• fluorocarbon paint board System 1
  • fluorocarbon paint board System 2
  • fluorocarbon paint board System 3
  • fluorocarbon paint board System 4
fluorocarbon paint board

fluorocarbon paint board

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
120000pcs pc/month

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LUTAI coating board is a slap-up interior&exterior decorative material with high -tech green enviromental protection.Based on the multiple inorganic material by high pressure. The surface adopt spefical technics to coating UV curable fluorocarbon dope. And will have a refreshing experience due to rich color,lively line .better effect of simulation.Enviromentalprotection,unvioresistant,alkali&acid-resistance ,corrosion-resistance,firproof,duration weather ablity,dampproof, durability,stable color, bacteriostat,weather resistance .

There are four types of this product .They are PURE COLOR SERIES , STONE TEXTURE SERIES ,RHINESTONE SERIES ,WOOD GRAIN SERIES .

TEST    ITEMS

RESULT

PHYSICAL MECHANICS PROPERTY

DENSITY

1.4G/CM3

WATER CONTENT

10%

WATER ABSORPTION

28%

WATER IMPERMEABILITY

The duration of the test shall be 24h, traces of moisture may appear on the under surface of the sheet , but in no instance shall there be any formation of drops of water

IMPACT RESISTANCE

The surface of sheet doesn’t have penetrating crack when using once falling ball impact test

BENDING STRENGTH

>16MPA

FREEZING RESISTANCE

Without no crack and delamination after 25 times freeze thaw recycling test .

INCOMBUSTIBLE

GB8624 A GRADE

RADIOACTIVITY

Internal exposure index


1.0IRa

External exposure index

1.0Iγ

COATING QUALITY

GLOSS  DEVIATION  (60)

10

ADHESIVE FORCE ,LEVEL

1

PENCIL  HARDNESS

2H

MORTAR RESISTANCE,24H

No changing

WATER RESISTANCE,168H

No abnormalities

ACID-BASE RESISTANCE,168H

No abnormalities

DAMP AND HOT RESISTANCE,1000H

No bubbles , no rust, no crack

COLD RESISTANCE OF THE HEAT CYCLE

(TEN TIMES )

No abnormalities

POLLUTION RESISTANCE

PASS

DIRT-PICK UP RESISTANCE

10%

RINSING RESISTANCE (TIMES)

10000

SOLVENT(BUTANONE) WIPING TEST (TIMES)

100

SOLT FOG RESISTANCE ,4000H

No bubbles , no rust, no crack

ARTIFICIAL WEATHERING AGING RESISTANCE ,4000H

No bubbles , no falling off, no crack

Q: Will the cement board rust?
Reinforced concrete cement board pouring density is good, long-term bubble in the water will not rust cracking.
Q: Do you have to tape and fill seams on cement board when applying ceramic tile over it like when doing drywall?
With no offense meant to answer 1, Tape NEED NOT be applied to concrete backer board; for the purpose of tiling over. Thin set can be skimmed into the seams and screw holes. Certainly the board should be flush at it's face with any adjacent. If the house is wood frame; I suppose one might think that at some point it might shift; but we hope, not in our lifetime. Steven Wolf
Q: I am trying to anchor a woody climbing wall to a cinder block garage wall and have settled on anchoring boards into the cinder blocks then building from there. so anything anchored there would be sharing a load of me-200 lbs, the plywood base and frame - 50lbs. plus any force generated by my jumping around on it.
The blocks themselves are designed to carry a deadload from top to bottom. The walls of your blocks are to thin to carry any outward pressure, like you bouncing on it. I wouldn't trust cinder blocks to hold wall anchors. If you try to hammer-drill the middle of a cinder block, it will shatter. Anchor your boards vertically to the wall so that the floor is carrying any downward force. It would be best to install a deadman board to the ceiling joists which would hold your vertical boards tight to the wall. Anchors in the mortar joints would assist to carry the load more than anything else. Big fat toggle bolts would suffice in the application I described here. Edit, Use expansion bolts, or PL400 construction adhesive with concrete nails to secure wood to the floor. It also occours to me, you could just frame up a stud wall in front of the block wall. Anchor it to the floor with glue and nails, or expansion bolts, and nail it to the ceiling joists up top.
Q: I need to know if hardibacker board is as good as other cement boards for use behind a tiled shower wall.?
Hardibacker is the best backing esp for wall I have found and used. I recommend it to all my customers, even though it is expensive. It is stable which is the most important item prior to tile installation. Moisture resistant is another fine point. The only draw back its a pain to install because its so hard. Drywall after awhile will break down due to moisture, hardibacker doesn't.
Q: Where is the cement pressure plate installed?
Wood keel plus cement pressure plate: The most construction method, the construction of the most simple, easy. Disadvantages: wood keel in the bathroom humid environment is easy to absorb water, mold, resulting in deformation, so that the chip fried. Remedy: After installation, paste the front of the anti-root tube to do waterproof, to prevent the ground water into the riser, immersed in the wood keel.
Q: the neighbor has a son and him and his friends constantly makes noise instigating trouble. I complain to the manager, it stops and than starts back up again a week later, so I rather put up something that can help
I believe so. My mom has a townhouse that has a fire wall made of cinder block which is the shared wall for 2 units & we don't hear a thing. Of course, her neighbor is elderly and doesn't throw head banger parties.
Q: Cement board in Malaysia?
you can find cement board sell in most hardware shop in malaysia
Q: do I need to put down a vapor barrier or cement board or can the hardwood be glued down and the tiles with thinset? Also what type grout should I use on floor and wall tiles?
Porcelain or clay tiles can be glued directly on concrete. For hardwood, I suggest a floating floor over a vapor barrier.
Q: I know it sounds odd but if you set a cement block between to supports and hit it with your fist its really not hard at all to break it. Why is it that a 1 thick cement block breaks easier than a 1 thick piece of pine. Also it seems like maybe its just me but if you hit a 1 thick oak board your fist doesnt have to be in contact as long to break it. With the cement block it doesn't take much to make it break.
So whats your question?
Q: We have a home built in 1999 in the Gulf Coast area. On either side of the front entrance are flat cement board posts and above is a lintel. Last year I noticed the lintel was starting to have a gap between the brick and lintel itself as well as pulling away the top of one of the posts. I used heavy-duty exterior adhesive to try to reattach (used the ladder against it as pressure). I caulked and painted afterwards. Now, the separation is back, but much worse. I'm not even sure who to call to look at this. If I know why this happened, I could better figure out the next steps. Any ideas (I can find nothing through my research).
Could be what the first poster suggests. Without actually seeing it, it's really hard to tell. Are there other places in the home that are suddenly not level? Or things that used to be square now not square? That's usually a good indication of a foundation issue. The first thought that popped into my head was a moisture problem from some where. Most likely a leak above the area. Could be very small but over time is creating issues within the wall and the cement board will have a tendency to attract the moisture. Even a bad seal around a window or the soffit area above will create an issue such as you are experiencing.

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