• Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger System 1
  • Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger System 2
  • Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger System 3
Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger

Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Gasoline gravel pump(ISO9001)

1. Specification

Size: 25mm-450mm

Capacity: max. 3400m3/h

Head: max. 120m

Particle size: max. 260m

2. Material: metal A05, A07, A33, A49 etc 

3. Features:

1. Horizontal, cantilevered, centrifugal, single stage slurry pump

2.Long bearing life: The bearing assembly is with large diameter shaft and short overhang.

3. Wear resistant and anti-abrasion wet parts: A05, A07, A33, A49 and rubber etc. They are completely interchangeable with each other

4. Easily replaceable liners, Liners are bolted to the casing.

5. Easy adjustment of impeller: An impeller adjustment mechanism is provided below the bearing housing.

6 Discharge direction can be positioned at intervals of 360 degrees.

7. Simple maintenance throat-bush: the mating face of the throat bush is tapered, so the wear is reduced and removal is simple.

4.  Widely application: 

They are designed for handling abrasive, high density slurries in the metallurgical, mining, coal, power, building material and other industrial departments.

Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger

Horizontal Centrifugal Dredge Pump for Dredger




5. FAQ:

1       Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

2       Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

3       If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.





Q:A 0.13hp electric motor on a water well pumps water from 30.23m below the surface. The density of water is 1.0 kg/liter. How many kg of water does the motor pump in 2.20hr?
It is known that 1 hp = 746 watts, so 0.13 hp = 97 watts = 97 Joules/s The amount of work to lift 1 kg water a vertical distance = 30.23 m = mgh mgh = (1)(9.81)(30.23) = 296.6 J no. of seconds in 2.20 hr = (2.2)(3600) = 7920 s total work output of a 0.13 hp pump in 2.2 hr if 100% efficient = (7920)(97) = 768,240 J no of kg lifted by 100% efficient pump/motor in 2.2 hr = 768,240/296.6 = 2590 kg ANS
Q:I getting some work done to my like replacing the timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket and the water pump gasket...the mechanic I talked to said I need to replace this as well; my thing is the water pump is fine..should I take his advice?
well, since they gotta take all that crap off to change the gasket, I would, it's cheap insurance..
Q:The water pump gasket in my '98 Forester (130k) recently began to leak, and I will be replacing it in the next couple days. I noticed a stream of bubbles in my overflow container, though, and am wondering if it might be bad head gaskets making the air bubbles. The bubbles only appear after the engine is warmed up, like after a drive around town - there aren't any bubbles when the engine is cold.Is it possible that these air bubbles are coming from the leaking water pump? I hope so, because I'd much rather replace the pump than the head gaskets!
I have yet to witness a leaky water pump suck air into the cooling system . If you are seeing bubbles in your radiator after the vehicle heats up see if the temperature is also higher [the hot gasses will heat up your coolant and eventually can push your antifreeze to the reservoir tank ] it can result in boil over.I strongly believe you have a bad head gasket that has not entirely blown yet Have the compression checked per cylinder,and for water getting into your oil (it would become a milky brown and become frothy a little bit) if that is all ok, then maybe just maybe a pump sucking air is occurring, though I have never seen it or herd of it before in my entire life.
Q:I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.
Use an RTV sealer, It is black in color, works the best i have found. Now you put some spit on your fingers, i know sounds silly but it will keep the silicone from sticking to your skin. then put the silicone on your index and thumb, and work the sealer into the paper gasket. This will cause it to have a skin on both sides offering the best seal you can get. Now be sure that there isn't any moisture or chalky corrosion on mating surfaces. Not that it is too big a deal with the moisture , but i have watched guys not clean up the (corrosion) surfaces which mate and they ended up redoing the job.Hope this helps. P.S. I've never had a come back for my waterpumps and I'm well over 50 now. This method is tested and true.
Q:I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!
Just adding a little more info to Corkeys list. Your foot valve could be stuck open and the water is draining back to the well. You will have to pull up the well line and replace the foot valve.
Q:Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?
Yes, there could be a hole in radiator, or in hose/s to/from radiator. Have it repaired, ASAP. Experience over the years have taught that 'radiator repair' liquid does not work.
Q:Hi all, I went on vacation and forgot to turn my water heaters to vacation! When I returned the water was cold coming through the faucet. After some investigation I realised the water heater pump had tripped the trip switch on the main electric panel. I reset it and thought all would be fine. Now it is OK for a day or two and then it trips the electric panel again. Any Ideas on what is the matter and how I might fix it? The water heaters themselves are fine and are burning all OK. Many Thanks!
Your problem could be in the breaker itself. It is possible the breaker is bad and needs replaced. Usually if a heating element burns out it will not tripp the breaker. If an element has burned out you can still use the water heater but your water will not be as hot and will not last as long when running the hot water because it is only heating at 110 instead of 220. If you have knowledge about electricity and have a tester, you can test the elements to see if they are working or not. Make sure you have the breaker to the heater shut off before you try testing the elements. Take the two wires off the element and with the tester check and see if shows any resistance on the test meter. If it shows resistance the element is most likely ok. Check the second element the same way. If you find one with no resistance on the tester then that element could be the problem. Not always, but most of the time the lower element will be the one burned out. Your description doesn't sound like a thermostat problem. New elements are not expensive and you can get them at your local hardware stores, Lowe's or Home Depot stores. If you want to change them out yourself, you will need to drain the water heater to remove the elements. You will also need a wrench (socket) to take the elements out because they screw into the water heater. Take the old elements with you when you go to get new ones so you make sure to get the right elements. To put the new elements in just reverse the procedure. Always make sure before you do anything to shut the breaker off to the water heater. If the new elements does not correct the problem the breaker would be the next thing to look at.
Q:HiThe well in my house is around 60 feet(20 meter). And the tank is 10 meter above the ground. My pump is Kirloskar Jet 1.5HP . It use to fill 500 Liter tank in 20 minutes. But now a days it is taking around 45 minutes to fill in. The pump is around 10years old. But it sounds good. Is it a problem with Pump or something else like Foot valve, Pipe, Pressure adjustment etc? . Do I need to change the pump? Which one is best suit for my well?. Submersible or Jet or something else?
Jet pumps aren't particularly efficient, and at 10 years of age, it could be worn. However, the water table might be dropping, too (this is happening in a lot of places), and that alone could explain the longer time. Submersible pumps are much for efficient but more expensive to install.
Q:My husband has a 78 t-bird and it has steam comming out of it. He replaced the water-pump 2 to 2 1/2 yrs ago. The warranty was only for 1 year should it need to be replaced this soon?
there is no set time a water pump will last, I have seen them last 200,000 miles and I have seen them last 4,000 miles.
Q:I have a well that is 6inch and down 250 ft. It use to be used to water our grove. The submersible pump went bad and I had it pulled and capped. I was wondering since the water level in the pipe is around 6 feet down, can I install an above ground jet pump to feed my house? Could I just go down around 30 feet and pump with the above ground jet pump instead of using the submersible pump? tks for any help..
You should have a local engineer or qualified contractor take a look. Even if you can get it to work (you'll have to consider the NPSH Net Positive Suction Head rating of the pump, since you're still pulling the water.) it may not be acceptable per code. What's more, since the well was used for irrigation before, it's possible it was installed to comply code only to the extent of irrigation and not for potable use.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Related keywords