• Long Shaft Pump LC Series System 1
Long Shaft Pump LC Series

Long Shaft Pump LC Series

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General Description

LC series vertical long-shaft pump is a newly developed product with both homeland and overseas advanced experience in design and manufacture. It is used to deliver clear water, sewage with certain solid particles (such as iron scrap, sand, coal powder etc.) and industry waste water and seawater with corrosive. The temperature of liquid can not be above 80℃. It is widely used in original water works, waste water factory, metallurgy and steel industry (especially suitable for delivering oxygenation iron sheet water in swirl pool), power station,mine, civil project and farmland etc.

Performance Range
Capacity: 60-8400m3 /h
Head: 12.5~94.5m

Instruction of pump type
300LC2-50A
300: Outlet diameter is 300mm
LC: Vertical long-shaft pump
2: Impeller numbers (No indication, when only one impeller)
50: Max head is 50m
A: A,B,C separately represents that outer diameter of impeller is changed the first, the second and the third time.

Structure
The type LC vertical long-shaft pump is installed with single foundation, its inlet is vertical downward and outlet is horizontal. The pump and the motor are directly connected. The rotation of pump rotor is counter clockwise looking from the motor to the pump; the main features are as following
1. It is fine designed with hydraulic design software. It makes impeller and other wearing parts have a long life because of anti-abrasive impeller and Diffusor. The pump is not only reliable, safe, steady but also saving energy.
2. There is filter in pump inlet with proper hole, this can not only prevent impurity entering pump to damage pump but also decrease inlet loss and increase pump efficiency.
3. Impeller adopts balance hole to balance axial force. There is replaceable seal ring in front and back cover board of impeller to protect impeller and pump.
4. Pump middle shaft, water column and guard pipe are multi-burl, middle shaft uses technology of sleeve coupling. Water pipe can be more or less for different inundated depth according to user’s requirement. Impeller and Diffuser are multi-stage for different head.
5. Water pipe is connected by flange with guide bearing in its middle. Pump guide bearing adopts ethane or THORDON bearing, it can also adopt rubber (when the temperature of liquid is over 55℃).Shaft is protected by guard column, the guide bearing should be supplied with exterior cooling lubricating water, while delivering sewage.
6. The remaining axial force of pump and the weight of rotor parts are borne by thrust bearing in motor seat or motor with thrust bearing. The thrust bearing is lubricated by dilute oil and cooled with exterior water. The thrust bearing can have element for monitoring temperature.
7. Pump shaft seal adopts packing seal, there is replaceable shaft sleeve in shaft seal and guide bearing to protect shaft and it is convenient to adjust axial location of impeller by nut in bearing parts upper end or pump coupling.
8. Pump can be equipped with controller which can automatically start and stop pump according to liquid level, give an alarm for over loading and control many pumps in long-distance. There is automatic exhaust system for pump with diameter over 500mm.

Q:I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!
We have owned Honda's for years, including three 90's Civics. We have had the timing belts changed by the dealer also - also the cheapest price - and they have always recommended changing the tensioner and the water pump while in there. The timing belt is such a critical piece of equipment that is should be changed on schedule. The new belts go much longer than the old belts. But it's only a hundred more at most to have the water pump replaced at the same time so make them do it. If you water pump goes out in another 20000 miles, the labor charge to get to it will be 400 or 500 bucks. Most dealerships will do the water pump for parts cost markup if they are also doing your timing belt. You can also negotiate your price with a dealership. Try it. If they won't budge, find a new dealer.
Q:I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
Well yes it wiould , powerful pumps need more electric power so check that the generator can supply the power needed by the pump
Q:i have a 1993 chevy cavalier z24 3.1 what all do i need to do to get the water pump off and replace it
I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck
Q:I own a Camaro 1995 V6 3.4L automatic, it was diagnosed that the water pump was leaking and I was going to take it in on Saturday 3/1/08. But this morning I drove it and it seem that the car is losing power the RPM goes all up to 4-5 thousand to make a speed change. The car seems to stall like if it gets stuck the RPM goes up and eventually the next speed kicks in. I will be taking the car in tomorrow 2/27/08 to see whats wrong but I was hoping maybe someone knows whats wrong so that I can have an idea before someone tries to take advantage of me. I do know that the car started leaking water/coolant more than before after that little drive in the morning.The car is very well kept oil change is always on time .I always make sure that the water and the oil is level. transmission fluids are clean. I do know that the EGR Valve needs to be replaced. (hope this info helps)thank you
You may have got it hot and blown a head gasket. That would take away the power as it got hotter.
Q:All water pump have diferent caracteristics, but it is imposible to overcome a certain hight...what is that hight and why?
The width of the pipe and the force of the pump both play an important rule. Given you have two pipes of different widths and the same pump, the thin pipe will take up water to a higher height. Plants for example have xylem (tiny water conducting tubes) that allow even the highest leaves to be watered.
Q:I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week
2000 Ford Ranger Water Pump
Q:Hi, I need a 12/24v dc submersible water pump that can pump up to 15m but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Any help would be more than appreciated!
It's going to be hard to get any DC pump tht can pump 15m (45+ feet). Get and inverter and get a 115v/220v AC pump to do the job. Those are much more plentiful. I know it's more to buy and install, but it is what it is.
Q:How many lift pumps should be used for 100 meters tall buildings?
35m lift around. HVAC pump lift is generally between 5~50m, the selection of the head is mainly to see the difference between water pressure. As head of 35m as an example, if the inlet height of 60m, so the theory of height =60+35=95m, if all pipe closed air conditioning water system, and resistance of the equipment for water is equal to the pressure difference is equal to the pump head to choose your height, and out of the water is the same, the resistance loss of lift all into the water. The calculated resistance loss is needed to pump lift. The resistance component (1) chiller resistance at 60-100kpa (2) water collector resistance in 120-200kpa (3) 20-50kpa (4) air terminal equipment body resistance is generally not less than 40kpa so 100m building the resistance calculation of estimated value = (1) 80kp+ (2) chiller resistance pipe, the collector resistance (140kpa+ 3) air terminal equipment 40kpa+ (4) body resistance 50kp=310kpa safety factor of 10% 320x1.1=341kpa H= P/ (head of pressure water density * acceleration of gravity g =352000/ (10m) X9.8 =34.8m fand) so we head for 35 meters
Q:Water is leaking from the front of my car, on the right where the radiator is located. only thing is that its not leaking a lot, just a little.... but people keep telling me that my timing belt is going to go out and that i will be stranded!. i will like to know the cost of both the water pump and timing belts for my 2001 PT Cruiser please.
replace water pump timing belt pt cruiser
Q:House has bad mains pressure, so previous owner installed a quot;Holding Tankwhich stores water from the mains, before pumping it into the house for the internal tanks.However, after some recent plumbing work when the mains was turned off, it's running a little weird. The pump seems to be constantly running, although at a very low level, and some times when the taps/fawcets are opened, they seems to be nothing for up to 30 seconds (only air), and then the water rushes out. Same thing for toilet/WC cisterns..Any advice/pointers appreciated.CheersJM
If the possibility exists then relocating the pump below the level of the water source prevent air entering the pump. Having leaks in pipes and seals will let in air all the time and should be corrected. Many centrifugal pumps have a priming hole that is on top to fill the pump with water if they are not self priming but you need to make sure that the pump does not drain empty while closing the hole and starting the pump. Some pumps have a priming tank that is filled with water and then the opened to the priming port, these can be used with the pump already running and will collect the air bubles from the pump while it is starting. Positive displacement and self priming pumps create sufficient suction/vacuume to draw the colum of water intot the pump to get going and if these fail it is due to excess height above the suction water level or leaks in pipes or seals.

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