Mining sand dredging gravel electric dredge pump

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 200 set/month

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Quick Details

Model Number: YQ G/ GH
Theory: Centrifugal Pump
Structure: Single-stage Pump
Usage: Water
Power: Electric
Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Fuel: electric
Pressure: High Pressure
Application: Sewage
color: any color
certification: ISO9001
applications: dredging
applications1: gravel
applications2: mining
applications3: metal smelting
packing: wooden case
OEM: welcome
MOQ: 1 set

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard exporting wooden case or as the customer's request
Delivery Detail:	within 10-20 days upon the receipt of the payment

Specifications

electric dredge pump:
1.Anti-wearing, anti-corrosion and low abrasion rate
2. Non-clogging
3. Wide passage
4. ISO9001

Specifications:

1) General description:

Type G(or GH) gravel pumps are the series products introducted from Australia. Gravel pumps are designed for continuously handling the most difficult higher abrasive slurries which contain too big solids to be pumped by a common pump. They are suitable for delivering slurries in Mining. Explosive-sludge in metal melting, dredging in dredger and course of rivers, and other fields. Type GH pumps are of high-head ones.

Construction of this pump is of single casing connected by means of clamp bands and wide wet-passage. The wet-parts are made of Ni-hard and high chromium abrasion-resistance alloys. The discharge direction of pump can be oriented in any direction of 360°. This type of pump possesses the advantages of easy installation and operation, good performance of NPSH and abrasion-resistance.

2) Features:

1,Horizontal, cantilevered, single-deck structure, centrifugal pump.

2, Large internal passages reduce internal velocities maximizing wear life resulting in lower operating costs

3, Easy installation,discharge outlet can be adjusted at any direction of 360.
4,Cylinder bearing assembly,grease lubrication ,adjusting the distance between impeller and pump.

5,Mechanical seal, expeller seal and packing seal for selection.

Q:I am new to saltwater tank, and i what to add a sump to my tank, but I don't know what to add to it. what water pump? do i add the filter to the sump or does the filter stay in the tank.: If you're using a sump, the pump you use will have to be chosen based on the size of your tank and how much flow you need. The kinds of fully submersible pumps that are used for ponds and other aquarium applications are best. You really could put your filter on either, but most people I know that keep saltwater [and myself included] keep filters, heaters, and skimmers in the sump so they're out of sight. This also gives you more room in the display tank for live rock and fish if the equipment isn't crowded in there. All you really need to have in the display are powerheads to keep the water circulating so dead spots don't build up. And without the equipment hanging on the back, and only power cords coming out, you can use a glass cover to reduce evaporation and keep your fish from jumping out.

Q:Need to pump water from the stream to my livestock tank on a regular basis.: There are plenty of water pumps on the market, but solar powered? I have my doubts that anything smaller than a large photocell array would supply enough electricity for such a heavy load as a water pump. (I could be wrong.) If you used photocells to charge a battery, then used a timer to run the pump for a few minutes a day, that would probably do what you need. Another option, if the stream is fast-flowing, might be to use a paddle wheel to drive a pump directly, then have an overflow line from the tank back to the stream. That way your livestock would have fresh water all the time as long as the stream kept flowing. Most farmers are very smart at being able to figure things out and making them work, so I presume you could do this.

Q:Can I put in fluid and drive to the Service Station or should I have it towed? The fluid flows out as fast as I put it in. Thanks!: Depends on how bad the leak, and the condition of the bearings. If the pump is just leaking you may be OK. If the fan is mounted directly to the pump and is grinding or wobbling around, don't do it. The fan could break loose and cause expensive damage. Good luck

Q:I have a 1997 mercedes 320e and it is leaking very bad. I need a temporary fix for the water pump, so that I can take it to the repair shop that is 10 min. away.: old mechanic trick get pepper and pour it in there/use a whole box if you have it/works

Q:Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?: Then look at what is the circulating water pump and condensate pump users, circulating water with oil in the oil cooler then, condensed water supply pump seal water, water pump can't pump up, how will you know.

Q:Why my Water Pump is leaking again? It was replace 2 month ago brand new water pump?: Surely a brand new water pump is still under warranty - - - even rebuilt ones around here come with a 12 month warranty.

Q:What's the meaning of a single-stage pump?: I. meaning:Single stage and multistage refers to the number of impellers. Generally equal lift and flow, multi-stage pump than single stage pump power is low, that is, to save power, and high efficiency, long life.Two, how to distinguish?:Water pump said double suction refers to both sides of the water pump has suction port, and single suction pump only from the side of water absorption, single suction pump flow is small, double suction pump flow larger. The axial flow pump blade is a little like the blade of an electric fan. The axial direction of the axial flow pump is smaller, and the flow rate is relatively large, which is mostly used in the first stage pumping station of the water plant. JC is a deep well pump, with a large lift, but the flow is often not large. Centrifugal pumps are the most widely used at present.

Q:My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene: check for leaks in the system, the water pump may show signs of leaks or perhap even make a noise, flush out the radiator, it may be stopped up preventing good circulation, make sure thermostat is installed properly, if there is no signs of leaking,or no noise such a a bad bearing, or water pump not loose when you try to shake it, most likely I would change out the heater core.. and also replace the radiator cap so the system is properly pressurized.

Q:My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks: Could be the pressure switch (cut in and out switch). It is designed to start the pump at a certain low pressure and stop the pump at a desired high pressure. If it is allowing the pump to run past the high pressure limit, it may also not be kicking in the pump at the low pressure.

Q:I received a call from my daughter who said that the water pump was making a grinding noise. She sent a photo to me showing 0 psi on the gauge. I came home to find it actually working again but after running water straight from the pump I found that it is really rusty. What is this caused from? Our water was nice and clear! We've had freezing conditions here. Still doesn't explain the sudden rust.: If you have galvanized pipes there is always a trace amount of metal (rust) in your water but if you use the water every day it isn't noticeable, as it comes through in such small quantities. It could be that one or more of your pipes froze and cracked, releasing some larger chunks of rust from the walls of the pipes or pressure tank. Run the water steady for a while and see if it clear up. It would be wise to check all of your exposed pipes/tanks for leaks now too because if a pipe or tank cracks it will either be leaking now or shortly in the future. The rust/ice could have also been temporarily blocking the pipes, causing the 0 pressure. If the pump is running with no water, it will run faster and much louder.

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