• QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality System 1
  • QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality System 2
  • QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality System 3
QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality

QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

Basic Info. of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

Model NO.:200QW350-20-37; 500QW2800-22-250

Pump Casing Combined:Verticaljoint Surface Pump

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Vertical Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Capacity:Lower Than 3750 M3/H

Head:Lower Than 60 M

Export Markets:Global


Description of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

QW type submersible sewage pump is developed based on imported advanced technology abroad. It has the advantages of high efficiency, not easy to enlace, no clogging, auto-coupling and auto-control
The advantages of QW pump are its small volume, compact structure and high efficiency, with products more than 15kW. It can detect the water leakage, overheat, overload protection. And as the requirements of user, an auto-protection control cabinet which has liquid level control shall be equipped.
Installation type of QW type pump has auto-coupling installation and movable installation.
QWN type submersible sewage pump is developed based on QW type pump, absorbing advanced technology abroad.

Application Area of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

QW type pump is mainly used in urban construction, industry, hospital, building, hotel, restaurant and so on. It is used to transport silt, urban sewage containing solid granule and long fiber.
QWN type pump is mainly applied in municipal engineering, steel plant, power plant, mines and some other wear-resistant sites for discharging sludge and waster water containing solid particles.


Performance Range of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

QW
Outlet diameter: ≤ 600mm(2"-20")
Capacity: ≤ 3750m3/h
Head: ≤ 60m
Speed: 740r/min 970r/min 1450r/min 2980r/min
Matched power: 1.5-270kW

QWN
Outlet diameter: ≤ 600mm
Capacity: ≤ 3750 m3/h
Head: ≤ 60 m
Speed: 1430r/min 2480r/min
Matched power: 3-220kW


FAQ

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.


QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality

Q:Im replacing the water pump on my cougar but i ran into a snag. I got the pump unbolted but to take it off, i need to unbolt a bracket that goes behind the power steering pump pulley. I cant figure out how to get that pulley off to take off the bracket. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
remove radiator,remove fan blade,you may have to move the a/c condenser and or compressor. and move the alternator out of the way. scrape gasket off engine block. glue new gasket to water pump and install in reverse. be sure not to over tighten the bolts.
Q:how can i choose a water pump that is truely on demand as in shuts off when not needed automaticly i purchaced one that claimed it was a quot;demandpump is mine defective or not a true on demand pump?
RV section is probably under cars and transportation, others. On demand pumps are quite common and used in many RV's.
Q:And would a water pump off any 302/5.0 fit the 1985 F-150 302/5.0 whether it was from a Mustang ,or Crown Victoria
they should, the best way is cross reference the part go auto zone page check the part numbers see if they match
Q:I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!
Sounds like it's waterlogged. That's what it's called when the water and the air in the resevoir tank mix, and the volume of air gets so small as to not be able to provide any decent compression with which to push water through the system. At that point, any time you open a fixture, the pressure drops enough to turn on the pump, and when you turn off the pump, if it's just right, it will turn off and then back on, then off, then on, back and forth till you shut it off and it can set and stabilize, till you need water again. The solution is to reintroduce a sizeable amount of air back into the top of the tank. If it's an older tank, without a bladder, (identified by the small bulge around the center of the tank and either a blue or rust color), then the best way is to simply drain the tank and restart the system. That way it will trap all the air in the top of the tank and you'll have enough pressurized air to push a gallon or two of water out, before the pump needs to kick on again. If it's the bladder type, with the bulge, then the bladder has blown and you're, in effect, working with a standard resevoir tank now, except that it will have an air valve in the top like a bicycle tire, so you can pressurize it with an air tank. If so, open some fixtures, start pressurizing the top of the tank and blow all the water out of the system. Once it's dry, put about 20 lbs. of pressure in the tank and start up the pump. You should be good to go.
Q:I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.)
I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
Q:25KW what is the lift of the pump?
2 floor, the following formula is not accurate, the margin of safety is too large.N=Q (L/s), *H (m), /102/ (0.6~0.85), /0.85As follows: for reference only: (pump flow * pump lift) / (367* pump efficiency) * pump motor power safety margin (constant general take 1.1-1.2) = pump power.Unit: flow M3/H, head MNow you know the power of the pump, but you do not know the efficiency of the pump and flow, so the pump head can not be calculated.Can the normal operation of pump flow velocity detection using ultrasonic detection equipment, combined with the calculation of pump diameter of the flow and shaft power testing equipment can use foreign advanced measure pump, electric motor with related input parameters to calculate the pump efficiency. Then use the formula above to calculate the pump head.The simple way is to ask the designer directly about the design parameters.
Q:What are the quota items for the complete pump installation?
Pump installation / anchor bolt installation anchor bolt hole, fill oar vibration cushion installation
Q:I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Furnace Water Pump
Q:Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
If okorder look up the part there is a tab for instructions. otherwise when you pick up your pump by a repair manual they run about $17. Oh I live in Wisconsin if a case of beer works lol. Run the car with the radiator cap off and put your finger in the water. If water doesn't change temp it's your pump. if it gets alot warmer and overheats it's thermostat.
Q:ive just replaced my water pump as i know it wasnt in good shape and was a big cause of my problems. but the new water pump also seems to make a noise once in a while like its dry and there isnt anywater or its having a hard time. the head is good and has an extra thick headgasket on it. my guess is i have a clogged radiator and it would sound reasonable as i have used head gasked sealant in the radiator and it has prob clogged parts of it. the other symptom is afater about 4 hrs of continuous driving it starts to over heat if im doing 70 bor more but if i drop back down to 65 it seems to stable out or in many cases go down all together. anyone else had thes symptoms. and will a water pump make noise if there isnt anywater to pump.
what is the 22r fitted in as most run a thermo fan assy which is fitted to the front of the water pump if you have this then most likely the thermo is either just about to seize or it's still turn's then its in freewheel mode the best way to check is when the motor is cold check and se if you have a thermo fan fitted if so out one blade at 12 oclock and spin with one hand if the blade goes down past 3 oclock then you will need to open the coupling this is a simple job you will see 8 phillips head screws remove all and crack open the coupling but before this is done go to your local toyota dealer and purchase 1x 08816 10001 silicone empty this into the coupling and close this will fix your problem

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