High Quality Electro Galvanized Iron Wire With High Quality

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 5 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 100 m.t./month

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2.Have machine to produce
3.Materials test report
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Silvery and soft binding wire

Galvanized metal wire

Material: low carbon steel

Surface treatment: galvanized

Gauge	SWG	BWG	Metric systems
8#	4.06	4.19	4.0
9#	3.66	3.76
10#	3.25	3.40	3.50
11#	2.95	3.05	3.00
12#	2.64	2.77	2.80
13#	2.34	2.41	2.50
14#	2.03	2.11
15#	1.83	1.83	1.80
16#	1.63	1.65	1.65
17#	1.42	1.47	1.40
18#	1.22	1.25	1.20
19#	1.02	1.07	1.00
20#	0.91	0.89	0.90
21#	0.81	0.813	0.80
22#	0.71	0.711	0.70

Q: Can old speaker wire cause a little static sound??: The only way I could see old wire causing what you describe is if there is a lot of oxidation on the part where it is making contact. It is possible, but not likely and just simply jiggling things should cause the oxidation to come off, if that is what it is.

Q: I recently re-wired my house with 4 wire telephone wire. They all meet in the attic. How do I wire them together and is there some kind of junction plate I can use? Additionally, I did also wire my house with Cat6 wire, but would like to keep it strictly for Internet.: (links just for reference, from search engine results)

Q: I bought a single pole dimmer switch to install in my dining room and when I took the old switch out nothing looked right. There are two wires which were joined together by another single wire which was attached to the top screw. There was another single wire (I believe the ground wire) attached to the bottom screw. I disconnected the first two wires and attached them separately to the black wires on the dimmer and attached the ground wires together. It didn't work. I've tired several different times with no luck. I put the wires back the way they were and attached them to the old switch and they no longer work ether. Help! How can I fix this problem? The old wires appear to be a very thick copper covered in black plastic and cloth.....: The 'answerer' Justin K thinks you have knob and tube wiring. A lot of early electrical installations were done in the old days with out a ground, many types of early 'romex' did not include a ground. You may or may not have 'knob and tube' wiring - but it really dose not matter. The two wires which were joined together and had a third wire attached are the hot wires. The other wire (lower screw terminal) is the 'load' wire - it goes out to your light fixture. The reason the those 2 wires were attached together is that one of them is hot, and the other wire is a 'feed' to supply power to your next switch or receptacle. I am an electrical contractor, this is how I would fix the problem - I'm not suggesting that you do it though. #1 turn the breaker/fuse back on. #2 use a voltage tester to determine which wire is now hot. #3 touch the hot wire to the other wires 1 at a time. The hot wire when it is touching the 'load' wire will turn on the lighting fixture. Mark the 'load' wire with some black electrical tape. #4 turn the power back off #5 attach the marked 'load' wire to one of the switch terminals. #6 take the other 2 wires (incoming power, and the out going power) and join them together with a third wire ---LIKE IT WAS ORIGINALLY. Place that third onto the other terminal of the switch. it dose not mater which terminals you use - it will work just fine.

Q: If someone were holding onto a high-voltage wire by both hands, why would his/her body have the same potential as the wire? How come his/her body would attain the same potential as the wire?: Any open ended conductor (a human body in this case) making contact with another conductor will automatically attain the same Voltage potential as the other conductor with respect to the opposite terminal of the source Voltage that supplied the Voltage. For example if you make good contact with your finger to the positive terminal of a 12V battery then that puts your whole body at 12 Volts above the negative terminal of that battery. Two conductors in contact with each other will always be at the same Voltage potential at the point of contact. The fact that both hands are on the wire makes no difference because the resistance of the high Voltage wire between the hands is so small compared to the resistance through a human body from one hand through the chest and out the other hand that all the current if any would go through the wire and not through the human body. If however the wire was cut in two at any point between the two hands then one hand would have the full positive source voltage and the other hand would be at reference 0 Volts. Consequently the body would most likely immediately burn to a crisp due to the current through the body. If the body did not disintegrate and current continued to flow through it then a Voltage gradient would be established from one hand to the other with one hand at full wire Voltage and the other hand at 0 Volts.

Q: I been having chargeing problems, and I found a tan with black stripe wire in wire harness by the alternator and I cant fig out where it goes. it has a factory conn. on it with a 3/8 diam. hole in it: 22re Wiring Harness

Q: If you put clay over wire and bake it would the wire melt and ruin the sculpture?Details on wire:I'm not sure what kind of wire it is but it says Bright Floral Wire..Wire is silverDetails on Clay:Again, im not sure what clay...its from polyform products and it says Premo Sculpey so im guessing Polymer? :#92;Clay is Black.Bakes for 275F (130C)30 minutes per/par/por1/4 in (6mm): No the wire won't melt - besides fuse wire or solder, the lowest common melting point wire is aluminum and it melts at over 1200F Floral wire is usually steel and melts at more like 3000F, but even if it were copper, that melts at about 1900F The real problem with using wire in polymer sculptures is that when the clay shrinks in baking it may pull apart along the wire or that you may make parts of your sculpture thin (like legs or arms) and part thick (like body or head) and thick clay tends to crack - so these parts need to be hollow, which is why people talk about crumpling heavy duty aluminum foil as a core, so the clay is more uniform in thickness all over. Don't forget to have an oven thermometer for accurate temperature checking - don't trust the knob setting on the oven.

Q: I recently bought a set of DT Moto emergency lights for my pickup and after installing them i found when i went to wire them to my battery the wire was too short. I didn't install the grille lights just the visor. Could i cut wires from the grille set and wire them to extend the visor light wire?: I'm looking online to find out what DT Moto lights are. Ok, I see what they are. I didn't know the brand name. LED lights in general are not high current, so they probably use lamp cord. I want to explain something to you about polarity. Electronic circuits are sensitive to the polarity of the DC electricity. The positive (+) and the negative (-) connections must be observed. So many people have absolutely no clue about this. There are just two wires. But if you extend them, you have a 50-50 chance of wiring correctly or incorrectly. There is only one allowable way. If wrong, it WON'T work, and probably will blow up the circuitry. So connection to battery or cigarette lighter plug is extremely important not to reverse the polarity. If just the LED lights got reversed, they wouldn't light, but they wouldn't be injured. Just reverse the wiring. But to the 12 volt source, polarity can't be wrong. Not for an instant. If you look closely at the insulation, you will see that one wire has smooth insulation, and one wire either has milti-ribbed insulation, or a single rib down the side. If you extend wiring, make sure to connect smooth to smooth and ribbed to ribbed. Wires should be soldered with electronic solder and the joints covered with heat shrink tubing. No crimped barrel connectors, or twisted bare wires with tape, or house wiring wire nuts. These methods all beg for failure. I don't know about robbing wire from one place and connecting to another. Is the one wire actually too long? You'll never need it? I guess you could take it. But me personally, I'd go get some wire from a lamp store. Match the wire conductor gauge (size), not the insulation size. Most lamp cord is 18 gauge. Some is 16 gauge. You can get 14 gauge or even 12 gauge. Thicker is a smaller number. Places that install car audio systems often have/sell thicker lamp cord. Have I told you enough?

Q: Ok. so i wired my cd deck into my 92 buick, but everytime i start the car i have to manually turn on the cd deck. i also have to change the settings everytime! and once i turn off the car the setting will not save and the setting will be lost. Now everytime i turn my car on i have to manually put the settings again! this did not happen in my old car! and i think it might be the wiring! Because the last cd deck i had did save the settings! and would turn thge cd player on everytime i turned on my car!! and it would play the track back, right where i left off. please help! i did attach the yellow cable wire the red cable to the battery current.? is there a problem!: You should have the yellow power wire connected to constant power and the red wired to ACC. You don't and this is why it's bahiving the way it is.

Q: The house was built in the 50's. Two wires are coming up from the switch and two wires are coming down from the top of the wall. I do not see a third wire. I attached the wall light wires left wires to left wires and right wires to right wires and light stayed on, when I moved the switch it threw the breaker. So I used may combination and the switch would not make the light work. It appears one wire may be white and one black. Help please!: I think that 'ed' has given you good advice, if you know *nothing* about electrical wiring inside of the average home and about how two-way switching is wired. The two-way switch is designed for two wall switches at different locations from a common light or other electrical appliance to be able to turn the common appliance 'on' or 'off' independently from each other. If you have one of the boxes that a new two-way switch came in, it should show you, with usual wiring installed under the modern U.S. standard electrical code, which colored wires should be attached to which terminal connections at the INDIVIDUAL, separate switches. Ordinarilary the color coding for electrical wiring in the modern residence is 'white' is for the common 'ground'; 'black' is a 'hot - 115/120 volt-to-ground' wire; and the red should be a loop wire to the common appliance. When one of the wall switches is in the 'on' (up) position, and the other wall switch is in the 'off' (down) position, electrical power is furnished to the appliance. Changing the position of either of the wall switches, cuts off the power to the appliance. And changing the position of either ONE of the switches will supply power again. If you've done any wiring before, you should be able to figure it out, but follow what 'ed' suggested if you can, just to be sure.

Q: I got molds done a while back for my finishing wires on my braces. I'm getting them Tuesday, but I'm not really sure what the difference is between finishing wires and the wires I have now. So I'd be delighted if someone could explain:) Also, after you get finishing wires, about how much longer is it until you get your braces off? And, would you recommend the wire retainers, or the clear ones? Why? Thanks in advance!: Finishing wires are for the final stage of braces. They are pretty strong wires that snap tightly into your brackets so the orthodontist can finely control the teeth and line everything up nicely. I can't say how long until you get your braces off...that's kind of a case by case basis. Typically the wire retainers are better than the clear ones from a hygiene perspective. They can also be adjusted unlike the plastic ones.

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