Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade

Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade System 1

Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade

Q:Review the motorcycles from 1973 two strokes and compare from today ; then which are the better bikes?: Motorcycles have come a long way since 1973! They have disk brakes now. 5 or 6 speeds. Fuel injection. Four valves per cylinder and overhead cams. Alloy wheels. I could go on. Back in the 60s/70s friends of mine told me 2-strokes only really had an advantage on a dirt bike, because it revs up faster. They made big 2-strokes (Suzuki Titan 500, and the famous 3-cylinder 'Water buffalo', the GT750) but it was only a way to make a big engine cheaper. They pollute very badly because they don't burn all the fuel, as much as 1/3 of it just ends up in the air. And naturally they don't get very good gas mileage either!

Q:I want to buy a motorcycle and get my motorcycle license just as a car alternative. there are a few worries that are preventing me however:helmets: would I need to carry my helmet with me around everywhere I go? (do I need to wear motorcycle gear every time I go out and everywhere I go??)parking: would I need to chain it down in special bike parking?terrain limitations: I live on a fairly sloped hill, and i see mopeds on it all the time. would a motorbike have no problem?thank you for all your time and answers ! :D: Riding a motorcycle is a purely personal choice. In general, those that feel a need to ask aren't ready. Helmet: can be locked to the bike with the supplied helmet lock or an aftermarket one. When going out, it can be checked like a jacket (or with). Do you need to wear gear all the time? No, but most recommend it. The majority of all accidents occur close to home. (I got it a block from the house) Parking: If you are lucky enough to find motorcycle parking where you go, use it. Usually, the ignition and steering locks are sufficient. Chains are bulky, heavy, and can chip your paint easily. A disc lock is a much better idea (locks to brake disc, prevents rotation). Terrain: Any place a moped can go, most motorcycles can. Any place a car can go, a motorcycle can. For better answers to your questions, especially the one about if you should, enroll yourself in a Basic Rider's Course.

Q:The front (disc) brake shoes on my 1983 Yamaha Virago 920 are worn unevenly. One is at 90% the other is at 20%. The fluid seems fine, the brakes work okay. Clue- The rear brakes were worn out when I bought the bike a few months ago.: The caliper is stuck. Those brakes have 1 piston which pushes against the rotor and the whole caliper body can move slightly so that the pressure on both sides is even. The caliper can't move so therefore, the piston side pad is doing nearly all the work and is wearing away much quicker.

Q:Any females advice for learning to ride a motorcycle?: do not purchase a bike before taken the MSF Basic Rider Course. Take the class first and make sure its something you really want to do. DO NOT do it for anyone but yourself. I would rather spend $250 for the course before $15,000 for a new bike, that you might find you don't want. I know someone who's husband bought her a new Harley and neither knew how to ride. Since she has the bike she is doing what ever she can to learn. She has paid for the Basic Rider Course twice (still hasn't passed), plus spending $75 p/hr for private lessons. So far she has spend $950 just to try and ride this bike that she doesnt know if she wants or not.

Q:For the rear brake: Is this the procedure?1. hook up clear plastic tube to bleed valve.2. open valve.3. pump rear brake.4. close valve.5. release rear brake6. repeatIs this how you would do it?: Clean the reservoir lid and the caliper so nothing can fall in and contaminate it. Take the lid off the reservoir, check the level. Have a new bottle of brake fluid handy. Remove bleed nipple, check it is in good condition clean off any corrosion or replace, putting a blob of grease on the thread. Hook up clear plastic tube (preferably with one-way valve) to the bleed nipple have the other end in a jar (if it does not have a one-way valve pour some new brake fluid in the jar above the level of the bottom of the tube). Open the bleed nipple by one quarter to one half a turn. Depress the rear brake lever – making sure the level in the reservoir does not drop below the minimum level. Check for air bubbles. Keep depressing the lever until there are no more air bubbles (keep looking at the reservoir if you let the level drop you will have to start again). Release lever. Close bleed nipple. Replace cover on reservoir. Check it works properly before riding.

Q:Yesterday while riding my brand new yamaha dirt bike i had trouble understanding how to brake....My dad told me i had to hold the clutch and apply the brake gently ,and im trying to figure out if when i go to a complete stop do i shift back to first or apply more gas on the gear im currently on Please Help Thanks: You can either apply the clutch, come to a complete stop with the brakes, then downshift back to 1st. Or you can let off the throttle and use the engine to help you brake, but remember to downshift when the engine revs down to a lug or about 1500rpm if you have a tachometer. This is important because if the engine stalls and dies, the rear tire will lock up and skid. The first method is best for a quick stop, while the second is better for a gradual easy stop.

Q:i haven‘t been able to get the front brake working right. The caliper won‘t release all the way which causes the brake to drag. So far I have put a new caliper on and changed the brake fluid and bleed it but that still didn‘t solve the problem. If you could give me any input at all I would really appreciate it.: a material is said to be a good conductor of heat and electricity if it have a high linear expansivity to heat and low resistivity to electric current

Q:Any information on motorcycle statistics is helpful, same with cars, thanks!: Roughly the same as those you get when you compare horses to mass transit. To make an honest comparison of anything you have to only have one element on each aside of the equation. Adding variables screws up the math.

Q:i changed the front pads of my 400ex today and when i went to bleed the brakes i did it just as i would a car.i still have a very soft brake lever and the pistons on the calipers aren't compressing.what am i doing wrong: If you have already bled the breaksthen you still have a little air trapped in your system Pump your lever a few times and hold it inzip-tie your lever to your hand grip for the night.Check it out in the morningAny air will rise to the top and out your little vent holeMake sure in the morning your oil is upthenride it like you stole it. Next time you change your breakstake a screw driver in between your old pads and pry your old pads open as far as the will gotake them out and put in the newyour break rotor (disc_ should go between the new one's easy.That way you dont lose any oil.you dont have to mess with your bleeders.

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