• DW15 Series Air Circuit Breakers System 1
DW15 Series Air Circuit Breakers

DW15 Series Air Circuit Breakers

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Q:And my truck still want start without jumping that wire
Always double check fuses. A poor connections could be the problem but I would be suspicious of the wiring. If the wires run under the truck, make sure they aren't damaged from debris or rubbing on other components. Try jumping at the relay +. If it runs while jumped at relay +, then you know its a problem before the relay (ign switch wiring, fuses, etc)
Q:I drive a '97 Dodge Dakota. I've had it for 3yrs now. When I first got it from my G-pa,the headlights were acting up at that time which was like October/November '06. Got a new switch and that did the trick. Well apparently not because the same problem came right back. And when the switch was pulled out we flipped it over to see if there was a problem underneath it. Well you could clearly see one of the terminals was fried. So again we replaced the switch. Problem solved. WRONG. The same problem has come back to haunt me now,2yrs later. Now as before,the headlights would come on and as I drove they would flicker on and off,though if the high beams were switched on or held on,I would have no problems. Now they don't flicker on and off,I pull the switch and they don't even come on. I can hold in the high beam switch and they stay. There is the scoop. Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated.
Verify there is battery voltage present at the switch on the Red/White wire. If not check fuses. If ok check for battery voltage coming out of the headlight switch on the Light Green wire in the headlight position. If no voltage on LG wire , replace headlamp switch. .
Q:At the mercedes made in 1983, 300sd, which fuse is for the clock?Which numbers are on the fuse itself, or which position is the fuse among the other fuses in the row?
Simply look at the fuse box and it will tell you what fuse and the power of the fuse to use.
Q:I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
IOD stands for Ignition Off Draw, so obviously it will always exist on modern cars. There are things like clock, radio stations, etc., that always draws a small amount of parasitic current. I am not sure what the normal IOD draw should be, but is yours so much that the battery dies over night and won't start? If not, then forget about it. Try taking the battery cable terminal off a battery post and putting a test light across the gap. It is does not light bright, then it is probably too low of amps to worry about. But if it is too much, then you disconnect things one at a time, like stereo, to determine the cause.
Q:both these components stopped working suddenly on my automatic 2001 toyota Rav4 today. I have had no prior problems until this morning, now both arent registering anything at all. Any ideas what the problem might be, and how much its going to set me back financially to fix it?
get the speedometer working and the odometer will start working.
Q:99 jetta was working fine till one day it didnt startit didnt crank or many any sounds when i go to start it i also noticed before i did this that my key remote was not locking or unlocking my doors, also the controls on the door to lock and unlcock didnt work either everything lights up headlights , radio. but it wont start,, i had it jumped and nothing happend. mechanic tested the battery and said the battery is fine. and he doesnt know wat happend.any help ?
Are your Brake Lights working, as there is a Brake light switch that goes flaky, then move the Transmission selector to Neutral and try to start it It sounds as if your neutral/park interlock is possibly wonky.
Q:I have 1999 Honda Accord. Recently, the buttons on the Climate control panel stopped working. The round knobs controlling air flow into the car and the temperature are fine. It is just that I cannot control where air gets directed via those buttons. At the same time, the clock is not illuminated (the clock is fine). Would like to find out if there is a fuse or an electrical component controlling both (control panel and the clock light) has gone bad? if yes, where can I find it? thanksrajesh
definite actual a wheel bearing, have the code ran for unfastened at a great number of places,on the abs element,it would help comprehend which bearing is going undesirable,in case you may not hear it now,front the noise will pass away for a 2nd if turning the wheel particularly
Q:i just upgraded from a p200-2 to a t500.1 they are rockford amps. i had the p200 powering two alpine type r's. abc warehouse told me i was severely underpowering them and continuing to do so would ruin them. they hooked up 4 gauge wiring but kept my fuse and fuse holder. i plan on buying the bigger fuse holder and the 200 watt or voltage (idk how they measure them) fuse for the amp but i was wondering if i could use it for a couple weeks until i have the time and 40 bucks to buy and install these parts. they also told me that my jvc cd player doesnt have the right input for subs even tho ive been there 3 times with that same cd player and they never told me this. heres a list of my stuff. 2 alpine type r 12 inch subs in a q-logic ported box. a jvc cd player ( i payed round 150) a rockford t500.1 amp, 4 gauge power and ground wires, 8 guage rcas, and remote wire, a fuse holder that came with a 8 gauge amp wiring kit and a 80 watt fuse. what would you do next if you were in my situation?
the reason they said underpowering them is bad is because people usually just turn up the volume to make up for lack of watts. when you turn up the volume too loud the signal gets distorted and distortion is what will ruin your sub. Distortion kills subs not watts. i've heard of people pumping twice the recomended watts to a sub without problems.
Q:I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.
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Q:I recently bought a truck, it starts and runs great. However there is a serious electrical problem, the windshield wipers, electronic windows, and radio do not work. I have checked all the fuses and none were blown. Where else do I go from here in finding what the problem would be.
The others listed are good possibilities, but a common issue especially with older vehicles is grounding. All the wiring to the accessories is in your harness, but every connection completes the circuit through the frame. Check where the ground wires for these accessories hooks back to the metal. It may be to the dash, body panel or the frame itself.

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