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FAQ

Long story short, have a 2001 acura tl had a rough idle/ no start issue. figured out by disconnecting vaccuum from the throttle body the idle was fine with the TB pulling air through the disconnected hose port. The hose i disconnected leads to the purge valve solenoid. I removed it and it is closed (no air flow), restarted car with hose disconnected and solenoid still harnessed in (still closed). Just need more info on the function of this thing and what it should be doing.. Can i bench test it with +12V and ground on the two pins? Thanks in advance.

When okorder

Specify eight technical requirements that you would consider important, when deciding upon a particular control valve?

1] I assume that by control valve you mean a variable orifice valve, not an on/off valve. 2] An answerer to your other question listed Metallurgy, temperature, pressure and shutoff requirement To which I note that if you need a tight shutoff you should not trust a control valve to do that, but should add an on/off valve in series. Also, metallurgy covers corrosion requirements but not obviously so 3] To which I add: flow rate [or Cv] and pressure drop fail open or fail closed response time signal input [3-15 psi, 4-20 mA, 1-5V, etc] connections [ie, fitting type] packed vs sealed might need to look at hard seat materials and/or replaceable seats, to control erosion reliability, ease of maintenance, availability of spares, timing on that vendor permanence [ie, are they entering bankruptcy ?] Cost

So i was driving down the highway and my car just turned off. I turned the key but nothing. My lights were on and everything. I took it to a repair guy and he told me that the timing belt was broken, so i paid to have it fixed. Then he told me something about a compressioner or something, i paid for that, then he told me the valve was bent, so i was pissed and said i wouldn't pay. He was going to charge me about 550. I had already paid him about 250. and i think he was scamming me was I wrong? Does that sound right? Also how would I go about fixing?

check to see if the motor is a no-tolerance engine. You would bend a valve if you broke a timing belt. This is why Honda, Mitsubishi, and many others warn you to change the timing belt at about 60-75K miles. $250.00 for a timing belt installed is on the low side for cost.Call a dealer for the make of car and ask the service manager if the motor is a no-tolerance engine. If it is you will have more cost before the motor is running.

Just bought car used. It is an 88 Toyota Corolla Fx. It is leaking and loosing a lot of oil. The EGR valve is spraying pretty badly. All hoses are fine. Seems to be in the seal. Is this the possible fix I need to solve these problems? Cleaned and inspected engine for other leaks and found none. Please help. Very poor and highly motivated to fix this car up.

Hello, The EGR valve will not spray oil, It is an exhaust gas recirculation valve that does not have oil get to it!! Please add more info so we can better answer your question . Thanks for additional info. But I don't think you know what the EGR valve is. Engine oil should not be spraying from the EGR valve ! Maybe you are trying to describe another part? Also, You need to fix the wheel cylinder or caliper before you can bleed the brakes. Maybe you need a mechanic to assist you. Good luck !

non-return valves

..?..non-return valves..? I will assume that your 'non-return valves', are what is also known as check valves. Check valves allows flow in one direction only. These are used wherever you need to prevent backflow into the system, or to maintain a charged circuit with fluid, until you choose to unload(depressurize ) it. Now, why are they used in discharged lines of salt water, basically to prevent backflow....reason not known, here , requires usage info.

Grade seven, my teacher's a pain. She didn't even explain the 'sets', we just know what valves are in general. So.. which set of valves closes when the ventricles contract? Relax? Thank you so much!***10 POINTS***

Atrioventricular valves close when it relaxes and the lunar valves close when it contracts

Hey there in new england wth a blizzard on the way :(. I noticed a few weeks ago that my radiator in my bedroom was always cold. I have lived in this house for 11 years don't know why I am just noticing now. Anyway I discovered that the radiator valve in my room was closed. I shoudl have know it was closed for a reason. I turned it on Wednesday night. everything was fine until this morning. It started leaking thru the celing. my husband tightened it turned it back off and it was fine for a while until it started leaking again! I have since turned the heat off. What can I do now? Did I mention we are bunkered down for a blizzard here? I won't get a plumber out here for days and I fear with the blizzard winds if I keep the heat off the pipes will freeze! Help any suggestions? why didn't it stop leaking after we turned the valve off again??? I am so freaking out right now!

look to see if there is a packing nut on the valve, if that is where it is leaking tighten it . when you opened the valve you filled the radiator , it may just be draining back out.i would turn the heat back on for a coming blizzard . good luck

1999 Mercury Cougar in awesome shape no engine problems, and has just under 86000 miles. I bought it recently and the check engine light came on out of nowhere and I realized It was an EGR issue the code was p0401 insufficient flow. I had a mechanic replace the solenoid valve as well as clean all of the carbon gunk off the valve and the light was off, then suddenly POPPED back on, making me really nervous and kind of upset. So today I had a few errands to run and I said I wasn't going to go get it read again until tomorrow, and it just Went off. So Is the car just very sensitive to things and is that why it goes on and off? Or is something wrong? I'm a student who really wants to keep this car nice like I bought it.

Ford vehicles commonly have this problem. Their is a sensor that determines the flow of the EGR. This sensor is called Differential Pressure Feedback Sensor or (DPFE). originally the cougar's came with a plastic DPFE they became brittle from the high engine bay temperatures. There was a newer revised part that is now metal to withstand high heat. 86k miles is roughly when you see them go bad. 9 times out of 10 on a ford the sensor is bad not the ExhaustGasRecirculation Valve. I say replace the sensor, or pay to have it diagnosed properly. And a loose gas cap will give you a gross evap leak code not a egr code.