timely manner to the next level of low pump
Q:I am trying to areting my pond but air pump cost too much. I have an extra water pump available if I make two intake opening, one for water the other for air, would it work? or will it blow up the pump and kill all of my koi because it is made for pump water.
If you use a fountain spray you can add air by spraying water up in the air and letting it fall back into the pond. The best solution is to buy a pond aerator. They are available on line and at some garden centers. .
Q:Had house power washed today and need my water to work again!
what i would do is let it dry over nite if you cant wait stantd on rubber wear rubber gloves leather on top of thoes gloves. dont touch anything else use somthing rubber to try to reset the breaker. if it pops again you will be forced to let it dry. then try again. if it still pops you will need to replace the breaker. don't take electricity lightly it kills many people a year.
Q:What is a 1 inch water pump?
A pump with a diameter of 1 inches.
Q:The plumber has disappeared on us with 99% of the job done. Our new basement remodel has baseboard heating installed, a water pump attached to the furnace/boiler, but no heat downstairs because their is no thermostat. I haven't checked to see if he did any wiring. (Wouldn't that be an electrician's job?) I've ordered a wireless thermostat kit, and I'm assuming installation instructions for the base are included, but it hasn't arrived yet. What should I do to get that pump pumping hot water to keep us nice and cozy?
That part in the picture is a high limit control with manual reset. It has nothing to do with the pump. You will need more than a thermostat to control the added pump. When you have more than one pump the system is zoned .You need a switching relay panel (Taco SR502) that not only turns on the pump , but also the burner. There is a lot to know here and it's best left to a heating contractor.
Q:could you explain the process by which water is pumped out of the ground for purposed such as drinking water or irrigation? Can you put it in terms a high school senior would understand?
(1) Identify your potential water source through various methods. (2) Drill a small exploratory hole to different depths, test water pressure and water quality. (3) Drill the complete borehole for production and retrieval of the groundwater. (4) Complete the physical well, will a sheath to allow in the water at the wanted levels, solid pluge to keep other levels out. (5) Insert a chemical and physical filter system (small screen membranes, activate charcoal and diatomaceous earth, etc.) (6) Put in the submersible pump and plug it in. (7) The pump is made up of a motor, an intake and a centrifugal pump. It's all sealed so no water can penetrate through. The water is suctioned into the centrifugal pump, which is an impeller type device. The water is then pushed out at a much higher pressure rate than it came in. This is how the pump works from the bottom instead of above ground. The water is sent to the pressure tank, sometimes referred to as a holding tank, and is kept at a constant pressure, so when you turn on your faucet or shower, the water comes out quickly. As you use the water, more water is pumped into the tank and as the pressure drops in the tank, it will automatically come on and pressurize again.

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