• Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump

Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Self Priming End Suction Pump (Self Priming Pump,Base Plate Pump)


1. Main Features:
   a) Compact structure
   b) Attractive design
   c) Low noise, steady performance
   d) No leakage
   e) High concentricity of components
   f) Easy installation, easy maintenance


2. Applications:
   a) Petroleum Industry
   b) Chemical Industry
   c) Pharmacy and Health
   d) Environmental and Water treatment
   e)electroplating industry
   f)Environmental protection
   g)food service industry
   h)Printing and dyeing area
   i)textile industry, etc

3.Technical Parameter:
   a) Flow: 3.8- 200m³/h
   b) Head: 20-80m
   c) Operating Temperature:-20 - 100°C
   d) Shaft Sealing : Gland / Mech. Seal
   e)Motor: Closed, externally ventilated
   f)Insulation class: Class F i
   g)Protection class: IP54/IP55
   h)Duty: Continuously rated

4.Packing

All of our products are packed in plywood cases to ensure the safety of products. You can also have special requirements for the package. You may just tell us your demand and we will arrange everything from the initial consultation to the delivery of your chosen port anywhere in the world timely.

Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Do you have pumps with grinders?

Yes, the WQ models.

2       How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


Q: I have 2004 Chevy Trailblazer V8 4x4 that the water pump went out on. Does anyone know how long it takes to change it and where it is located? The dealer wants $750.00 to fix it. I really don't want to get riped off.
2004 Trail Blazer
Q: My husband has a 78 t-bird and it has steam comming out of it. He replaced the water-pump 2 to 2 1/2 yrs ago. The warranty was only for 1 year should it need to be replaced this soon?
there is no set time a water pump will last, I have seen them last 200,000 miles and I have seen them last 4,000 miles.
Q: I was looking at a water pump and the specs said 110 Foot Max. Total Head and 20 Foot Max. Suction Lift. Can someone please explain this? Thanks.
I have two ponds, one that is always full and one that is always low. They are 550 ft apart and there is a change in upward elevation of about 35ft. What pump is needed to allow me to transfer water from the lower pond to the upper pond?
Q: I need to replace a water pump
Just take off the fan belt, unbolt the water pump and fit the new one. Make sure the gasket area is clean and use a new gasket. If it has the fan on it, take that off first.
Q: I could get a 1994 Camaro, v6, no rust, automatic, excellent condition for $1200. THe ony thing is that it needs a water pump. Is it worth the buy? How much other damage could have been done with the water pump damaged? and how hard is it to replace the water pump?
Tell them you'll give him a thousand and buy it. Check the coolant bottle and look for sludge. Check oil for milkshake looking oil. These motors are known for bad intake and head gaskets and that is not as easy as a water pump.
Q: I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!
Those are widely used where hand or bicycle or animal power is common. It meets all your criteria except pressure. Depending on how much pressure you want/need a stand pipe or elevated tank might meet that requirement. If pressure is necessary, then go with a Double Acting Piston Pump and filter the suction. I recommend a Graded Sand Bed over the suction. I designed public water supply pumping stations drawing from rivers for years. Filtering the suction is no big deal.
Q: My water pump is starting to leak. The shops are quoting $250- $300 to replace but I can buy a water pump at the auto parts store and install myself for less than $100 but I don't know what all is involved with this repair or if I should try (my only experience with car repair up to now is recently replacing the alternator). If anyone has done this please let me know what you think. thanks
It's a rear wheel drive car with the water pump mounted on the front of the engine toward the radiator. So if you go to the library any read the chiltons or motors manual procedures on how to replace the water pump, you probably have to remove the radiator fan blade assembly to get at the water pump. Some fan belts will also have to be removed. You can end up doing the job twice if the new water pump gasket doesn't seal properly due to antifreeze leaking out of the engine block while your installing the new gasket and sealer. Park the car with the engine facing up a hill to prevent that. I'd have it done at a shop. It's worth paying a shop unless you really want to get into major repairs.
Q: My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?
If it is pumping sand there is a problem of course. The pump is generally hung about 10 feet from the bottom of the well ( Ex: if the well is 120 feet the pump would hung be at 110 feet). In your case it may have been closer to the bottom and picking up the sand. There is a possibility that recently another well has been dug in the area and disturbed sediment has gotten in the water. It sounds like you aren't using this as drinking water or the sand would have been dropped in the pressure tank and you wouldn't see it. If it is a seasonal use well ( like for your garden or lawn in spring through fall) this debris might wash out after a few uses.
Q: My water pump broke on my volkswagen golf tdi so I took it to a garage. He charged me ?250 for a new pump and fitting. When I came to collect it he showed me the broken water pump, when I asked if I could keep the broken pump that was taken out of my car he said that there would be quite a quot;heftysurcharge for me to take it with me because they have to send them back to Volkswagen. I thought it was a bit strange. Is that normal?
What you're talking about is what we in America call a Core charge. If I buy a new water pump for my car and take it home to do it myself, the pump is going to cost me $80. There is also a core charge of another $20 from the parts store that I use. So I'm paying $100 to take home my water pump. However, if I were to have brought in my old pump to exchange it...then I would only pay the $80 for the part. Or if I took it home at $100 and then returned the old one after I got my car fixed...then they'd give me the the $20 back. The reason for this is that a lot of companies can recondition these parts and make them as good as new. This is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying new components to make new parts. Say a water pump is leaking only because the seals in it are failing. They can take it apart, replace the seals (and anything that looks like it needs replacing, clean it all up, and put it back together. And that reconditioned water pump (which has a warranty that's the same as the new part and often times better) would usually be sold for $60. So likely that's what's going to happen to it. It'll go back to VW so they can re-manufacture it and recycle it for use in another car that needs a water pump.
Q: How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
the only way to check it is to have a well pump service pull the pump and check the verticle lines. they tend to rust out. you can have them replaced by pvc lines now. when our pump went out we had all of the lines replaced because several of the galvanized lines had pin holes in them

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