grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100

grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100 System 1

grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc
Standard: E-MARK
Origin: China
Features:
1) Hardness: 180-240HB
2) Long service life
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection
4) 100% qualification
5) Low noise
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431.
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket

AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#
3102	3438	5361	5588	8978	31163	31353
3104	3441	5362	5590	8979	31164	31354
3106	3444	5364	5593	8980	31165	31355
3107	3445	5365	5594	8981	31166	31356
3108	3446	5366	5595	8983	31168	31357
3110	3451	5367	5596	8984	31169	31358
3111	3452	5368	5598	8985	31170	31359
3112	3455	5370	5599	8986	31172	31360
3114	3457	5371	5601	8987	31173	31361
3116	3458	5372	5606	8988	31174	31362
3117	3459	5373	5607	8989	31175	31363
3118	3460	5374	5610	8990	31176	31364
3120	3462	5375	5614	8991	31177	31365
3122	3464	5376	5617	8992	31178	31366
3123	3466	5377	5618	8993	31179	31367
3124	3467	5378	5703	8994	31181	31368
3125	3468	5379	5704	8995	31182	31369
3126	3469	5381	5712	8996	31184	31370
3130	3470	5382	8101	8997	31185	31371
3132	3471	5383	8105	8998	31186	31372
3133	3472	5386	8106	8999	31188	31373
3134	3477	5387	8108	31000	31189	31374
3136	3479	5388	8109	31001	31192	31375
3137	3480	5389	8124	31002	31193	31376
3138	3482	5393	8141	31003	31197	31377
3140	3483	5394	8146	31004	31198	31378
3141	3485	5395	8147	31005	31199	31379
3146	3487	5396	8160	31006	31201	31380
3150	3488	5397	8163	31007	31202	31381
3151	3489	5398	8171	31008	31203	31382
3152	3497	5399	8173	31009	31204	31383
3153	3498	5401	8179	31010	31205	31384
3154	3502	5404	8190	31011	31208	31385

grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100

Q:i am pushing dead air - it goes down to where it touches the muffler and has no holding power. i bought the motorcycle used a couple of weeks ago, it had just passed inspection. i drove it maybe 10 hours. i realized i was using the back brake too much to slow down - sometimes stopping without the front brake at all. do you think i screwed it up? i remembered briefly my teacher saying u have to use both brakes, or you‘ll either lock the front brake or destroy your back brake. of course, forgot all about this until i did it!! do u think that is what happened? will i need a new brake pad? can i make some adjustments to make it brake harder?: If you had bad brake pads on the back it would scrub and you would feel it, so if your not feeling that then check your brake fluid for the back usally you have two resivors one on the handle bars for front and one on the back for the back check it if its full press the brake lever all the way down three times and on the third hold it open release valve on the caliper to bleed the brake then close repeat three times then you should have great breaks

Q:Female motorcycle right handle has a brake is the front brake, right foot that there is a brake is the rear wheel brakes, usually when the brakes how to control it? Just getting the motorcycle did not take long, because the front brake with too many fell a few wrestling, is not uphill when the front brake, downhill when the press after the brake, What else to pay attention to: The front brake of the motorcycle is mainly used when the auxiliary half-slope is started. When you press the front brake while the ramp is starting, the car is not easy to slip. After the brakes are the main brake, in any case the rear brake is the main, the general driving when the brakes can be on the front brake is not required to press. But if you want to shorten the braking distance, you can use, but must be with the good, or easy to wrestling, and Oh ~!...

Q:I do not have a suzuki dealer near me, just a yamaha, and some general auto stores. Anyone know what oil I can use in the trans case? Keep in mind it is a 2 stroke. And don‘t tell me to use automotive oil because im not retarded.: Power 1 Racing 2T SUZUKI RM 250 (Motorcycles) 2 str. 2001 - Engine (2 str.) (32:1) Power 1 Racing 2T Gearbox MTX GEAR OIL (b) 0.8 Final Drive - Fork - (a) 0.5 Coolant Antifreeze 1.1 Brake Clutch Fluid Motorcycle Brake Fluid Brake Fluid DOT 4 Grease Points LM Grease a. Manufacturer's recommendation, REFER TO MAIN DEALER b. Alternative recommendations, Gear oils, 2 str.: 10W-50; 15W-40; 15W-50; 20W-40; 20W-50

Q:Changing motorcycle rubber brake lines to Stainless steel brake lines do they perform better then rubber brake lines. Is that change worth the money?: Better performance. Rubber hoses will swell/expand under braking pressure. The harder you clamp the binders, the more so. Steel brake lines won't expand, causing the otherwise lost energy to transfer to the brake caliper. Braided stainless lines still have a hose/liner inside, but the braiding cuts the expansion.

Q:Manual says I should only use the BMW brand brake fluid, but wouldn‘t another brand be fine? Also, what weight motor oil should I use?: Greetings, I think the car is NOT totaled as when a car is totaled it means the cost to repair the damage exceeds the actual value of the car. You mentioned that the steering wheel leans to the right, if it is that when the front wheels are straight and the steering wheel is off-set, then that could be an alignment problem which will need to be corrected by a wheel alignment specialist. Also, you said that above 60 MPH the steering shakes/vibrates, then you have a faulty front tire(s) or you will need to have both front tires balanced at the alignment specialist, which is done for high speed balancing, i.e. weights are added to the rim/wheel to reduce/eliminate the vibration. Please ensure that the correct air pressure is in both or all tires which is 28 PSI when cold.

Q:A motorcycle is moving at 32 m/s when the rider applies the brakes, giving the motorcycle a constant deceleration. During the 4.0 s interval immediately after braking begins, the speed decreases to 14 m/s. What distance does the motorcycle travel from the instant braking begins until it comes to rest?I‘m completely stumped. Anyone have a way to solve this?: Begins braking at a rate of 32 m/s and after 4 seconds it is going 14 m/s First, just find the difference between 32 and 14 which is 18 So, the bike decelerates 18 m/s in 4 seconds. Now, to find rate of deceleration divide 18 by 4 18/4 4.5 So the rate of deceleration is 4.5 m/s Now, go back and finish up. It begins braking at 32 m/s and comes to a rest at 0 m/s The difference from 32 to 0 is 32 32/rate of deceleration 32/4.5 7.111111111.s So, if you're rounding, the answer is 7.1 s I hope this helps!

Q:I bought a 2008 Kawasaki ninja 250r. I just notived there is some black dust (carbon/coalish color) under the exhaust pipe, what could that be?Also, the owner told me to run the motorcycle for 20 minutes every day, if I wont be riding it that day, any reason why? and do I have to do this?when I brake, do I need to pull in the clutch and then brake? or it doesnt matter?lastly, is there any way I could know when the last oil change/tune up was done? I wasn‘t given any maintenance records, but the oil level seems fine.Thx.: The carbon color is a byproduct of lean combustion. Not uncommon on today's engines. If you have a fuel injected bike, it's most likely OK. If it's a bike with a carb and an aftermarket pipe, you probably need to have the carb rejetted correctly. No, do not run the motorcycle every day if you are not going to ride. That is the most stupid advice I have every heard. Your bike will be just fine sitting there without running it for hours, days, even weeks. You can actually damage the bike over time by idling it without going out for a ride to completely warm up the whole drive train. Do not listen to the person who told you that about anything motorcycle. You need to pull in the clutch to change gears. Yes you can do clutchless shifts, but you risk damaging the transmission if you do one wrong. You can slow with the brake without pulling in the clutch to the point that the engine begins to lug, then you need to shift. If you are slowing to a stop, you can pull in the clutch and use the brake to come to a complete stop - shift down as you slow - you don't have to release the clutch every gear if you are going to use the brake to come to a stop. You need to be in first gear just before coming to a complete stop. No. The previous owner was an idiot. You need to just start fresh. Change the oil and start your own mileage countdown for the next change - 3000 miles or jus before winter storage if you don't ride that much.

Q:how do I replace the front and rear brake pads on a yahama v star motorcycle?: im sure your maunal says how or just ask the guy who you buy the pads from he should be able to tell you

Q:On a motocross bike, the FRONT brake supplies how much of the potential stopping power?: a multivitamin would be the best but any dark green leafy vegtable (spinach is best) is best!

Q:When im on my motorcycle i was taught to brake before entering a turn, which is what ive always done. i was also taught that if you try to slow down in the middle of a turn, your rear wheel will slide out from under you and cause a slide (ive seen it happen to a student).are there any techniques i can use to overcome my fear of sliding and brake during a turn carefully?: I believe most riders go through times when they become apprehensive about sliding out in a turn. It takes practice to develop confidence in the bike and your driving skills. Just braking in a turn won't slide out the rear tire: it depends on how hard you are braking, the angle of the turn, etc. What I've learned in years of riding and teaching rookies how to corner is to start with slow riding skills in a parking lot to get a feel for how far you can lean your bike before it falls. Then ride on open roads with sweeping curves to build confidence, finally going to tighter curves as confidence builds. As much as possible, slow before the curve, and accelerate (or hold a steady throttle) in the curve. The worst thing you can do it vary throttle and brake input up and down in a curve. That throws the bike's dynamics off. I've always felt is was better to have someone ridicule me for a slow rider in curves than feel badly for me as I lay broken at the edge of a curve.

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